20 Most Recent 1992 Jeep Wrangler - Page 6 Questions & Answers

try checking the ignition module inside distributor cap...a flat thing with little connectors on it

Transmission generally takes a bit less than two quarts, Use 75/90 gear lube in that (in very cold climates you can add a small amount of automatic trans fluid to keep it flowing on cold starts) Transfer case takes a bit over one quart and takes dextron mercon 3. When filling either, fluid is full when on a level surface it begins to come out of the fill hole while filling. When changing either, always make sure you can open the fill plug before draining so you know you can replace what you removed.

More detail please. What bealt? where is it from? etc...

Most vehicles with four wheel drive and positraction in the rear will have an "open" style differential up front. (unless modified for off road only use). An open diff will only spin the wheel with the least traction. The only way the other wheel would have spun is if that happened.
Reason front posi units aren't used on the street is that they make steering difficult.

might be the clutch is out this would not allow you to shift or shift into your gears correctly

First rule out the free stuff. Get a flash light and put your head down in the car where your feet normally are. Look up the arm that the brake pedal is attached to and you will see a push button switch attached. This is the brake light switch and I bet Jeep only used the same switch for about 40 years worth of models.

The brake switch can be taken off fairly simply, and disconnect the plug. With the switch in your hand hook an ohmmeter's leads to the brake switch wire leads and push the button in and out. If the ohmmeter reads a short "zero ohms" when the button is in and an open "infinity ohms" when the button is out then the switch is good. If it does not close the circuit when in or out then it is bad and that is the reason your brake lights are not turning on. Head to the parts store.

The auto shutdown relay in your vehicle is controlled by the computer. If the computer does not see a signal from the crank or cam sensor, it will turn off power to the relay which in turn shuts off power to the fuel and ignition system. Unlike those in many passenger vehicles, it's not connected to an impact sensor. (as jeeps are off road vehicles as well as being transportation, if they had an impact sensor, they would be prone to shutdown when traveling over rough off road terrain)
The fuses to the relay are affected by shorting or overload of any components they serve, or by a problem with the relay itself.

In the gearbox is a selector,the selector is hold by a pin with a spring behind it. The spring or pin could be worn out. Good luck.

You're going to have to get in there w/a flash light , could be hose, frost plug or possible engine drain.

I would look in to a restricted exhaust system. the catalytic convertor might the cause?

Wont start or won't crank?

Yes, you do unless you fix that botched wiring job. The left turn wire must be connected to the running lights wire in the back. Actually it could just be the wrong bulb or a socket that is shorted across the terminals. Try taking the left rear bulb out first to see if that stops the strange behavior. If yes, check out the socket and the bulb. If no, check the wiring to see if the blue/red wire is crossed somewhere with the light green/black stripe wire.

No need to find the ecu box, which is located under the hood, next to the brake master cylinder. You only have to turn the ignition switch on-off-on-off-on( three times quickly), leaving it in the on position the third time on, to get the check engine light to flash out the computer error codes.

MAKE SURE BATTERY VOLTAGE IS 12.5 VOLTS.IF BATTERY OKAY.IF BATTERY CABLES VERY OLD YOU COULD HAVE BAD GROUND BATTERY CABLE.IF BATTERY CABLES GOOD.CHECK HEADLIGHT FUSE SHOULD BE 25 AMP FUSE.IF FUSE OKAY.YOU HAVE FAULTY HEADLIGHT SWITCH OR FAULTY DIMMER SWITCH.

check the ADS relay in the power center under the hood, swap out that relay for another on to see if it'll start-did you check to see if you have a signal at the crank sensor harness (should be about 5-7 volts)?

Did you resurface flywheel? If not, heat cracks and hot spots in flywheel are creating "chatter" and are eating your new clutch plate.