Today I got in my 2004 Nissan Maxima and turned the key to notice that it whirlled alot before starting and when it did my Service Engine Soon light came on. So I said hmm...then I put it in reverse backed up put it in drive and started to accelerate only to notice that I was barely moving. I had no power. I have the variable transmission so I pushed it over to manual and noticed that my display said 5th gear. After stopping and turning the car off and trying it again it was fine till I turned it off again then the same problem all over again....whirl, whirl whirl, Service engine soon and then 5th gear only. PLEASE HELP!! was driving on the interstate and my transmission locked into 5th gear. It didn't go back to being normal until I stopped the car put it in park and turned it off. Now it's shifting pretty harsh. Had a mechanic look into it and he said I need a new trans. My trans oil is also pretty dark and I just had it flushed a year ago (20,000) miles. Any help is appreciated.
This is most likely one of your cam shaft sensors. The reason your transmission goes to 5th gear and stays there is because the car automatically goes into "safe mode". This prevents you from running the car on high RPM's which decreases the chance of causing more damage to the engine.
Depending on the code you get from the check engine light, it will be one of the cam-shaft sensors or the crank shaft sensor. A code reader will answer that question.
Often the sensor just fails or oil gets into the connectors which prevents proper reading. This sometimes goes away temporarily when engine is hot but problem will return.
To replace the cam shaft sensors you are looking at approximately 30 min of work. Its a tight fit but not a difficult job.
Cam shaft sensors are about $80. Not sure how much crank haft sensor is.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
cam position sensor for 2004 maxima where is it located ? it it easy to replace
WHEN YOU STAND ON THE FRONT OF THE CAR YOU ONE IS RIGHT BELOW OF THE INTAKE WHICH IS BANK 2 OR THE ONE CLOSE TO FIREWALL , BANK 1 ONE IS ON SAME SIDE NEXT TO THE RADIATOR BUT THEY BOTH ON THE CAM RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE, THE EASIEST WAY TO IDENTIFY THEM IS THAT THEIR CONNECTOR IS GREEN, ONCE YOU LOCATE THEM THE CLIP NEEDS TO BE PUSHED DOWN TOWARD THE SENSOR FOR THE CONNECTOR TO BE RELEASED, ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CONNECTOR THERE WILL BE ONLY A 10MM SCREW HOLDING THE SENSOR PULL IT OUT , THE SAME SETTING THE NEW ONE PUSH IT ALL THE WAY IN , THIGHT THE 10MM SCREW, CONNECT IT BACK AND YOU'RE DONE,BUT FOR THE ONE ON THE BACK SOMETIMES MIGHT BE NECESARY FOR YOU TO TAKE THE INTAKE OFF....HOPEFULLY IS NOT YOUR CASE....
Good luck!!! and if you need the crank for hard starting on hot/warm, it is located on the botton middle section on the transmission is the only cable that goes down to a small piece of metal and it is held by a 10mm screw only to protect the sensor, you will se the sensor once you remove that small about 6-8 inches piece of metal. Then you'll be able to unescrew the 10mm screw that holds the crank position sensor. when you pull it off you'll be able to see the fly wheel inside the transmission...
you all enjoy your rides out htere!!!
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
Hazards came on by themselves. They will not shut off even after the car is turned off. There are no other issues.
The only advice I will offer on this subject is: Get an auto electrician to look at it, if you do not understand electrics you can soon cause a fire or worse.It might be a relay faulty or the hazard switch could be stuck , press it a few times to see, if you have no luck the get the garage to look at it.
Good luck
Posted on Apr 05, 2014
brake lights work, but not tail lights. have replaced the fuse once. it's happened again. also, the inside lights will not turn off by themselves.
hey i just fixed mine with the same exact problem, look, all you have to do is open your 3rd fuse box which is next to your washing fluid on the passenger´s side under the hood, for that you need to remove the cover wich is pretty easy (5 staples all you need is a thin flat screw driver to lift the center of the staple and then the whole staple) then you take off the cover and then you open the fuse cover, you are looking for the TAILLIGHT fuse wich is the first on the upper row from right to left if you are standing on the passenger side looking towards the drivers side (you can also look for that fuse in the fuse box cover diagram) remembre is a 15A fuse, replace it, jaja and thats how you save some dollars. saludos desde guadalajara mexico.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
2004 Nissan maxima fuse box diagrams both under hood and in door
2004 Nissan Maxima - Trunk will not open, tried using the key fob - nothing, tried the lever on drivers door, nothing - still won't open.
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
Where is bank 2 located for the camshaft position sensor on a 2004 nissan maxima
bank two is the bank of cylinders that is closer to the radiator...not the firewall side.
Posted on Apr 30, 2011
I have a 2004 nissan maxima on a cold start I hear a rattling noise until the car is warm and you will not hear it again until the car sits for about an hour. What is the problem?
I have the same issue with my 2004 maxima.The service techs said it was the timing chain tensioners .Since they are hydaulic and they powered by the oil in the car .It is recommended to purge the the engine every time the noise starts to come back. I brought some an it really freaking work because I started to run it into a tree and go buy a toyota
Posted on Aug 16, 2008
how can i fix it? all speakers work, amp works, fuses are new and all wires are secured.
Make sure the power cables are properly connected to the head unit. Especially make sure the negative lead is properly connected to the frame of your car. Another thing to check is the remote wire, make sure that's connected properly to your head unit.
Posted on Oct 05, 2012
need schematic or diagram of where vacuum lines to into the Engine
Most will lead to throttle body area....
Posted on Sep 18, 2014
Over winter, I noticed a ticking noise in the engine on the first cold start of the day but would go away after 2-3 minutes. Over time it would get louder and last longer. Because oil changes seemed to help, mechanic thought it could be bad oil?? Now, 6 months later, getting louder and occurs on every start cold start. I have110,000 and getting plugs changed. Any suggestions for mechanic to look for?
Sounds like a stuck valve lifter. I'd use some oil additive for unsticking lifters.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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