20 Most Recent 1992 Jeep Wrangler - Page 8 Questions & Answers

When was the last time you changed the spark plugs and wires ?

well do you have a switch or push button selector or a actual floor shifter? Ok, when you are driving you can and only should shift from 4 hi to 2 hi and 2 hi to 4 hi at any speed as long as tires are not spinning and you are not on the gas. when shifting, release gas pedal slightly and shift. do not shift lets say when you are taking off at a light, this would be under power and will do damage to drivetrain. also you can shift at any time while vehicle is at a stop position. Now when shifting into 4 lo the vehicle must be stopped and should be put in nuetral and when shifting out of 4 lo the vehicle must be stopped and in nuetral also as to not damage drivetrain. Never drive faster than 25 mph in 4 lo as you will damage drivetrain. When i say shift i mean either push the button to 2 hi or 4 hi or turn selector knob to position desired, or push , pull shift lever on floor to desired position. I dont know what your set up is . but they all use the same instructions as how to shift the 4x4 selections

did you check fuses or relay for fuel pump.

any parts store will have steel and flex hoses of differing lengths and sizes hanging on the wall for brake and clutch lines. you need someone to measure, make, and bend the line and install it for you.
takes a tool to flare the ends and bend without crimping

ok one thing first the thares a few things to check first check to see if thare is a fuse bus buy the batter check all 50amp fuses that is what it sounds to me i dont remimber if that year was fused with the big maxie fuse are if it was a linkeable fuse if it is a linkelbule fuse thin it will be a little harder to find lightly pull on the wires to the b+ on the alt and fallow them a fuseabule link will sterach. most of the ecm are pcm that are replased are not bad so check the fuses first have a 95 that blow both 50 amp fuses and did the same and it happind win i jumped it

since its NOt isolated to just one gauge,,sound like a cluster fuse is blown,,,check fuses,,,look carfuly sometimes its hard to spot a blown fuse or,,put meter on them and check for continuity.

1. timing cover is leaking oil betwwen cover and block
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
3. Remove the drive belt(s), fan and fan shroud. If equipped, remove the accessory drive belt pulley.
   
4. Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt and washer. Remove the vibration damper using a suitable puller.
   
5. Remove the accessory drive brackets attached to the timing cover.
   
6. Remove the A/C compressor, if equipped, and alternator bracket from the cylinder head and move to one side.
   
7. Remove the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts and the cover-to-cylinder block bolts.
   
8. Remove the timing case cover front seal and gasket from the engine.
   
9. Cut off the oil pan side gasket end tabs and oil pan front seal tabs flush with the front face of the cylinder block. Remove the gasket tabs.
   
10. Clean the timing case cover, oil pan and cylinder block gasket surfaces.
    
11. Remove the crankshaft seal oil seal from the cover by prying it out with a suitable tool.
    

To install:

1. Install a new seal in the timing cover using a suitable seal installation tool.
   
2. Apply sealer to both sides of the replacement cover gasket and position the gasket on the cylinder block. Cut the end tabs off the replacement oil pan gasket corresponding to those cut off the original gasket. Attach the end tabs to the oil pan with sealer.
   
3. Coat the front cover seal end tab recesses generously with sealer and position the seal on the timing cover.
   
4. Apply engine oil to the seal-oil pan contact surface, then position the cover on the cylinder block.
   
5. Insert timing case cover alignment tool J22248 or equivalent, in the crankshaft opening. Install the cover-to-cylinder block bolts and tighten them to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Install and tighten the oil pan-to-cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
   
6. Remove the cover alignment tool and position a replacement oil seal on the tool with the seal lip facing outward. Apply a light coat of sealer to the seal and a light coat of oil to the crankshaft. Install the seal on the timing cover.
   
7. Apply a light film of oil to the vibration damper hub seal contact surface. Install the vibration damper using a suitable installation tool.
   

Do not hammer the damper into place as damage may result to the damper or engine.

1. Install and tighten the crankshaft vibration damper bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
   
2. If equipped, install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
   
3. Install the accessory brackets.
   
4. Install the fan and fan shroud.
   
5. Install the drive belt(s) and adjust to the proper tension.
   
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
   
7. Start the engine and check for leaks
   
8. .
   

is engine light on. if so get code might cat conv not letting enough out. allowing to much backpressure

20 w 50 is recommended for hot weather

Hello
The no. 1 cause of the gas gage not reading or reading incorrectly is that the sending unit for the gas gage inside the gas tank is defective, this is esp true on older cars and trucks, In order to replace the gas gage sending unit requires the gas tank be removed.

At the end of upper rad hose the end going to the engine

it needs to be reset. try holding down the trip meter reset button while the oil change warning is in the screen. if this doesn't work refer to your owners manual it should tell you how to reset it for your car

i use a website called www.rockauto.com for all my hard to find auto parts they will have anything you need.

might be a long shot chck the exhaust converter could be stoped up doubt it but it has happend

If the engine won't even turn over, it has nothing to do with the cap or wires. Perhaps you accidentally damaged or disconnected the battery cable to the ground, or one of the wires going to the starter? These are located in the same general area.

First, a 4.0L is an in line six cylinder not a V engine. But, exactly what can't you remove? There are bolts that hold it to the dash and a coupler on the column either on the passenger side or engine side of the firewall. Couplers either have a bolt that goes through and fits into a notch on the shaft or a drift pin that needs to be driven through to disengage it. If you have an air bag (don't think yours does) you need a manual to outline safety procedures to prevent deployment. (horn pad will say air bag and there will be a yellow wire under the dash with caution tags on it if you do)
Make sure you make reference marks so when you re-install, you end up with the wheel in the correct position.
Make sure you carefully unplug all harnesses and cables after lowering the unit from the dash and mark them also.

These jeeps have a safety fuel shut off in case of an accident. And a hard jarring can shut off. it should tell you where the switch is in your owners manual, All you have to do is press the reset button on it

Your clutch is hydraulically operated. If you see no leaks, good chance that the master clutch cylinder on the firewall is internally bypassing and not holding pressure. Sometimes though you see no leaks, if you look under the dash where the clutch rod goes into the backside of the unit, you may see some seepage there but they don't always leak. The master works exactly like the one that operates your brakes and they too will have the same problem as the internal piston seal gets worn.

Look in the drivers door it will give you a pound rating on towing, will be on the tag where the vin # is,