20 Most Recent 2001 BMW Z3 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi,

There is a nice Troubleshooting Guide :-

http://www.distools.com/PDF_manuals/DigiDIS%20manuals/DigiDIS%20Manual%208.0.pdf

EEP-1 seems to indicate that position one of the EEPROM is ready to be read/written to for a mileage change/update. The manual indicates to access two pins internal to the cluster to initiate this condition ("EEP-1"). On Most occasions, it happens due to severe heat cycle, an more often you have some bad solder joints, etc. that are expanding and contracting with the temperature.

If, this is the problem, it would be very hard to diagnose. Typically, in electronics work, a heat gun and/or cold air can be concentrated on suspected joints to see if the problem occurs. Seems you would need someone fairly well versed in the above topics to find the faults.

If it's just a one time thing, I would not pursue a fix. If it's actually stuck in that mode, the dealer should be able to help with the true meaning of the "EEP-1".

Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Hi this could either be the clutch not engaging or the torque converter not converting the rpms to power.

Firstly check the fluid levels on the gearbox, the light on the dash should work regardless unless the torque converter is not working correctly.

Lastly check the slave cylinder look for any damp areas around the top of the gearbox, they sometimes leak but not enough to drip to the floor. If the slave is not working then most likely would cause this fault.

Torque converters are quite expensive around £500-£900 although some are cheaper thats just a round about figure.

After the fluid is corrected they also need to be bled through to get any air out of the system, again this could cause the issue you have.

Hope this helps
Regards

Dan

Check your idle control valve if it idles weirdly and switches off. Maybe it just needs a good clean.

25 nm or 18 ft lbs.

i had the same problem and BMW told me it will cost 1200 AUD to fix. I fixed it for free. inside there is a tiny kill switch above the passanger side. it wont let the roof operate unless you lift the roof. that was the problem. it was faulty. I by passed it and it has been fine for 5 years. I can't find the switch to replace so when I watch and lift the roof like you normaly do when want to open it.

One of the pulleys on the belt will be a tensioner. Its a smaller one, second one down on the left i think? Whichever one it is with a spanner on the hex in the middle you should be able to move the tensioner up or down to free off the belt. The pumps arent too difficult to do BUT they do break up and then you have a problem. There should be two threaded holes in the casing of the old one put in m8 or m6 bolts, whichever fits, and you should be able to pull the pump out like that. Make sure to be taping the block around the pump though while trying to pull it out to help it out because when the lugs with the threaded holes break, you have one big problemo.

GO TO A BMW DEALER AND THEY WILL HELP GET YOU THE CODE FOR YOUR RADIO.

Sounds like it. Loosen the belt and try to turn the pump by hand. It should turn quit easily. If it doesn't, it will need attention.

should be around $400

The system uses hydraulic fluid to operate the top if this is low the pump will not come on to open the top.

In general, without any testing or diagnosis, you could be dealing with any of the following:

* Open relay - Located at the pump unit
* Close relay - Located at the pump unit
* End position micro-switch
* The operating switch itself
* An issue with the pump unit, but I doubt this, due to the intermittent nature. However, do check the hydraulic fluid level.

The windows do not have to be down for the system to run.

The brake pedal must be pressed while operating the switch. There is a switch at the pedal that signals the convertible top system, but if your brake lights are functioning, the brake switch will not be at fault.

The system is pretty simple and some quick electrical tests should locate the faulty item.

The Bentley repair manual for the Z3 has all of the electrical wiring diagrams, for use in the diagnostics. You can purchase this at Bavarian Autosport 800-535-2002.

You can buy the filter from a dealer and buy the oil anywhere. Be carefull when installing the filter.

red liquid is usally transmission fluid

When you consider that dealerships charge $90.00 plus an hour for labor and suggested retail for the filter is probably close to $20.00 and oil is around $3.00 a quart, even at Walmart, then the price doesn't seem out of line. Expensive cars require expensive maintenance. Wait until you need a brake job or one of those silly electronic gimmicks acts up, then you really will be complaining about maintenance costs. In the meantime find yourself a Jiffy Lube.

Full synthetic only. Mobil 1, 5w-30. or Castrol. use Castrol. Every 15,000 or annually which ever comes first. DIY and save a bundle.

if you don't need the lighter itself to light up cigarrettes, then get rid of the lighter and using a test light or meter, make sure there is power inside thesocket where the lighter plugs into. if power is already there, then your done and ready to go, if power is not there, then check for an open fuse in your fuse panel...some lighter go directly to the battery, in that case make sure that the wires are not broken somewhere between the lighter socket and the battery

sounds like air or a bad radiator cap, thermostat