20 Most Recent 2004 Honda Civic - Page 7 Questions & Answers

if motor stalls , did it?if not stalled, you are losing DC power 12v to the PCM, or other EFI parts. Im assuming you ment quit reg, at the misfire. and that the motor did not stall.

????????????????????????????????????????????????Problem with 2004 Honda Civic Where is the fuse box on a 2004 dodge ram 1500 v-6 pick up truck

this is A/T question?post all A/T symptoms, pretend we are blind and can not drive your car. not at all. ever.what does the A/T do right, and wrong at all speeds, and hills.??if the A/T slips (called FLARE) do not drive it or you will burn it up.Is the Check engine light on , driving.is the Overdrive light (if you have one) acting odd?Any dash indictors or shift lights acting odd.

Check for a false rich condition .. Intake leak or bad timing . If you can read fuel trim at idle and ting advance please enter the specs here and I may be able to help

IMA. what is that.?

cam or spark.? both?addata dot com.

continue to search for answers but, your chip in your key may be bad, go to your local parts dealer and do the free diagnostic check of your key, physically. try having another key made, if prob persists, you may need your anti theft system looked at by the dealer, sounds like a security issue. call Honda dealership, ask for service and describe your prob. information is always free..

question #1: sounds like you may have to disassemble the side-view mirror cover assembly. the access point is on the inside of the door at the front corner of your window. try carefully prying the plastic interior piece (it looks triangular in shape) off of the door. this will give you access to the 10mm nuts that hold on your mirror cover. once there you can see if there is damage to the support bracket to see if its been cracked. if it has cracked or completely broken you might try drilling some holes through the fins of plastic on the bracket and using tie wire or something equivalent and stitch the holes together for strength. that's what I did 18 mos ago and its still holding.

To fix the tumblers, find a trusted locksmith. That's the way I'd go. Honda does have a kit, but, it's not a consumer one. You'd spend a decent amount of money on a kit that would fix hundreds of cars, so, that's why they won't sell it to you. As for the key fob, have you tried putting a new battery in it? Your description is not very clear. The LX should have come from the factory with a key fob. So, if you got one, make sure it's the correct one with a good battery. To program it, put your key in the igntion, turn the key to position 2 (the position right before you start the car), press a button on the key fob, turn the key back to position 0, Repeat these steps over and over (about 4 to 5 times) until the doors lock/unlock. If that doesn't work, you could have a bum transmitter. If some doors are not lock/unlocking, chances are bad doorlock acuators.

Your problem is not descriptive enough. Has it always been like this or just started happening? If it has always been like this, there is a possibility of a faulty lock OR someone has the door lock replaced and in that event, a new one from Honda comes with a new key that is different from the one for the ignition and the trunk and the glove box. Please provide more details.

yes, this is the case of a failed throttle body, in which case it needs replaced, the car is getting too much fuel causing the high idle. this needs replaced asap. you could proably find a small independant honda shop that could do the work for less.

replace bulbs

a release bearing will make noise when you push on the clutch, the input shaft bearing will make noise when you release the clutch, the transmission will have to be removed and torn down to replace the bearing.

The release cable is sticking or broken. To release the fuel door, open the trunk and pull off the fabric liner on the left side of the trunk. Behind this liner is the fuel door release cable; this cable leads to the fuel door and attaches with a twist-lock connector. It is cylindrical with two tabs. Twist the connector clockwise about 90 degrees and it should pull out, releasing the door.

Just remember, the fuel door will not stay closed until you put the connector back in.