1999 Subaru Forester - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It sounds like the control arm bushing is probably cracked or broken. Unfortunately a clunking while braking can be a lot of issues, but I bet it is coming from the control arm bushing.

It has 2. One is backside of transfer case and the other is on top of transfer case.

There are some 1W surface mount resistors on the circuit board for this clock. Two are labeled 300 and one is labeled 510. One or more of the solder joints for these resistors has cracked. This is a known manufacturing defect. Re-solder the ends of these resistors and the clock will work fine.

I had this problem. This happens alot on these clocks. The problem is usually a bad solder connection to one or more components on the clock board. Can easily be fixed using a $8 soldering iron from Radioshack.

Here is a link with detailed instructions:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/oh-no-my-clock-doesnt-work-3350/

Change the gasket is a must. You don't want antifreeze mixing with your engine oil. The antifreeze is carrosive to the engine bearing. The other thing to is if your radiator hose is soft and lod, they can and will collapse ristricting the flow of antifreeze.
Last to look at would be a weak water pump and you are going to have to change that.
 Start with changing the radiator hose since it's the cheapest. Keep an eye on the oil antifreeze to make sure you aren't have the two mix. 
Change the intake manifold gadket soon as posibel.
Good luck and hope this helps.

Best thing to do is get on the phone and call an auto parts store and get a price on the parts you want to replace, than bump that up about 10% more or less witch is most likely a shop will do, and then take that and add the labor, witch averages around 60 to 70 bucks per hour at a independent shop and 80 to 100 bucks per hour at a dealer. They will chg. at least 4 hours. remember this is only a gessament and everyone chg. different, but its someware in the ball park. Depending on what the parts cost 500 to 600 dollars is not out of the realm of posabilitys. whole lot cheaper if you do it yourself.

Hello, from the sounds of it you have a wheel bearing out. One way to usually verify that it is a wheel bearing is to drive down that road and swerve side to side to transfer the wieght of the vehicle back and forth. If it is a wheel bearing you will notice a change in the sound. If you hear a change in the sound figure out which side it is coming from. If when you swerve right and it's louder or makes more noice then it will be the left bearing and vice versa.

The nozzle could be plugged, pull the hose off if you can get to it and see if you get anything. If you do, you can try and blow the clog back with the hose still off. good luck, Chuck

first the door panel must be removed, once inside at the bottom of the door glass you will see it is attached to the regulator bar with to bolts, remove them separating the door glass from the regulator. (most of the time you must move the door glass up and down for the bolts to line up with an access hole so they can easily be removed...I assume your motor is shot and the bolts may be difficult to remove). the regulator has to be removed as the motor is attached to it. I'm not familiar with this one, but there is usually 3 or 4 bolts around the motor area and 2 bolts on the idler arm track, once removed the regulator should be free to wiggle out. remove the motor from the regulator.

Hope this helps.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801a483d

if the wipers were used to clear the snow then the speed controler may have over heater and the wiper assemberly will need to be replaced

did you buy it privately or a dealer w/ a warrantee? If you have a warantee, use it.If not start by changing the oil& see if that gives you any results.use the proper oil for Subaru,not a Quick Lube.

Check spark plugs and coils .

There should be a button I believe on the right side that says disk or cd. Just push that to toggle between cd and radio.

turn the wheel all the way to the right till you hit the end of it's travel... move it back and forth toward the end... shut off the motor and check the power steering level fill if needed... now do it toward the left side. check the fluid level when you are done... is the noise still there ?

Take it to a different shop, and ask them to check the wheel bearings and the cv joints for the clicking noise.

the small one is a vacum hose which opens the bov when the throttle shuts off, im guessing the one on there vents into the atmosphere and makes the pshhh noise.Your original one has a larger hose aswell which plumbs back into the intake pipe somewhere( there is probably a bung of some sort plugging the hole unless its and aftermarket pipe).i hope this helps.

In the boot mate!

You want to change from a standard transmission to an automatic transmission? You need a new transmission, clutch, gearshift, shift linkage just to start. You will be money ahead selling the car you have and buying one with an automatic.

has to be fuel /air / or electrical....otherwise internal mechanical ....is timing off?