Top 20 2006 Nissan Altima - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Here is a link to your cars owners manual website... I hope this helps..

www.courtesyparts.com/pdf/2006-Nissan-Altima.pdf

(Copy and paste to browser) If you find that this is information was helpfulto you, please rate me and leave a comment as this will encourage me to do morefree work for you and others. And please let me know if there's anything else Icould help you with. Without any inputswe cannot proceed assisting... Thank you for using FIXYA! Best regards,
Junior

First offin order to remove the bearings from the knuckle you're going to need a hydrolic press. What I have given you below are instructions on removing the knuckle. From there you will need to find a machine shop that will press your bearings out and in for you and then you will be able to reinstall in reverse order as the instructions. I did not include the instructions on removing the brake caliper & please be sure to read all of this through at least once before you begin so you are sure you will be able to do it. These pictures are the biggest I was able to make and be able to post on here because there is a size limit. If you need bigger pictures or any other instructions you can email me at [email protected] with details of what you are needing so I am sure I send you the correct stuff back. I hope this helps and good luck.

Hi Judy, sounds like your Altima has gone in to the secruity immobilzer mode. Your car thinks you are trying to steal it!
Depending on what factory system you have installed will determine how to remedy it...

Here is the basic relearn procedure---Lock & unlock your doors with the KEY.
1) Turn the key to the ON position and wait 15 seconds.

2) Turn the key to the OFF position and wait 30 seconds.

3) Repeat steps 1 & 2.

If problems still remains, follow the same procedure with the valet key or another key that is registered to that immobilizer system on the vehicle.
Also, check your owners manual---there should be more security advice in there.

I hope this helps...holler back if you need more assistance...

I fixed a problem like this about ten years ago, but I don't remember what I did. I do remember that the problem was under the console between the bucket seats. There is an ajustment that may have loosened up in your case, that would have to be tightened up. I probably don't remember because it was so easy. It's usually hard projects that I remember because they torture me so much. GOOD LUCK.

maybe the batteries in your key fab are going bad do your doors still lock when you use the key fab

Nissan calls the speed sensor a revolution sensor. In the picture below you will see its location. I hope this helps and good luck.

several things can make the a/c blow hot air. if the a/c was working but barely blowing then you may want to check for a clogged cabin air filter(it is behind the glove box in the a/c box). since the a/c is blowing hot all the time now, try releasing the freon out of the system or have it recovered into a recovery machine. you may have OVERCHARGED the system and the high pressure switch is keeping the compressor from working.the best thing to do is have the system pressures checked to see if the low side is 35-45 psi and the high side is175-225 psi with the compressor working. if the pressures are not within these parameters then there is another problem.

they are under the vave cover

Hi!

The problem is most likely a fuse that must be replaced

The fuses for powerwindows are located inside the car, under the steering.

Start to count the fuses from top-left, usualy it's first fuse and the fuse no. 6
Replace only by same rating fuses.

Please let me know if it helped.

Best regards

There can be a faulty connection or break of the wire that goes to the light. This can be in the boot hinges harness as it can get damaged in this section.
If the tail brake lamps are workingg then the fault is only in this section as it is normally coupled to the tail brake circuit .So remove the lights and trace the wire down the harness to find the open wire.

The problem is that I can do my best to explain it to you but I'm not sure how mechanically inclinde you are if you want to be the one trying to do the repair. Your computer (ECM) in the vehicle is the one that controls the throttle or as you push the gas pedal there is a sensor that tells the ECM what position the gas pedal is in, then the ECM sends a signal to another sensor which will tell the throttle how much to open or close (faster or slower). the possible cause for this could be a number of reasons but the most common is one of those 2 sensors or an open wire or a loose connection which is not all that likely. When your car went down to 40 MPH your ECM (computer) put the vehicle in what's called a fail safe mode which simply means you will not be able to go above 2500 RPM's which will make it do exactly as you described. I'm not sure if you or a friend will have the tools you need to do some tests but you will need some basic tools like wrenches and stuff as well as a voltage meter. Below is a picture of the electrical circuit I am talking about. If you want I can give you the location of the sensors, where the numbers are that the wires go to I can also give you detailed pictures and instructions on what the voltage should be at each of those wires which in turn will tell you where your problem is and then you can make the repair as needed. after the repair is made there is a simple step by step procedure to teach the new sensor how to work with your ECM. I will need to make up a file and give you step by step instruction. If you would like this you can email me at [email protected] remind me again what's happening along with the make, model, year and engine size of your vehicle. I don't mind helping and it won't cost you anything. I may not be able to get right back to you as I own a repair shop and am in and out of the office which is where I am now but it would be within a couple of hours. In any case I hope I have been able to explain to you what it means. The bad thing is you computer and sensors basically controls the car so you are at its mercy. Again I don't mind giving you the information and here is the wiring diagram i was talking about.

use both hands and push towards back window and then pull up on the back of it then you twist out the socket. insatll in reverse order

This seems to be a common problem. Sometimes something like a pen or other items find their way to the shifter linkage and it can cause the linkage to bind preventing it going into park etc. Or you may have a bad shifter cable. Remove the housing around the shifter and see if anything did get in the way of the shifter. While the housing is of, move the selector up and down from park to drive. This will give you a better view of what is happening.

Look under the dash, on the brake pedal arm. There are one or two switches that activate brake lights and shift unlock. Check for loose mounting nut or a missing rubber nubber. Is the brake pedal coming all the way back up? Look on the floor for something not usually found there. These switches are adjustable and it may be as simple as adjusting them. Have a helper look for brake lights on and shift lever unlocked while you push and release the switches with your finger. Depress the brake pedal to get it out of the way. Remember to set the park brake first. Could just be a bad switch or loose connector. Check fuses and the bulbs.

This is normally caused by the Crank Sensor. The Engine Speed signal is given by the Crank sensor, not the vehicle speed sensor. Most people get confused and replace the speed sensor instead.

So to resolve your problem you will need to replace the crank sensor. The engine speed sensor code is always related to the crank sensor failure.

Thanks Jay!

the fuse is in the IPDM. which is right next to the alternator and it has a black cover and when you take the cover off you will see IPDM, It will have a bunch of fuses and relays. You can tell by looking underneath the cover where exactly the fuse is.

Your vehicle isn't like the older vehicles to where you can just put a timing light on it and set it. The computer/ECM sets the timing for via inputs from sensors. I gave you a desciption below. There is however some procedures you can "teach" or "relearn" your ECM to "kind of" reset the timing. The big thing is the volume air control learning which is a big part of the ECM setiing the timing. I gave you the procedure to "teach" your gas pedal it's proper position as well as a procedure to "teach the volume air control to set the time (without a diagnostic computer since I am assuming you don't have in your tool box). This is about the only way to set the timing for your vehicle without investing big $$$ in computer equipment/diagnostic tools. This is right out of my factory service manual I use here at my shop. If you do need any more information pretty much about anything for your vehicle, feel free to write me an email at [email protected] with your question. Please be detailed so I send the correct information if you do email me. Don't worry, if I have the info and send it to you there is no cost. Anyhow, I hope this helps you and good luck.

horn under the hood its bolted on a bracket connected to hood release latch.front of ac condensor.

just because a fuse "looks" good doesn't mean it is, locate the radio fuse and check it with a meter, if you don't have a meter, replace it anyway ,, what the heck, a dollar fuse vs what the dealer wants isn't such a bad idea

This is quite an easy problem haha. I am currently doing my remote start for the same car right now and I know that issue you are having. After 1 or two full failed attempts to start your car the ECU knows not to turn on because it is locked. You have to put the key in the key cylinder, turn it to the on position but don't start the car, then count to 5 and then turn off the car and pull out the key for 5 seconds. Do this for a total of 3 times and the system resets. As for getting rid of the immobilizer that will be unlikely due to the fact that it sends info to the ECU to authorize it to turn on the car. However, you can bypass it like I did and then you will be able to use remote start and all the other good stuff. There are 3 types of ways to bypass the immobilizer but it will cost from 30 to 50 bucks.