20 Most Recent 2005 Pontiac Sunfire - Page 5 Questions & Answers

loose washer hose from pump to squirters. Sometimes the pump propeller will wear out, motor runs but pump on the end of said motor don't. Inspect the pump hoses and make sure sqirters not stopped up with wax, you can take them off and blow through them bakward to remove some clogs.

Get a tranny from a junkyard. Just make sure it has a guarantee to work, if only a week.

Radiator cap would where theradiator is! and the drain plug at the bottom. Make sure you add anti freeze if required in your area.

Counterclockwise. Lefty loosey, righty tighty. :)

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.

Have you checked the freon pressures to see if it is low, and is the radiator fan running ?

Should be in a housing just at the motor end of the upper radiator hose. Trace the upper hose down under the alternator.

Pull the hose off (be sure you have a way to catch the coolant first!) Then you unbolt the thermostat bolts and pull out the thermostat. REMEMBER which way it goes---the part with the "nose" points toward the radiator. Then clean both surfaces of the housing really good, and put on a new thermostat gasket. You can seal it with some light white grease, but just enough to make the gasket stick. Don't use goopy silicone sealant! Tighten the bolts but don't go crazy. Just enough to strain the muscles in your arm using a 3/8 drive wrench. Do NOT put your back into it. NICE and SNUG. Now you have to fill up the plastic reservoir tank. Then you run the engine for for just 30 seconds or so, then shut it off. Now you have to find the BLEED SCREWS and open them up so as to let air out of the cooling system. Then close the air bleeds. Repeat this filling up and running the engine briefly until coolant comes out of the air bleeds. Then top off the reservoir tank.

I think one air bleed is by the pipe where you put in the oil. Once you find it, look for another one like it. Sorry I don't have a manual for your car.

Given that most of the trouble codes are for the O2 sensor, I think I would change it. The multiple misfires could be because of improper fuel/air mixture caused by a bad sensor. Disconnect the negative(-) battery terminal then change the sensor. Disconnecting the negative(-) should reset the computer and allow the fuel/air mixture to return to default allowing the engine to start.
P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 - O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

The is not a cut-off switch. What seems to be the problem? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check for failing harmonic balancer (rubber failing between hub and pulley). If auto drop the inspection plate and check flex plate for cracks and loose bolts.. If it is a .knock remove plug leads one at a time and find when the noise is less and that will be the big end or main failing.

You might not need a tumble, the sys is controled by the key, and transponder, and the ecm. Most auto locks smiths can come out and check the system, might just need a key re-programed

Check the O2 may be all carboned up.

check fuses.