20 Most Recent 2002 Lexus IS 300 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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both lights? at the same time? you replaced 1 bulb or both? there are several fuses,40 amp fuse, headlamp relay, fuses are all good? any other lights not work? Are you sure it has HID lights?

There are a few methods of removing the crankshaft pulley but the best method and the safest one is by the use of breaker bar and a crank holding tool.

You can also have the breaker bar pinned to the ground while tapping on the starter. Be warned with this one. Make sure you know where the pulley spins other wise the bar would cause damage to the car.

Another method is by using and old serpentine belt around the pulley and a big strap wrench to hold it still. Use a bar or part of the frame to lock it then use a breaker bar to set it free or your wrench.

You turn it counterclockwise to take out.

it could be the clutch throw out bearing making the noise however it still could be a belt.check the condition of the belt and tightness of the belt(s) as well as the tensioner first as this is the cheapest to do if its the problem.the reason the noise goes away while driving is because the load(torque) on the component is less than when your taking off from a stop or driving slow.

Hello alt.... There are several possible causes.


1. Test drive the car. Start with the windows down. Find a parking lot or somewhere relatively quiet so the noises can be heard. Drive straight at 20 miles per hour and lightly apply the brakes. Listen for squealing, rubbing or grinding; this would indicate worn brake pads. Slow the car to 10 miles per hour and make a sharp turn in both directions. If you hear a clicking noise, the CV joints are bad and need to be replaced. If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight ahead slowly, the hub bearings are bad. Come to a stop and turn the wheel in both directions. If a grinding noise is present, the top bearing plate is suspect and must be checked further. Put the car in park and get out. Push up and down on the front end of the car. If a squealing noise is present, the struts or control arm bushings are bad and need further inspection. Take the car home to continue the inspection.

2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.

3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.

4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.

5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.

6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.

7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.

8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.

9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.

10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem

try if this works\improves your situation;

turn the key to ON but don't crank, let it sit for 2 seconds. Do this 2-3 times, then put it in the ON position, wait 2 seconds then crank. As for what it is, could be spark plugs, fuel pump\line issue, etc..

Make sure the battery is fully charged and if so the starter is bad

Like almost every thing there can be a number of thing causing this. Checking the Ambient temperature sensor would be a good place to start. The sensor is located in the front bumper and can be tested with ohm meter. The next item that should be checked is the servomotor that is a little involved so let me know what happened with this temp sensor first. also check the plug and wires out to the temp sensor also.

If it's a ES300 yes replace water pump, due to timing belt drives water pump, if it's a GS300 no need to replace water pump, not driven by timing belt.

Sounds like the oil is blowing out the exhaust, did you check your tail pipe to see if there is any oil build up in it?

first, try smacking the hood at one of the front corners while someone else pulls the release handle. or even after you've pulled on it. if that works, once open, adjust and lubricate the hood latch assembly. if it still won't open, and it's the cable and not the latch you'll have to replace it anyway, so instead of removing the grill, cut the cable behind the pull lever under the dash where you can reach it. then skin the outer cable insulation away from the actual steel cable exposing an inch or two of it. then holding the insulation and plastic housing with pliers, grab the steel cable itself with pliers and pull it to open the hood. then replace the cable. the further you can reach up under the panel the better your chances of getting past the broken part of the cable and avoid removing the grill. you might also be able to gain access from up under the car if you're lucky.

I take it the wiring has been ripped off from the underside to the sensor. You will just have to follow the wiring from the connector under the carpet under the passenger seat inside the car to where it exits to the exhaust. Fit the new sensor with an open ended spanner, carefully feed the wires/plug back through to the connector. The oxygen sensor has four wires. Two, usually grey, are to supply the sensor heater with power, they only work when hot so they have internal heaters. The other two wires are the signal feeds back to the ECU that report on oxygen levels.