1999 Subaru Forester - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here is a great link, lots of diagrams...http://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/subaru/forester/1999

CHECK CLIPS ON BRAKE PADS.

Try wiggling it back and forth and twisting it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn

some have them and some dont. not sure on that car but most are located up around the thermostat housing......good luck

there are 2 fuse boxes, one under the hood in the vicinity of the battery. the other box is usually on the drivers side either under the dash by your feet on the left, or where the door meets the dash. Occasionally it will be found in the glove box on where the passenger door meets the dash. First thing to do is check the basics, oil level and coolant level in reservoir. (concerning the engine light) If the oil and coolant level is fine you should be safe to drive it to Auto Zone (or other such store, however Auto Zone does it for free) and have them plug in the computer to determine the cause of the engine light, it could be any number of things even the gas cap. The tail light could be a fuse, however if no fuse is blown it could also be loose wiring. if you do not have an owner's manual, a really great investment is a repair manual, Chilton has the 1999 Forester online at http://seo.chiltonsonline.com/Pub/DIY/Product.aspx?ca=Repair&b=346 this will have step by step instructions on removing panels to check wires and replacing lamps. check to see if the brake lights work and if they are a different bulb than the tail lights, I had a similar problem in an old Cavalier where the brake lights worked but the tail lights didn't, my problem was in the switch where you turn on the headlights/turn signal. Have a friend help determine what, if any, lights are working in the rear and front of the car. Auto Parts stores have diagnosis equipment for common issues and are generally very helpful if you have a question about what may cause a problem. ( I have only had a problem with Pep Boys when it comes to being helpful.) I wish you luck.

duplicate question

First, is the check engine light on ? If it is, you have to get it scanned to know where to start looking.This car uses an idle air control valve to adjust idle speed.The valve could be dirty or failing, and the throttle body could also be dirty.

This light indicates a problem has occurred in the transmission function, have the dealer scan the system.

Have you tried taking a clothing pin and clearing the spray tip? I've had my WWF nozzles clog on me before, I noticed it when only one side was spraying. I just took a sewing needle and unclogged it, worked fine after that.

spark plug make= ngk
plug type =BKR6E-11
GAP=1.1mm A TURBO MODEL WILL BE 0.7-0.8 MM GAP

Does it click when it stops cranking? If it does it's the battery. does it actually fire up for a second or does it just crank..............click, click, click? if it actually fires, you need to check the fuel pressure release in your engine compartment. it will look like an aluminum pipe with a little valve that looks like the one on your tire. press the center pin (***make sure to be ready for gas to shoot out at high pressure....cover eyes, mouth, ect****) if it does not shoot out, then it is either your fuel filter, or your fuel pump. On most newer models like yours the fuel filter is part of the pump and they are in the gas tank.

• 1Open the hood and place a drain pan under the radiator drain valve.

• 2Remove the radiator cap.
• 3Open the radiator valve and let the coolant from the radiator drain.
• 4Close the radiator valve once the coolant has finished draining.
• 5Raise the front of the vehicle using a floor jack and safely support it on two jack stands.
• 6Remove the engine under cover using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
• 7Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing on the engine side using a pair of rib joint pliers, Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket, depending on type of clamp used on your particular model.
• 8Unscrew the two thermostat housing mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket.
• 9Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat unit from the vehicle.

Installing the Thermostat

• 1Clean the thermostat housing and engine mating surfaces using a soft brush to avoid damaging the surfaces.
• 2Set the new thermostat in place along with a new rubber ring. Make sure the thermostat spring points towards the engine and the jiggle pin faces upward.
• 3Install the thermostat housing and start the two mounting bolts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
• 4Tighten the bolts using a ratchet and socket.
• 5Install the lower radiator hose on the thermostat housing and tighten the clamp using a pair of rib joint pliers, Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket, depending on type of clamp used on your particular model.
• 6Replace the engine under cover using a ratchet and socket.
• 7Lower the vehicle.
• 8Refill the cooling system with 50 percent water and 50 percent new anti-freeze. Pour the coolant through the radiator neck using a funnel if necessary.
• 9Replace the radiator cap.
• 10Refill the coolant reservoir with coolant, bringing the level between the Low and Full marks.
• 11Start the engine and let it idle for about three minutes to bring the engine to operating temperature.
• 12Check the coolant reservoir level and add if necessary to bring the level between the Low and Full marks.

  13Turn off the engine.

Take out the oil drain plug and drain the oil from the engine(let it drain for about an hour), use a small flat head screwdriver to break the seal between the oil pan and the engine, take it off, make sure you get all of the seal and gunk off of the engine and the pan where the seal goes, replace the seal and add any sealant if required and replace the pan, tighten the bolts from one side to the other and then one side to the other until you tighten them all(like you would the lug nuts on a car's tire). add 4.5 quarts of oil, let it sit for a while and then run the car at idle for around 10 minutes. Done.

The teeth on the arm might be stripped or the window motor might be dying. You will have to take off the door panel to see.

Did you check the underhood fuse #30, 15amp which controls illumination and the clock? It appears as though there are 2 fuses which control the clock, one under hood and one in the cabin (#9).

Bad battery (have the battery tested) Bad connection, corrosion on the terminal and in the cable, replace the cable, recharge the battery to full charge.

go to subaru forester.org and click on oh no my clock doesnt work. i have fix 2 clocks in just a few mins. hope this helps.

They shove these anti siphon tubes down in the fuel hose and they get crimped some times. It's made of plastic and is flexible. You can try to grab the fuel hose and squeeze it to find the crimp. Then take a pair of pliers and try to open the crimped part back up. Some times this works, some times you have to pull the hose and cut the crimp out. Also the is a tip over valve at the tank where the hose attaches. It could be lodged. On this try smacking the tank at the opening/hose. A rubber mallet works great for this as you don't want to break the tank.

This is a very common issue with this, and many other clocks of this era. I offer a repair solution with a lifetime guarantee. Check it out: www,autoclockrepair.com
I have info on how to remove the clock etc there as well. Drop me a note if you have any questions, thanks!

hi could be a few things but id check the fuel pump/ filter and if they check out alright then move on to the cam or crank sensors