2003 Mercedes-Benz SL-Class - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Where are you reading this code? I need the standard OBD2 fault code that is read through the diagnostic port under the dash, borrow a reader repost

You'll need to use a Active Body Control Conversion kit made especially for your car. The LAST thing you want to do, is to throw junkyard parts on it and have the hydraulic system "dead-head" and burst somewhere.

These mega-expensive ABC repairs are nightmares! I've seen repair bills get as high as $22k! Do yourself a HUGE favor and get away from the ABC forever with a Active Body Control Conversion

These mega-expensive ABC repairs are nightmares! I've seen repair bills get as high as $22k! Do yourself a HUGE favor and get away from the ABC forever with a Active Body Control Conversion.

Fuse Terminal Cable ID (fused) Fused function Rating in amperes (A) F1 30 - Wiper park position heater relay (K40/2kA) F2 30 - High pressure and return flow pump relay (K40/2kF) F3 30 - Steering column forward/back adjustment relay 1 (K40/2kD) Steering column forward/back adjustment relay 2 (K40/2kE) F4 30 - Steering column height adjustment relay 1 (K40/2kI) Steering column height adjustment relay 2 (K40/2kJ) F5 15R - Wiper On and Off relay (K40/2kH) F8 30 RD 0.75 Central gateway control unit (N93) F9 30 PKWH 2.5 Left door control unit (N69/1) F10 15 BKVT 0.75 BKVT 0.75 BKVT 0.75 Left front headlamp unit (E1) Right front headlamp unit (E2) Xenon headlamp control unit (E1n1, E2n2) 15 RDGN 0.75 Restraint systems control unit (N2/7) F11 15R BKYE 1.0 Circuit 15R/30 cutoff relay (K75) F12 15R - Spare F13 30 RDGN 1.5 ABC control unit (N51/2) F14 15R BKGN 0.75 Windshield washer fluid pump (M5/1) F15 30 RDGN 1.0 Data link connector (X11/4) F16 15R PKYE 1.0 Valid for code (855) TELE AID: D2B telephone and TELE AID transmitter/receiver (A35/17) 15R PKYE 1.0 Valid for code (853) MB standard telephone: D2B telephone transmitter/receiver (A35/13) F17 15R RDYE 0.5 Vehicle-sensitive seat belt lock sensor (A60) F18 15R - Spare F19 15 BKYE 1.00 Valid for engines 112.973, 113.963/992: Fused via circuit 15 connector sleeve (Z3/29): Cylinder 1 ignition coil (T1/1) Cylinder 2 ignition coil (T1/2) Cylinder 3 ignition coil (T1/3) Cylinder 4 ignition coil (T1/4) Cylinder 5 ignition coil (T1/5) Cylinder 6 ignition coil (T1/6) Cylinder 7 ignition coil (T1/7) Cylinder 8 ignition coil (T1/8) F20 15 BKGN 0.75 Data link connector (X11/4) F21 15R BKYE 0.5 Instrument cluster (A1) F22 30 RDYE 0.5 Instrument cluster (A1) F23 30 RDWH 1.0 RDWH 1.0 AAC [KLA] control and operating unit (N22) Coolant circulation pump (M13) F24 30 RDWH 0.5 Stop lamp switch (S9/1) F25 30 RDYE 0.75 Alarm signal horn (H3) F26 30 RDBU 0.5 Lower control panel control unit (N72) F27 30 RDVT 2.5 Left front seat adjustment control unit with memory (N32/1)

You could have any number of problems. The 2 things you can easily do are make sure the trunk partition panel is in place to allow top operation and make sure you have at least 12 volts at your battery(starting the cat should take care of that). Beyond that you really need diagnostic equipment that can communicate with the top control unit to figure out why the top isn't working. Possible causes are low fluid level due to a leak in the system, failed position switch or broken wire between switch and control unit, or a failed pump, among others.

As you stand at the front it is on the left

try either peachparts forum,or benzworld

PERHAPS A FUSE UNDER HOOD OR IN TRUNK. COULD BE A BODY CONTROL MODULE

your problem is the fluid is low and doesn't have enough fluid in the pump to operate. you can add fluid at the rear underneath your spare tire. the fluid is a special blend only at mercedes benz dealer. anything else will cause the top cylinders to fail and it is very costly to repair. the fluid is about $20. It leaks because you have a leaking seal in the top cylinder. Mercedes knew this would happen this is why it leaks right in front of your face hard to ignore that huh.

Look thrue the owners manual for the fuse panel and relays.Relays may be under hood or inside somewhere.

1. Move the sunshade rearward to the open position.
2. Separate the mechanism covers (2) from the tabs (1) on the glass panel.
3. Verify the sunroof glass panel is in the fully closed position.
4. Loosen the forward attaching screws (2) on each side enough to permit the front of the glass to adjust up or down.
5. Adjust the front surface of the sunroof glass panel 0.00 mm to 2 mm (0.00 in. to 0.08 in.) below the top surface of the roof.
6. Tighten the front glass panel attaching screws to 5.5 N•m (49 in. lbs.).
7. Loosen the rear screws (2) on each side enough to make the rear adjustment.
8. Adjust the rear surface of the sunroof glass panel 0.00 mm to 2 mm (0.00 in. to 0.08 in.) above the top surface of the roof.
9. Tighten the rear glass panel attaching screws to 5.5 N•m (49 in. lbs.).
10. Check for proper fit. If not OK, repeat glass panel adjustment.
11. Position the mechanism covers (2) over the glass tabs (1) between the locating features and seat fully.
12. Verify sunroof operation and alignment.

There is a reprogramming from chrysler for the sunroof for recalibrating the sunroof for flushness also. the dealer will charge for this .You might want to do this first and then the adjust if not satisfied with the results.

its no lying to you it has to go to dealer for repair due to how system is designed you need the proper scan tool to repair problem.

The bulb just pulls out.

Inner tire wear (on one side of the tire) in an indication of too much toe-out. It needs an alignment. Of course, there are several worn suspension components that could cause this type of wear. Any good alignment shop would be able to spot them.

NEW HEATER CONTROL UNIT HAS TO BE REPROGRAMMED TO THE ECM BEFORE IT WILL WORK.

if your car has a shift lock, put your foot firmly on the break, unlock the shift lock, put it into neutral, then start the car. be careful because the car will roll if you let go of the brake. hopefully you can shift into drive once the car is started. if not, other things it could be is the shift cable.

first get in to the car close the doors and shutters switch off radio and a/c then witch on ignition, when you press the brake can you hear clicking sound in shift liver, release brake and do press it again and listen, if you can clearly hear click sound, it's mean brake light switch is OK. could be faulty safety release lock in shift liver control, is this information helped you?

1 of two things. They are hyd lifters so there is no adjustment to be done. So it is either a lack of oil pressure or an odd thing but does happen, a small piece of derbis will get into the pressure bleed hole, the oil is push out as the camshaft comes up to open the valve, the lifter will collapes and not re-pump up due to the hole being closed off. Im quite sure AMG rquires Mobil1 oil, sometimes extream temps either higher or lower will change viscosity requirements. you may need the 15W 50 to maintain enough pressure where you are at or it is possible the oil is broke down so bad that it is no longer able to maintain the correct amount of PSI. 1st things first. Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the motor, observe pressure after complete warm up. If it is too low go to the 15W 50 weight oil. If it is an oil pressure issue two things should happen. 1 the lifter making noise should be farthest from the pump. If not you should do a very carefull inspection check psi with mechanical gauge 1st if it's low, then you'll have to find the causeor cause. if psi is within spec you have a bad lifter IE: dirt or collapsed spring.

you need to make sure your shift interlock is working. When you depress the brake pedal listen very close for a "click" if you dont hear one then it is not working. then you have to determine why.