1999 Subaru Forester - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try jerking the wheel back and forth while holding pressure on the key. If it doesn't free up this way, then you have a problem with the key and tumblers of the ignition lock and it will likely have to be replaced. Many late model vehicles require reprogramming of the security system when an ignition lock is changed.

Other possibilitie, Shift- Lock, or Shift-Park.... whatever they call it. Key won't unlock till the shifter is in "P". The electronics / mechanicals that controls this are broken. Not an easy DIY as you may have to take apart the dash.

Keep us updated.

this will give you some of the pro's and con's for that vehicle

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1998-to-2002-subaru-forester.htm

robert

find the inerta switch may be it the truck or inside behind the kickpanel

then big brain

BEST THING TO TRY (WHEN IT WAS STILL IN CAR) HOOK UP A PRESURE GAUGE TO TRANS. AND SEE IF IT HAS PRESURE. THANKS AND GOOD LUCK MOTOR62500.

You have to replace the pump then. With those symptoms you have only 1 option. You probably have an access hole somewhere in back of your vehicle that you can get to the pump through the inside of your car. If not you will have to drop the tank, just make sure you empty it first if that happens to be the case. Your car is new enough you should have access.

coil is electrical test coil first to see if its putting out power or is burnt out also check fed to coil that its not grounding or has a break in wiring

Take the other side out,and use that to match up new one

you may find the fuse diagram on the inside of the fuse box cover, try looking under the dash there might be another fuse box there.......hope this helps....cheers

Auto or 5-speed?
Subarus have CV axles in front and back. And a drive shaft from the center differential of the transmission to the back differential.

Yes, it could be the drive shaft or axle. If you turn the car hard left or right do you hear any noises - usually a 'clicking' sound? This is likely a CV axle in front.

Check the fluid in the transmission (Automatic) (info is in the Owner's Manual) to make sure it's full and/or gear oil in the front differential.

If it's an Automatic transmission, the fluid may need changed - NOT FLUSHED - if it has more than 30K miles since last changed.
GL,
TD

Check the clutch pedal.If the grinding noise increases after you press the clutch pedal then its related to clutch problem.But if it decreases after you press the clutch pedal then this noise is related to transmission gears.Let of the gas in every gears and check,if the noise is only if first and second gear or in all gear.If the noise goes away in third and forth gear and only occurs in higher gears then,the main shaft pilot bearing inside the input shaft gear has to be checked.Check the teeth of the gear,If any of the teeth is cracked then that particular gear has to be replaced.The problem is related to transmission or clutch. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

You might be able to order one from a car dealer.

Subaru paint codes are located on either strut tower or in the door edge or jamb. Most paint color codes are three digits long and may contain both letters and numbers. For two tone cars: The paint code for a two tone car provides the data for both the upper body paint color and the lower bumper color. The trim code is never the bumper color. For a list of touch up paint colors for your Subaru go here: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/year.aspx?make=Subaru.

DEXRON 111

If the map sensor is running high, manifold absolute pressure, then I would try checking for a vacuum leak somewhere, or, change the map sensor and see what happens.

Also, check plugs and wires for age.

replcae thermostat and test anti-freeze for strenght

Are you sure that they bearings are really bad, bad tires can also give you a growl noise from the bearings if they are different or worn badly. It should not mater where you take it to have them done, just that they use good quality parts and replace them properly. Hope this helps and have a good day.

call the dealership and ask them or look it up on ebay

You do not bleed a radiator. I am not sure what you are trying to do. Just open the drain **** on the bottom of radiator until it is empty. Close the drain and refill with proper mix of coolant and water.

lift the bonnet and look behind the headlamp in question, there will be a few nuts that are holding the assembly to the front apron, remove them and also the electrical plug from behind the headlamp.
if it is only a bulb you have to replace you will find that where the electrical plug connects to the rear of the headlamp there is a rubber weatherproof boot which you remove, it will expose the rear of the halogen bulb, there will be a little metal spring type arm retaining the bulb,push the end of the spring towards the back of the headlamp and to the side and let it come back away from the headlamp, this will let the bulb come out and you replace it with the new bulb and replace the items in reverse order

Did you replace the plugs with the same plugs (Manufacturer) as the plugs you had in there. Some cars are very picky with plugs. ie: some Japanese cars will only run well with NGK Spark Plugs. Try to use only what Subaru recommends in your engine for the best performance.