2001 Subaru Forester - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

A long list of possible causes including low fuel pressure and a faulty throttle position sensor.

Vac leak? check o2 sensor wireing & plugs, Also visualy look at all wireing espesially HT leads, Batry red + plastic cover, Washer bottle lid (Mice love subarus especialy eating these bits & other sensor wires) Also look at plastic bits such as air box for theirfootprints or poo. I don't know where you are but I am in the country & this is a big problem here

I would have a smoke test down on your evap system to see if u have a leak somewhere or bad gas cap.

fuel filter

Have you checked to see if the cylinder is getting fuel, the injector may be bad or the wiring to it or the PCM

Not overly familiar with this car but usually not. They put a small amount of grease between the wheel and hub to avoid rust and it creates a vacuum almost like glue. Take a bar or your biggest screwdriver and pry on your wheel spoke for leverage as not to damage your disc or caliper It seems strange but it will pop off. My explored and Yukon do the same thing.

subarus` are bent on safety ,there has to be a reset,,,,?

Open the assembly and dry it. I would do so in full sun on a in low humidity and add a clear silicone sealant around the wire connection harness and around the rim of the light cover. The one around the light cover should be thin. If it is still happening, dry it again and place a small amount of baking soda in the assembly. It will settle to the lowest point and should absorb moisture.

Just to let you know that the location of the fuel pump is behind right rear seat back,under carpet panel,you have a leak there

Wipe it down clean and watch for the origin of the leak. May need to drive it awhile. Not that many places for oil to leak...valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil filter gasket, drain plug, front and rear crankshaft main seals (but these would be from center of engine), timing cover gasket seal...Look carefully, and you'll probably spot it. Good luck.

Replace the PCV valve and check for restriction make sure the pcv has vacuum and is working. A little bit of residule is not a problem unless it completely saturated. if its is completely saturated check the oil level and use the proper oil filter and proper weight.For now lets not get alarmed.

you may just need a good tune up and a new fuel filter. worse case senerio is you will need a new fuel pump.

The manufacturer recommends replacement of the timing belt at 105,000 miles.Due to the high mileage interval and the large amount of labor involved, I highly recommend that when you replace the timing belt, also replace the timing belt component kit and the water pump. The timing belt component kit consists of the timing belt idler and tensioner pullies. The water pump is also driven by the timing belt. The failure of any one of these components will cause you to have to perform (and/or pay for) the same labor all over again because they will cause the new timing belt to come off. If you call a shop for an estimate of the cost for replacing your timing belt, make sure they include these items in the estimate. I have seen many shops that will quote you the price of replacing only the belt. This way they will look a lot cheaper than the honest shops that quote the entire job the first time. (Then when you are in the shop and they have your engine torn apart, they hit you with the rest of the story.)ALSO NOTE: The parts stores and the automotive information system that I use professionally, do not list the 2.5L engine as an interference engine, But I can tell you from experience that they have been known to bend valves if the timing belt breaks or comes off while the engine is running. (that is what an interference engine does) Another HUGE reason to protect your investment by replacing all of the components listed above.

You only need to change them if you are having problems such as miss firing engine etc.

Ok.. the p0328 is in fact a bad knock sensor. I would suggest that someone replaced it incorrectly or the wrong one.. maybe even the wrong part.

p0442 is a small leak in some part of the evap system. Faulty gas cap can cause this but if it was not there before I would suggest the shop knocked something loose or cracked a hose during their repair.

p0456 is a large leak in the same evap system. Likely related to the p0442.

Good luck.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action, please check the bulbs for it can be blown. If the bulbs are good then it can be just a blown fuse for the tail light.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one

the knock sensor is under the manifold on the right side. It has a bolt that holds it in place and usually a small white plug under the air inlet on the throttle body

Hello...i'm here to help you, but need a bit more information please. Is the check engine light on in your Subaru? If so, do you know what the DTC codes are that caused it to come on? When you say "2 flooding cylinders" does that mean those 2 cylinders are not firing and the spark plugs are wet with gasoline? What 2 cylinders are they? I don't think the problem is ECM related. Reply back and i can give you some suggestions on where and what to troubleshoot.

common subaru problem relating to a leaking fuel line fitting on top of the engine under the hood. you are going to need someone with some mechanical prowess to fix it. take a gander at this website, has pictures http://****.com/fuelline/fuelline.html

Posibly a short in the wiring from a door switch. Try each one with the rest of the doors closed until you find it. You should be able to remove the switches from the door pillars.