20 Most Recent 2004 Nissan Maxima - Page 7 Questions & Answers

My best advise is to get a Chiltons/Haynes repair manual that covers your year/make/model. There is an entire section on this area of your car, together with a fuse/relay panel schematic and troubleshooting. Some interior light systems are like older exterior lights, in that, if one burns out, the rest won't work. Also, when you say your checked your fuses, did you test them or just do a visual check. With the old cylinder glass fuses it was easy to see if they were blown, but newer ones, not so much. And, as with any electrical system, if someone tries, or has tried, to add stereo equipment, light effects, etc, it can mess up the whole thing if a professional isn't the one doing the work.

Do a compression check on the cylinders. You could have bad piston rings. Also have the catalytic convert check. it could be clogged.

check the fan blower motor under the hood, make sure all electrically wires are good & tight, also check your fuses

The only time I've had a problem with an alternator repeatedly failing is due to improper shimming and the pully wasn't aligned with with the cam and crank shaft which in turn put a tweak in the alternator pully and strain on the bearings. I must point out, this was on a 1978 Chev with V belts. The one that failed a week later, did you have it tested to be sure it failed? Same question for the most recent one. If the alternator are not indeed failing, I'l look to either the ECM or the battery cables/wiring from alternator to battery.

Suggest you ask a local mechanic to have a look as this sort of fault could be anything electrical -from a failing computer to a crank sensor and from afar i have no idea ,yes i know its not the answer you want and iam not a technical writer who has access to all the data to give you a what you think is a answer .iam a back street mechanic with a big hammer who knows from experiance that this sort of problem is horrendous to fault find but do try taking all the plugs out and making sure the gap is 25th ,never mind what they say in the book this vehicle should have a gap of 50th and all that go back to basics and that is if the gap is too wide then the current cannot jump it but with the build up of the RPM then the alternator is pushing out more volts and this will help the coils to produce enough spark to jump the gap .Us old fleet fitters who could do anything in our time before fancy electronics come in would check for the plug gap first then the points and distributor cap /rotor arm andwear on these items but who needs us old timers now ?¿

Hey i changed out both cam position sensor and the car is still stuck in 5th gear once it warms up. What could be the problem

Get a Chiltons/Haynes repair manual that covers your car. The trouble shooting" section should help. If your car has a factory installed or after-market anti-theft system, this may well be going haywire.

its probably sticking check where it goes to on your transmission

Maxima.org

Take a picture before disasm.

you need to test at drivers door master switch with a test light or volt meter to see if switch is sending voltage to that wire if switch is working and no voltage at door connector,slit open the rubber boot for that door and ck for broken wire in that area this is a prone area that flexes the wire when opening and closing the door causing wire to break

It may vary

Had the same problem ****** slips, had to rebuild transmission.

tick over too slow, air con takes a lot of power,

Warped brake rotors most likely cause. Other possibilities include wheel bearings, u-joints.

Sounds like a failed transaxle You drive 20 miles or use a vehicle for days like that,you ruined it,period,no relearn will fix internal damage Not many transaxle's see 100,000 miles or ten years