20 Most Recent 2003 Chevrolet Tracker - Page 8 Questions & Answers

That means its not meeting the minimum thermostat regulating temp. Its saying that its not warming up.. If it feels like its as hot as usual. Its probably the temp, sensor.

To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following:

1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the rubber

cover and socket from
the headlamp.

3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by

pressing down and moving the metal retainer away

from you.

4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture.
5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.
You can get a free owners manual at this site (where i got your info)
http://www.automanualonline.com/base/chevrolet/tracker/2003/2003-chevrolet-tracker-owners-manual/
It's free just enter the code they give you and Save or Open it. I'd save it. The site is safe.

In the back of the your engine there is what looks like a thermostat housing that attaches to on of your heater hose that's where your coolant is coming from

The o2 readings should be fluxuating between .010 - .099 volts when warmed up. If you get no reading from a sensor, then it's either the sensor or the connection to it. All OBD2 type sensors [ 1996- present ] have a heater circuit, sometimes these fail and the sensor is slow to respond.
You will need a scanner that will display the sensor voltages to find out what is happening.

You could check the brakelight switch located on the brake pedal linkage. Sometimes they move out of adjustment, sometimes they fail. The ones I've seen are usually plastic and the threads strip off so the jamb nut won't hold the switch in place correctly. It should be round (or at least the part with the mounting nut should be round) with a plug with 2 or 3 wires going into the back and located so that the brake pedal lever moves away from the switch when you push on the pedal. If you deem that it needs to be replaced the switch should be available at most auto parts stores.

Hello Brent.

Your Chevy has a split diagonal braking system.
This means that one circuit supplys pressure to the right front and left rear and the other the left front and right rear.
So if your front brakes are working that means the master cylinder is OK.
Where are you checking for pressure?
Have you opened the bleeder screws to verify?
The proper way is at the rear bleed screws on the wheel cylinder or caliper (depends if you have rear drum or rear disc brakes)
If that is where you are checking the bleed screws could be plugged up with rust or debris.
Pull them right out and verify no fluid.
To each rear wheel there is a proportioning valve that limits pressure as full pressure would lock the rears first.
Perhaps these valves are not flowing.
If you could provide me with what you have done so far I'll continue to help you solve the problem.
Thank you
.KL

Look for your blower speed control switch, usually located in your blower fan housing to keep it cool you can usually tell when you see it ,if it burnt out. or do a continuity test.

The car will not run if alternator is not charging the battery.The battery gets charged by alternator when car is getting driven.But if alternator is faulty then it will not charge the car battery and car will die after few hours of driving.But as you mentioned in your question,that you replaced the alternator.So if we consider alternator is good then ,the problem is indicated towards the battery.If the battery is weak then it will not get properly charged by alternator and car will stop.Get the alternator as well as the battery voltage checked.The alternator will show 13.5 volt and battery will show 12 volt if they both are proper. If its faulty then voltage will differ.Many a times second hand or after-market compatible alternator and batteries dont last longer.The original parts from service center/dealer are always advisable.Because they are made as per car specification and cars requirement. ------------ Check out.Keep updated.This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

almost certainly a fault with the voltage regulator built into the alternator. the alternator needs to be checked properly

Start with the cheapest solution first and work your way up. Start with checking the charging system fuses. Next check to see that your battery is still good, and clean the battery terminals and clamps. Most likely, the probelm is with the alternator. Your local auto parts store can usually test it for you. I would recommend pulling it from the vehicle and taking it in, rather than driving the vehicle since it may leave you stranded...

Both of those problems can be caused by a dirty air filter. Also if you haven't replace the fuel filter, I would look in to doing that. 02 sensors don't usually make an engine die, they will cause crappy gas mileage. Does the vehicle have any codes?

Open the hood and locate the accessory belt routing diagram that is stamped to the top flat surface of the radiator shroud. Use the routing diagram to properly route the new belt around each accessory pulley.
Look on the front of the engine between the alternator and the power steering pump and locate the automatic belt tensioner. Use the pulley that is attached to the end of the tensioner to loosen the tension from the belt.
Position a breaker bar and a 14 mm socket onto the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley. Turn the breaker bar clockwise to loosen the tension from the belt. Slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and slowly release the breaker bar.
Slide the belt out from around all of the engine accessory pulleys. Pull the belt around each of the fan blades and up out of the engine compartment.
Slide the new belt around each of the fan blades and around each of the accessory pulleys as directed by the belt routing diagram.
Turn the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and the 14 mm socket again. Slide the belt around the tensioner pulley and slowly release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out of the engine compartment.
Crank the engine for ten to fifteen seconds to finish seating the ribs on the inside of the belt to the grooves of each accessory pulley. Turn the engine off.

hi the a/t switch changes shift points for the transmission n is normal driving conditions. and p for power will make the transmission have higher shift points liek higher rpm more power and slightly worse gas mileage

hope this helps




plz coment vote or reply if need more help

Hi, you may have a partially shorted injector solenoid. Recommend you pull the connectors off and check the impedance of each injector with an ohmmeter. If one is a lot lower than the others, you have a bad injector. If that isn't the problem, your fuel pump runs on the same fuse and may have a shorted winding. I don't have a spec for what the pump impedance should be, but if the pump wire heats up that would be a problem. Sometimes a fuse will blow due to a momentary power surge, which can happen with pumps. If you can't find a problem, I would carry some spare fuses but not worry too much about it. I have pasted your wiring diagrams below to assist you. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for using FixYa.

Hello laurabrian and thank you for asking your question, on Fixya.

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 2003 Chevrolet Tracker, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people like you. So here is the link to:
How to diagnose your overheating 2003 Chevrolet Tracker

Anyways if that helps you any little bit, then feel free to follow me on Twitter. That one is at: twitter.com/acoates23234

Thanks for the vote, and good luck!