4.0L or 4.7L engine> the park switches are different.
you pulled a starter with out removing battery neg lug?
is that it?
your post makes it hard to see what the story is.
you replaced starter because car would not CRANK
or
you replaced starter, and shorted out the big cable and boom
and now all things are dead. what?
ill assume car would not crank one day
and you gue$$ a bunch of parts and guessed wrong,
guessing is very expensive.
------------------------------Testing wins--------------------------------------
so no crank 101, posted 100 times. ILL ASSUME it's a A/T tranny.
(im ignoring new parts, i never assume anything works i test it)
- check all fuses in all boxes. using a voltmeter. 12vdc both sides key on and battery cables lugs area all clean and tight x4 ends.
- you check battery volts its 12.6vdc rested, good.
- you crank, and the solenoid just clicks. or only the starter relay only clicks, (more later on that)
- you see that battery voltage never drops below 11v and crank time. (11v is typ, tad less if in Alaska, or bad battery or not charged fully)
- You then jumper cable crank car, off a running donor car ,just like Mr. AAA tow does.... same to a fault. (google how) (hinting your battery is good, I have a battery load tester so can check)
- if this cranks ok, the battery is bad. (happens or is discharged)
- car still will not jumper crank.
- we next hot wire the starter small wire to big lug. keys in pocket. Called hot wiring a starter solenoid.
- engine does not crank, starter bad. or may be battery cables.
- engine does crank nice , my keys are in pocket ,see?
- ok starter is good, at test 10. so we now know its ok. easy huh>
- now we know the key line is bad. 1 wire. end to end. easy.
- you try to start in neutral, omg it starts. bad PRNDL switch.
- or its bad starter relay.
now we show how it cranks. good starter and battery (& cables)
keyon,
put shifter in to park then neutral and crank.? fails both?
the starter relay must close cranked, if not, bad park switch or bad relay
in this moment (cranking) there must be 12vdc across the 2 relay coil pins.
pin 85 and 86 with volt meter, if 0v, the PRNDL switch is bad.
or on 4.7L the TRS switch.
if the relay closes, then jb fuse f31 is ok and pdc f8 must be good.
and you then turn key to crank. and relay pin 87 goes to 11v to 12v.
this then is a single wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid
tiny wire , it goes to 12v and starter cranks, 11v what you see here
unless in alaska , less. (10v ?)
see red arrow what is voltage there cranking?
we can go fast , if you just do that.
the transmission switch grounds the lower coil,here.
if not the starter will be dead forever.
both fuses must be good, or same.
12vdc arrives at top left fuse, and is hot only cranking.
if the right fuse, glows above the relay can not send power to the starter solenoid.
