1999 Subaru Forester - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Each wheel has a magnetic sensor and a slotted ring that generates the ABS pulse. The sensor can get dirty (rust, mud and brake dust) and have to be cleaned. The replaceable slotted ring often rusts in older cars. The cable from the wheel sensors to the body, while very tough, can get damaged or disconnected. Its usually the front ones. You may need new rotors. Subarus requires the same make and size of tires front and rear. Mixing sizes can cause a mismatch in the ABS signals from each end, and this will often cause the ABS light to come on. The ABS computer may have failed. If ABS is working more or less correctly, hitting the brakes on loose dirt or snow/ice should result in the pedal kick back and the buzzing of the ABS valve system.

I take it u mean the heaters blow hot air but only in 1 position no matter where u set it to blow it all depends on if it's electrically done or mechanically done , if it's mechanically done it's probably the rod that connects from the dial to the heater box has broke or come off or been removed etc , if it's electric then it's a bit harder and u will need to find out what bit is not working.

HAVE TO BE UNDER LOOK FROM LEFT TO THE RIGHT,DRIVER SIDE,IS SAMOWHERE THERE.

You should have your ecm tested or replaced

check that the wires for the motor are on correctly and that the loom has not jammed and cut when replacing the motor. There is a dead short in the wires after re-assembly of the system

Check engine light blinks 3 times on my 1990 Legacy wagon

If the steering wheel is turned to full lock position, the power steering system is being exposed to thousands of PSI for a brief moment until the pressure relief valve kicks in and allows pressure to bleed off. Which is the hissing/groaning noise you may have heard before. That brief moment of extreme pressures is the most common causes of failures in power steering pumps along side dry steering while not moving. If you have shudder going both ways, you will need a new power steering pump because it is worn out. If you get a shudder in one direction and not the other, then you will need a power steering "Rack and Pinion" assembly. If it was my car, I would do both at the same time so you don't have to worry about the other component going out later on and starting the whole process over again. I hope this info helps!

possibly the fluid may need flushing and renew.

You have a check engine light on What are the codes When you google your codes what system has a fault

its to the right of the ignition coil pack under the wires on the drivers side. bibby1 image

dirty battery terminals and probably a new battery

yes automatic transmission will require you swap some sensors as the plugs are sometimes different. manual transmissions are all the same until 2004

This is a common fault with the factory cd players. Suggest replacement with an aftermarket head unit

Depress the brake pedal and try again.

there is a flip down panel to the lower edge of the dash panel above the pedals. It is a 16 pin socket

Go to Godaddy.com

Sound's like you might be having a sticking EGR valve. The EGR valve is located on the drivers rear of the engine. Sometimes hesitation is caused by adjustment problems in the TPS (Throttle position sensor). You may have to have a shop put it on the engine analyzer. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Disconnect the fuel line from the filter and check if there is fuel when you prime it. If there is NOT fuel, you have a lead. If there IS fuel coming out, it might not be enough pressure. I had to replace an O-ring on the fuel pump assembly. Hope I helped.

you need to reset the immobiliser my friend , refer to the owners manual .

SOUND AS MAYBE REAR CV AXEL IF IT IS ALL WHEEL DRIVE