20 Most Recent 2005 Nissan Xterra - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The warning light comes on for a variety of reasons, anything from an ignition problem to vacuum leak. You can take it to your local dealership or auto parts store and they can usually hook up a reader to the computer in your car and read the trouble code which well tell you exactly why the light came on.
If you would like to read the code yourself here is what you do: To check the fault code yourself from the comfort of your own garage, put the ECM in "Diagnostic Test Mode II" by doing the following:

1) Sit your **** in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds. (If you've got bad ankles, give up now and drive the car to the dealer.)
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold it down for about ten seconds until the MIL light begins flashing.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code. Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.) The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.

The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode. You can look up the trouble codes in the ESM/FSM; there's a bunch of them. In the ESM, refer to page EC-639. Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.

You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).

replace the oil sending unit

Sounds like you have a bearing-s going bad in the drive line someplace [ wheel bearing, u-joint, Diff gears, etc.] But may be a loose wheel.

take it to any Autozone and they will scan your system free!!! good luck, If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

This is a very common issue with these clocks. I have a repair service, check out www.autoclockrepair.com. I have removal instructions, etc there. Please le tme know if you have any questions, I would be happy to assist, thanks!

Hi,
I just had this problem one month ago. It was a little cooling fluid leak. The garage fixed the leak and put some more fluid and everything works now.
Best solution...don't go to the dealer!

It could be a bad gauge or a check valve could be stuck or blocked causing your oil pressure to be too high. Have your oil pressure checked at a shop.

http://www.autorecalls.us/aut-04/recalls/2005/nissan/xterra/74687.html

There are recalls on certain 2005 Nissan Xterras for a faulty ECM unit. I just found out mine is part of the recall. Give this website a look see and call the number to find out if yours is as well.

NO. just drive it a few days. the computer will keep testing it, and if it keeps passing the tests, it will turn off the light by itself.

You'll need to find out what is causing the light to come on. There will be codes stored in the computers memory. These codes will help narrow down the problem to a specific system that the computer controls or monitors.

You will need a code reader to get the codes. The can range from approx. $40 on up.

The next option is to call you local parts store and see if they can read trouble codes for you. Most times they will do this for free.

Post the codes here and we will be happy to help you out further.

The last option is to bring it to a shop and have them preform a diagnostic procedure. There will usually be a charge for this that includes pulling the codes and the time to identify and confirm the source of the problem. You will then be given an estimate for the repairs needed.

Lastly make sure the gas cap is on or on tight. This is a pretty common and will cause the check engine light to come on with a code stored for a large EVAP leak. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

All you have to do is pull up firmly on the center consuel (the plastic console area that surround the shifter). If it helps, try to pry your fingers underneath the edges adjacent to the carpet. Carefully tug up and the center piece will pop right out. Once that is done you are home free... you will see a couple of sets of screws that hold in the dash portion of the console. Remove those and the console piece and the radio can be taken out very easily.

i hope this helps you

P0171 is a lean oxygen sensor code for bank 1 on your engine.
It indicates that there is a lean condition (engine not getting enough
fuel or getting too much air) on that side of your engine.
Bank 1 is always the side of the engine where #1 cylinder is
located. In your case it is front-most cylinder on the right side
of the engine. (As viewed from the driver's seat)
So bank one is the passenger side.

If there are any other engine control codes, you need to fix those
first, as they may be the cause of the lean condition.

If that is the only code you are getting, then diagnostic testing
needs to be performed to determine the actual cause of the problem.

Possible causes are:

* Intake air / vacuum leaks
* Faulty / dirty fuel injector(s)
* Incorrect fuel pressure (Likely to cause both P0171 and P0174 at the same time)
* Low fuel volume (Pressure OK) (restricted fuel filter,etc.)
* Fauly Mass Airflow Sensor
* incorrect PCV hose connection
* Exhaust gas leaks
* Faulty Air Fuel Ratio Sensor

fuse, relay or brake switch--hopefully not the ABS controller.
First check fuse 20--I think it's inside. If godd, go to next step.

The relay is usually in the engine compartment relay box, but may also be near the fuse in the car.
Swap the relay with a similar one. The horn is my favorite. If this fixes it, buy a relay for the horn.
If not, go to next step.

The brake light switch is above the brake pedal. It may have one or two connectors on it. Looks to me like yours should only have one. I have pasted a picture of it below. First look to see if the button is coming out when you push on the pedal. If not, the spring is broke inside--replace switch.
If button works, pull the connector off and use a big paper clip to connect the terminals inside the connector. If this puts the lights on, replace the switch. If not, go to the next step.

The EBCU receives the actual brake switch signal and then turns on the brake light relay. You can interrogate the relay socket to see if the EBCU is sending that ground signal to the relay socket. Use a 12 volt test light to check the socket. Hook the test light clip to engine or chassis ground, then probe the socket terminals. 2 of them should be hot. Leave your probe in one of the hot ones and take the clip off the ground point. Then have someone step on the brakes while you probe the other 2 terminals with your light clip. If one of them lights the test light brightly , the signal is coming thru. You can also verify this by pushing the relay into the socket while some has their foot on the brake. The relay shouild click if the signal is there. If the signal is there, the problem you have in the wiring from the relay socket to the brake lights.
If the signal is not there, the problem is with the ABS control unit (ouch).

Let me know if you have any questions.

Well that is a indicator something is wrong, if possible have check and find out code. That will tell you what the problem is? Some auto parts places check codes for free