20 Most Recent 2002 Jeep Wrangler - Page 2 Questions & Answers

go to autozone or advance auto they check codes for free.

Crank or cam sensor signal intermittent. Could be one of these two sensors, the connectors or the wiring to them.

A/T or M/T auto or stick? mine a stick. why do that.?

Cylinder numbers (front to rear) 1-2-3-4-5-6 Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 hope this helps you

Actually What others been saying are false, The 2002 Wrangler Has Lower DASH speakers not doors so the wire would not be crimped or kinked or broken with in the door grommet. The Probable cause would either be a loose jack where the wire connects to the speakers or the branch point where the wire comes from the speaker to the rest of the harness or a faulty connections behind the radio within the harness from being pulled an removed from the dash. I actually will be tracing a 02 wrang this coming weekend because of speaker break up so i will post you in on where it was located.take care aj !

That's typically one of 2 things, either you have a bad gas cap or its not clicked sealed so check see if it's tight an if not you have 2 options. Check your evap hoses for a leak or buy a new gas cap for 8-10 bucks at the parts store. hope that helps you

bad ,mc bad slave or both.

02 , just sold mine, best car ever. had, of many.how do you know that.?and what are the tires, touching, (dirt, snow,ice, grass , pavement)what?this car has part time 4wd, it is not AWDits not a Grand cheerokee with AWD.engaging 4wd on ice free pavement is wrong.http://www.rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/driveline-bind.htmland my fsm states.read the operators guide in the glove box, it will say.... "2WD is intended to be driven on normal street and highway conditions, such as HARD surfaced roads." Then "4H & 4L positions are intended for loose slippery road surfaces only and not intended for normal driving" (They assume paved streets are normal.) "Driving in 4H or 4L positions on hard surfaces roads, will cause, increased tire wear, and damage to the drive line components." Unqual tire sizes, will do the same damage. "circumference mismatched" Last: "do not attmpet to make a shift, while only the front or rear wheels are spinning" No transfer case synchronizer exists and damage will result." (kill the gear dogs, you will)

it's not priming. that grease trick helps. is this some china pump off fleabay or a real jeep pump..??? did you do the below.: 1: the grease sure. and then prime the filter and the gallery behind the filter. 2: With fuel and spark defeated, and spark plugs removed then with pressure gauge attached to sender port, did you crank it to get max pressure (my guess is this is the step you are posting on.) i never start any engine, (after majors) unless i get #2 to work first the number 3, which is top end oil checks. the pump is no priming. In pro shops they make up a priming tool. so new engines are never started, 1st time dry, ever. one way is just a tank full of oil and shop air, and 2 valve. maybe the new pumps relieve valve is stuck open, fully. i rebuild my own classic engines, after all that work !!! i never ever, skip these steps. and for 100% sure, good pressure, and top end oiling on any major work. one of the top brand pump makers. VIDEO http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8uQ8k NEVER !

That could be a few things. First try cleaning the throttle body air intake butterfly, the check for any vacume leaks and last try changing the throttle position sensor.

4wd is more labor, 4wd is an option. and A/T more, automatic.hours.?depends on the shop and tools, for sure and skills.When I was 19, could do it 2 times faster .took me 10 hours last time.there are 2 ways.drop tranny , and transfer case (w/tranny lift jack)and pull engine. only.as i said, tools make the difference.today id jerk the engine, sure would. hood off.

dash knocks. 2002 wrangler.that\'s a good one but id do this.1: kill the whole HVAC system power, (FUSE pulls) under stand how.if this is not clear, ask or read the FSM page on HVAC.it might be a berserk damper motor (device)this car is TJusing 2 persons to find noise works best and at 55 that big time danger. no? so do that, one drives. other uses a rubber hose to hisear to find LOCATION, like in real estate, location is every thing, LOL.its not a bad speedo cable, there is no such ani-mule on this car.electronic end to end.before working on any car, 96\' to now, defeat the air bags per FSMfirst or get broken neck or worse at 55mph. really... RTM.DO not ever work on cars with no FSM or find your self, playing harp.I put my bet on HVACand using a real scan tool not autozoned junk, and see if youhave HVAC DTC errors.i use a Innova 3160 and it shows them all. (so do others)the $29 code readers are pure junk, on newer cars.ok on 1996, but not newer cars with CAN buss or advanced electronics like ours.SCAN IT FIRSTS ! THEN ASK QUESTIONS.fooling around air bags at 55mph is fool hardy.

4/6 hrs depends on tools and skill level

this is not a no start, its a no crank no car starts if it can crank, (unless you push(or gravity) start my jeep. so whats got the slush pump A/T or the stick shift? you turn the key , and the starter is silent. and stop guessing. you then jumper cable start car and it what FAILED, (rules out battery and charge system in 1 act) so the starters bad or the key line is dead. so you hot wire the starter solenoid and bam cranks. so the starter was good, just 1min test with screwdriver hot wire act. so the stater does crank when hot wired, so you do these tricks. not posting transmission really makes this hard but thats ok no one post ever did.... 8 ways from sunday http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#tricks got an A/T do SAY! please.

Could be the brake switch or the shift lock solenoid. You may be able to get it out of park by trying it with the key between lock and on.