1998 Honda Civic - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

your zone control door is either jammed or not working.

You need to dry the following: 1. Spark plug cables at both ends inside the rubber grommets. 2. Distributor (on the inside.) 3. remove any puddled water from the spark plug holes but DO NOT remove the spark plugs. Water will get in your engine and that's not good.

I've had to replace my ignition twice. There was a recall but they told me not on my car but still had to replace it

more info to fix problem

drill it out, Take a drill and drill where the key goes in, keep increasing size of bit until the switch turns, don't go to far in.

My only advice is that you shall controle the cablage, I had problem with my airbag light and it turned out to be 2 tiny strings in the big cabel. Maja

Why would you buy a car that you were told overheats? May have a bad head gasket May need a new radiator New water pump New thermoststat New timing belt and on & on Could be any combination of the above & more I'm going to say you most likely don't have the knowledge or equipment to do the required testing to find a problem

It takes a lot less power to run all the goodies than it does to start your car up.Do you have a battery charger? or can you borrow one to charge the battery up overnight. You might even try a boost.Check the connections at the battery and clean them if they are dirty.This doesn't sound like a fuse to me.Try the simple stuff first and then go from there.Let me know how you make out.good luck

I was just thinking about the sudden stall problem ,and no start problem .Have you checked the coil pack. When the car is cold it should start ,when it warms up ,with the under hood temps ,it will probably stall ,again. Try replacing the coil pack . Hope this helps

hi its horizontal on 98 in montreal a taxi driver has tools to unlock they charge 20.00 just an idea if u r realy stuck danny

Timing marks are notches cut into camgear, and dots or lines cast into crank pulley. Water pump does not need to be timed. The two cam notches will line up either level with the head surface or to an arrow on the inner cover. Valve lash is set cold, one cyl. at a time. The emmissions label on the hood should provide specs, but they should be .20mm int. .25mm ex. Note the mm. Do not use .020"!! Cylinders are just 1234 from the timing belt side. Good luck

See it in fuse and relay box under the hood.

If it accelerates good, going up a hill, and you don't feel it holding back, or sluggish when trying to accelerate, I'd certainly get a second opinion. What code were/are you getting?

idle air control valve or iacv is most likely your problem. common on civic's you need to do a search to find out where it is because it is different depending on what model you have. take it off and clean it with brake clean and put it back on with a new gasket.

it is on the rear of the block under the intake manifold. hard to see from to might need to get to it from underneath. The cheapest I have found them for civics was on amazon. they brake really easy and most of the time if you find a civic at the junkyard it is already been taken.

have you checked fuse box? they do have separate fuses for high and low beams. or your headlamp could just be bad, (burned out low beam)

what?

Hello: I have removed several of the harmonic balancer bolts, and it is difficult to hold the harmonic balancer from spinning when you remove the bolt. The bolt is normal thread, and removal is counterclockwise. There is a Honda holding tool you can get, or possibly borrow from a autoparts store. I always use either an impact wrench or a long breaker bar, and hold the harmonic balancer from rotating with a chain style wrench. I use an old belt to keep from damaging the damper pulley. Good luck!

HONDA has the problem like some other japanese vehichles. buy genuine or get the puch. the wiring is made out of platinum and optical fibre while pirate manufactures only use optical fibre. tht when is means that the genuine sensors time delay is way less than the one of the pirate and the reading ability of the sensors are way differnt. the other problem is the plugs looks if it fits but is only fit about 80%. this is also causing a delay is signal to the ecm or also knowm as the ecu. so when you accelerate it picks up no problem as it would appear to the sensor that the timing is 100% due to the fast moving rate of the crank but when you decellarate the timing is retarding and the sensor doesnt read is properly and then gives a wrong message to the ecu. otherwise you should be aware that honda has no key way in the crank so your timing should be 1000% correct alligned with the marks on the crank and cam and the locked with force otherwise your timing could be out and then this problem can persist as the crank is in correct place when accelerating but when you decelerate there is a slight backward pull on the crank and then thee timing sensor reads this.

Replace the contact to the battery.