20 Most Recent 2006 Audi A3 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

well either ur battery is low or you have an electrical problem try starting it then close the sun roof

Have the car scanned for codes at AutoZone (it's free), and post the codes up here. Then we can help you trace the problem.

battery is no good.or there is a short somwhere
Does it spark when you connect the possitive cable to the battery?

as for the alarm sounding and the boot open info it is probably a faulty boot contact, so the alarm thinks the boot is open therefore the circuit is open on the alarm , the car is thinking it has been broken into. it will also come up on the driver info that your boot is open too.

I think I would try getting the radiator flushed and cleaned. Check for blockage. Also you can change your thermostat. Last but not least check the expansion tank cap and make sure it is okay. If everything is okay the cold air could be because of a clog radiator core. Sometimes there could be a partial head gasket breech causing the presure to back up. Do a compression check for each cylinder.

you may also have shorted the keyfob battery if you touched the front and back at the same time.joe

It is due to a plastic clip inside the mechanism which breaks causing the cable get adrift. Either replace the plastic clip or repair it by using locktite or other adhesives.
Hope this helps

Patricio

might wanna have the dealer check it out or look at the blades on the turbo cause its bad to drive on damaged turbo

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Check out the videos, and also already answered on Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t6734476-crank_sensor https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+audi+A3+2.0+tdi.+crankshaft+sensor+location ..

NO THE PROBABLE CAUSE IS A VALVE THAT ADJUSTS THE TURBO PRESSURE!CHECK FOR DTCS FIRST AND LET ME KNOW!!

The following asumes only one wheel is hot and the e-brake is not engaged or possibly hung up from having been left on while the car was not driven for a while. Up north, BMW (Audi ?) brake disks tend to start rusting after about a week of inactivity. For a hung up e-brake, it is sometimes necessary to go back and forth to break the corrosion. A hot wheel usually indicates that the brake pad is dragging (i.e. the brake caliper piston is not returning into the brake caliper bore). A couple of checks: measure the brake disk temperature with a temperature gun on both brake disks of the same axle. If one is much higher, the caliper piston is probably sticking. Can also check for relatively large temperature difference with your hand-just do not touch the metal or you will get burned. Look at the brake disk for evidence of the outline of the brake pad that may have transferred to it indicating a very hot brake disk. Chock the car well, put into neutral with e-brake off, jack up "hot wheel" side and try to spin the tire. If a lot of drag, sticking caliper piston. Caliper replacement or disassembly for a thorough cleaning will probably be required. If this is necessary, you should do both brake disks and pads and consider doing both calipers on that axle depending on age and corrosion condition.

If you have replaced 4 sensors the problem must be somewhere else in the system. Exactly which sensor is it as there are many sensors built into an engine and transmission? You could get a Good Auto electrician to check the vehicle to see if there is another cause of the problem.

crank sensor fault

It could be a few different things.
Did the check engine light come on before it quit running?

Most likely the disc player has a failed loading system, very common, pull it out and have it rebuilt.