20 Most Recent 2002 Acura RSX - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I would blame the alarm system. I hope this helps.

Here is an outline of the procedure to remove the axle shafts in this vehicle:

It is kind of lengthy, but it should be a nice step-by-step to get through the process, Hope this helps...


Removal

Special Tool Required
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200

1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.

1. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheels.
2. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
3. If the driveshaft is removed, drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer:

• Manual transmission
• Automatic transmission

6. Hold the stabilizer ball joint pin (A) with a hex wrench (B), and remove the flange nut (C)Separate the front stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm.

1. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and remove the nut.
2. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm (C) with the special tool. Be careful not to dislodge the lower ball joint from the knuckle.

1. Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
2. Pry/tap the inboard joint (A) with a prybar, and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft (B) because the inboard joint may come apart. Draw the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal.

Left driveshaft



Right driveshaft

Installation

1. Install a new set ring onto the set ring groove of the driveshaft (left driveshaft).

2. Apply 0.5 - 1.0 g (0.02 - 0.04 oz) of specified grease to the whole splined surface (A) of the right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2 - 3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.



3. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) until the set ring (D) locks in the groove (E).



4. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B).

1. Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot (C). Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut at the ball joint. Torque the castle nut (D) to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening.
2. Install the new lock pin (E) into the pin hole from the inside of the vehicle.

7. Connect the front stabilizer link (A) to the lower arm. Hold the stabilizer link ball joint pin (B) with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the new flange nut (D).

1. Install a new spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
2. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel, then install the front wheel with the wheel nuts.
3. Refill the transmission with recommended transmission fluid:

• Manual transmission
• Automatic transmission

1. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.

The code means 'Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)' which means the computer thinks your catalytic convertor is not functioning properly. However, since the convertor itself doesn't have any sensors, how the computer knows this is via the O2 sensors (both before and aft of the cat). However, if the O2 sensor is dying or faulty it could give erroneous readings that would trigger this code, and the most common one to fail is the downstream, or Bank 1, sensor. The cat is very expensive to replace and usually that would be the last thing you would want to try. O2 sensor failure is quite common but you said you already changed it so.
Another reason you might see this code is if the internal coolant temp sensor is faulty or not functioning. If the computer thinks the coolant is warmer than it really is, it will run the fans more and keep the engine cooler. A cooler engine produces worse emissions than a hotter one so the cat wouldn't get up to the temperature it needs to be to function properly, thus triggering the code. Again, not an expensive sensor to replace and every dealer should be able to test them with a volt meter before blindly replacing them.

Finally, your original cat (and pre-cat) are warrantied by federal law for 8 yrs/80K miles so if your '02 is under 80K it should have been covered by Acura

The minimum rotor specs is stamped on the rotor and is different with each manufacture which sets the standard. Measure the thickness with a micro-meter. Replace the rotor if it is below or near the minimum or has been grooved by worn pads.

its easy
just trace the clutch pedal and you will see tow plugs you want the top one just stick a jumper wire in there
now you bypassed the switch you can start without touching clutch pedal

SOUNDS LIKE MISSFIRE
NEEDS TUNE UP MAY JUST BE A LOOSE PLUG WIRE
CHECK AIR FILTER --- FUEL FILTER CHANGED RECENTLY
MAY BE BAD FUEL PUMP
SCANNING FOR CODES COULD HELP PINPOINT PROBLEM

lock all the doors ,and giggle keys side to side and check the lights until they go off that the way you undo alarm system

DTC P1166: A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine.

Is DTC P1166 indicated?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at C101 (located under the right side of the dash), C401 (located under the left side of the dash), C402 (located under under the left side of the dash) the A/F Sensor relay, the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and the ECM/PCM.

1. Check the following fuse:

• No.14 OPTION (30A) fuse in under-hood fuse/relay box.
• No.2+B LAF HEATER (20A) fuse in under-dash fuse/relay box.
• No. 4ACG (10A) in under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are any of the fuses blown?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay and the fuses.

NO - Go to step 4.

1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A1 and A24, 30 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Go to step 5.

1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A22 and A24.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Go to step 10.

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

1. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E8 to body ground with a jumper wire, then measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A1 and A24.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Repair open or short in the wire between the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and ECM/PCM (A1).

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector A (31P) and the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) 4P connector.

1. Check for continuity between the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) 4P connector terminal No.3 and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay, A/F Sensor (Sensor 1) and ECM/PCM (A22).

NO - Go to step 13.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals E8 and A24.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the A/F Sensor (Sensor 1).

NO - Go to step 15.

1. Check for continuity in the wires between the A/F Sensor and the fuses.

Is there continuity?

YES - The wires are OK. Replace the A/F Sensor relay.

NO Repair open in the wire between the A/F Sensor relay and the fuses.

I had the same problem with our 2004 RSX. First the driver's side window now the passenger side. They tried to glue the window back twice (driver's side) and ended up having to replace the window and tabs. Now the passenger side did the same thing. My wife put up the window and it kept going, coming out of the track. I'm assuming the window will have to be replaced. Waiting for Acura's ruling. Must be a flaw in the tabs/glue...should have been a recall.

There's none available....One way is to get the problem fixed and have the shop turn it off OR, Unhook your battery cable for 15-30 seconds. That should reset it...Keep in mind that if hte problem isn't fixed, The light will simply come back on.....

99 times out of 100, if the O2 sensor has a heater circuit code, the sensor itself is the problem. The other 1 percent is usually wiring harness problems. Don't waste your time or money on an aftermarket sensor. I don't know exactly why, but every time I tried one, the car would come back in with "Oxygen/ Air Fuel Sensor Lean" codes. Get the sensor from the dealer.