2002 Jeep Liberty - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Could be fuel related. First thing to check for that would be a fuel pressure test. Even though the pump is working, the proper and specified pressure must be kept in the fuel rail for the injectors to work right.And/or have the computer scanned for any diagnostic trouble codes. Many national parts stores do free diagnostic scans.

seen where. must we guess that? it means when you burn a oil , what remains is nothing or small ash, google low ash oil.

The hood shocks for a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a 3.7L engine typically have a pressure rating of around 30-35 pounds per square inch (psi). However, it's important to note that the exact pressure specification may vary depending on the specific model, aftermarket parts, or any modifications made to the vehicle.

WE INSPECT IT WITH MARK1, EYEBALLS (A MIL JOKE) SCAN IT YET, SEE CAM, ERRORS. >> USING REAL SCAN TOOL.? NO ENGINE TOLD 2.4l IS CAM BELT VIN DIGIT #8 IS ENGINE CODE, NOT TOLD AND IS A PURE ENGINE QUESTION. OR THE 3.7l LIKE MINE V6, ? IF A CHAIN GOES BAD IT MAKES HUGE RACKET. THAT MEANS NEVER RUN it LIKE THAT. EVER. Both engines are interference, so driving them with bad cam drive has huge risk of engine damage $3000 + bills, parts./labor not told at all why? is engine acting odd. or makes nasty sounds. or CEL lamp; on ? or other cluster errors glowing. or what? what's up doc? top evidences is lost power or engine destruction. huge racket (noise max) for the belt drive snapped, it makes noise only on destructiong head valves hit piston, wrecked why not get it serviced and ask the person live for advice. ask the tech in a shop. say check it out.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. The engine cylinders have no relevance to gear shifting and you don't have a 'Cylinder F'.. You need a transmission specialist or an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose the issue electronically. You can't guess these things. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

What does type 35

They don't go all the way flat but to get them down you have to do the do one of them first can't remember which one and you do so by lifting the lever next to the headrest and most likely u need to remove the headrest before doing so otherwise when you pull it forward it won't have room

Having trouble with the motor mount

Might be your TPS..

Have have you had the chance to check out your auto computer or did a DTC diagnosis? https://mintt.com/

The switch is on the outside of the transmission case. See a photo of it below. It may have a short lead on it or the harness plugs directly in.

you are swapping PCM's that be real bad. on newer cars with Security this causes it to think your are a thief and bricks the PCM (skim rules 101) "until the pcm use in another jeep" huh? SKIM is Phissed off. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/trouble-code-p1686-905620/

Puede ser que los cables de las bujias estan mal puesto. O las valvulas eatan mal ajustada

Do an upper intake clean that should help with the idle problem. May also have a throttle position sensor problem.

Watch this video for help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntTRKeCp0Vo

Flush the heater system.

Fuel shutoff is controlled the the relay which is controlled by the computer which in some cases is controlled by the oil pressure sensor.

1-20amp-pwr outlet frt. 2-10amp-rear fog lights(export only)
3-15 amp-horn 4-10amp-hedlt low beam rt
5-10amp-hedlt low beam lft 6-20amp-bodycontrolmodule/pwr dr locks 7-spare 8-spare 9-10amp- rt pk lt /rt tail lt/trailer tow lt/cluster
10-spare 11-15 amp-flasher 12-15 amp-stop lts
13-10amp-bodycontrolmodule/cmtc/cluster 14-spare
15-10amp-pdc fuel pmp & auto shutdownrelays/skis
16-20amp-pwr outlet rear 17-15amp-rear wiper 18-20amp-radio choke relay 19-20amp-frt fog lts/trailer tow stop and turn lts
20-20amp-sunroof 21-spare 22-10amp-wiperswitch/frt and rear washer 23-10amp-lft park lt/lft tail lt 24-10amp-pdc blower motor relay 25-10amp-heatseatswitch/hvac controlhead/trailor tow battery charge 26-10amp-hedlt highbeam rt 27-10amp-hedlt highbeam lft
28-spare 29-15amp-heated seat module 30-10amp-heated mirrors/rearwindowdefrosterindicator 31-20amp-cigarlighter
32-10amp-radio/frtdoorlockswitches/bodycontrolmodule
33-10amp-skis/diagnostic connector 34-15amp-cluster/courtesy lts/radio/bodycontrolmodule/maplights/cmtc/underhood lt/vanity lts
35-spare 36-10amp-ignition run/start-orc/lft and rt siacm
37-10amp-ignition run only-orc 38-10amp-abs module/brake shift interlock solenoid 39-10amp-rear window defroster relay/flasher/backup lts

There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everythin g totally free there are many actually but I personally like few reliable-store for eg. .. let me know if u need help thanks

You did not mention about replacing a piston you said was broken? if you did not there is the cause of you low compression. either way if you did change it out and did not measure the ring end gap and put the right size ring in the hole then it looses compression, if you failed to resurface the cylinder and just put in a set of rings then they wont seat for a while. In addition. length of push rod? was cam follower collapsed? did you change? How about the connecting rod of the piston? the one that was in there more than likely got squashed and isn't coming up to full compression Sounds to me like you need to take the head off again and check out a few more things Sorry!