20 Most Recent 1992 Jeep Wrangler - Page 9 Questions & Answers

distributor or fuel pump/filter. You can spray WD40(as this will not knock the engine, like the starting fluid does) into the intake and if it acts like it wants to start then it is the fuel system if not the ignition system ( distributor, sensor, plugs/wires ) Hope this helped Tim

Always replace the 'throw-out' bearing (which pushes directly on the clutch pressure plate) even though it may be good now. There is a bronze pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft that the shaft end of the transmission slides into and tends to wear after long use. If badly worn, it can cause minor vibration sometimes after a gear shift. To remove the bearing, you will need to rent or borrow a 'slide hammer' tool with a twin-fingered puller adapter. Make sure the flywheel surface is reasonably smooth and no debris clinging to the surface. This is important if the clutch was 'chattering' before when engaging. Buy a plastic clutch-disc alignment tool that you use during the installation of the disc and pressure plate. Hope this helps!

Sounds like your slave cylinder is leakingout the fluid and needs to be replaced. The slave cylinder is the hydralic part that pushes on the clutch, when you depress the clutch pedal. Have it inspected and replaced if necessary.

Rojo,
It seems that the front brake robber hose has developed a leak and the front shoes are jamming the wheels. That is why the Wrangler is not wanting to move and is having very hot front wheels. Please get the front brakes bled.

i have had same problem on other vehicle's .generaly there are two type of speedo cables , one is a cable that runs from back of speedomiter to the gear box , you will need to remove dash to get at this one , but most commenly they are electric , which means all you need to do is replace the speed sensor on gearbox , there isnt much to replacing this part , usually this is located on drivers side of gearbox about middle bottom to middle top of gearbox , it will have only a few screws holding it in place , mainly they use just one . all you need to do is remove it by undoing screw and unplugging wire harness , which usually only has one or two wire conected to it , when you have un done speedo sensor unit , you will most likely find that a small plastic gear has stripped its teeth , just buy a new unit and refit this will usaully fix your problem .

maybe get a work shop manual for your vehicle so you can best locate and remove this device .
good luck , not many cars use the cable type , if it is a cable then just replace it as it usually breaks of at either end inside the cable .
good luck , i am sure if you replace the speedo sensor first it will bve o.k

Go to AutoZone read the code, and get a code explanation print out for FREE. There are thre ways to clear the engine codes.
1 . Disconecting the battery for 30 minutes and reconecting.
2 . Using a code scaner equipted with clearing option.
3 . Solving the problem that generates the code.
Hope this wil help.

The problem is in your ignition switch. The ignition switch is in the steering column. It is just inside or under the dash. The ignition switch is not sending power to the starter solenoid.

This is a typical master cylinder failure. PRE bleed a new m/c and install that.

If it's a 5 speed, under the passenger side in front of the base plate, there is a small nipple looks like the one for bleeding breaks, it pokes out of the front bell of the transmission. Bleed it like breaks, have someone push on the clutch, and hold, you open and let out the air, close have them let up, repeat until air is out.

If you determined the ratio by reading the tag, you may have a problem. You need to actually count the teeth on the ring and pinions and both front and rear must match exactly. To find ratio divide the teeth on the ring gear by the tooth count on the pinion. The product must match!!!
Make sure that the universal joints on the axles are in good condition and not binding. Also check that the bolts that act as wheel stops at full lock when turning are set far enough out.
I have seen far too many that are so far in that the joint cannot possibly turn that far without binding. Though lengthening them will sacrifice some turning radius, I'd rather have a one or two foot difference in radius than a broken axle or end joint.
"other parts"? Regardless of manufacturer, gears are made to work in the unit they are intended for. There is no variation in a gear made by a different company. Ring and pinions are ALWAYS made in sets, and if properly assembled (by a professional with a lot of experience) the gear set should never bind.
I should not need to say this but tire size front and rear must also be an exact match.
Slight binding on dry clean surfaces is normal but there, you should not be in four wheel drive either!

code 12 is a normal code when the engine is not running. it means there is no distributor reference. When this code flashes during the key cycle, it is normal.

sounds like a bad blower motor or bad solder connection to it or bad harness connection to the blower motor.

Are you sure the starter is good, or is strong enough to turn the engine? First thing I would do is replace the starter. After that check the voltage when you are trying to start. Maybe the eletrical connection isn't good enough. In that case replace the cable.
Thank you,
Lee

there are a couple things that cause the clicking, you either have a bad starter sylinoid or usually a bad connecton at the battery or starter its self, that click is usually just a bad connection issue

brake light switch, fuses, or bulbs 99.9% of the time. You would be surprised just how many times people (including me!) look for a more complicated solution. If the bulbs are fine, check fuses, then look at brake light switch. A meter helps with diagnosis so let me know if you have access to one and will guide you on what to do and look for.

sounds like a starter take a test light touch it to the smaller stud on the starter have someone turn the key to start the car the test light should light with the key if starter does not work its bad . if the light does not light then its the ignition switch on the steering column = no power to starter

Hi, it pretty sounds like you have a problem with the slave cylinder since most of the time you find it difficult to press down the clutch which means you probably have to remove the brake servo to get access to the slave cylinder to fix it..

Take care

To replace the bearings, you need to first remove the axles by removing the diff cover, taking out the small bolt or drift pin that holds the spider gear shaft in place, removing the shaft and pushing in on the axle to remove the "c" retainer on the axle end.
You can remove the bearing by prying it out using the end of the axle or by using a puller made to do that. Install is the reverse of removal. Don't forget to re-fill diff before driving!