This warning light (TRAC OFF) sporadically comes on and stays on for no apparent reason. The car (2001 Chevy Cavalier, just over 16,000 miles, auto trans, 2200 SFI 4 cyl. engine) runs and drives fine and is regularly serviced. Had a local service facility look at this once and was told all they did was disconnect the battery for a period to allow the "system to reset itself." Consequently, I've done this a few times myself. The light went off, stayed off, but, as mentioned, sporadically comes back on. I've searched the internet for an answer and could not find one.
Any ideas or a solution???????????????????????
Thanks.
James Terlop
[email protected]
Sometimes it's a complaint with the ABS braking system. If it comes on and you have no other problems and stays on for while, check your brakes. I have had this issue before and had my brakes replaced. They were worn but for some reason were not squeaking.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
My 2001 Cavalier has lost the rear brake lights and turn signals and hazards. The center brake light still works. I have checked the bulbs and all the fuses in the fuse compartment everything checks good. The front turn signals work, the back up lights work which is part of the same bulb so I assume my ground is good. coincindently my odometer display light quit at the same time, all the gauges work and the dash lights all work. Any ideas on where to look next?
The problem is the turn signal/headlight/hazard switch assembly on the steering column which the brake light wiring runs through. The part is easy to change and cost about $50 at most parts stores
Posted on Sep 05, 2008
1999 chevy cavalier keeps overheating, changed the thermostat, radiator and hoses are ok what else could it be the waterpump isnt leaking.
these cars are notorious for that.It needs to be "burped" when your car is cold then open the resivoir(coolant).Start the car .As it warms you will notice the tank level will rise.Do not let it boil over!! when it starts to get warm then turn the car off and watch for bubbles in the resivior.add more coolant as the bubbles come out .repeat until no more bubbles come up.The problem with these cars is that an air pocket forms in the water pump.
Posted on May 11, 2009
All wheel bearings are good. I removed both front abs sensors, cleaned them and checked resistance = 1600 for both. I see no bad wires. The rear sensors measure = 1300 and 1000. Again the wires all look good. All the brakes are new and function properly. The fuses are all good and the brake fluid level is good. I have not checked fusable links. All lights are still on. I tried removing the +battery terminal for 15min then reconnected. All lights came on after 5 min running in Idle. I don;t know what else to do can you advise? My email is [email protected]
I have the same ABS problem... I just had new brakes and front wheel bearings done. A couple weeks later the Service light, ABS, light and Trck off light came on. While driving on the highway it sounded like the breaks were scraping or something to that effect. In any event, there was a rather loud intermittant vibration. Is this a serious mechanical problem caused by the ABS failure?? Appreciate any help!
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
My Battery is brand new and is fine, my connections are not corroded, and I checked my alternator by jump starting it and disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery and the car kept running. I can jump my car and leave it running for about an hour and then when I go to start it the next day it will start, but if I miss starting it just one day it will not start the next day. When it won't start my battery is dead because none of my lights will work or anything else. I don't know whats wrong.
First, DON"T check your alternator that way anymore. It's not good to do on newer systems! The best, quickest check I can tell you is to put a volt meter across the battery. Running with accessories off you should see voltage of about 13.5 to 14.5.
With all accessories and headlamps on high turned on, it should not drop below 12.5. (and that is the absolute low end!).
It sounds like something in the car is staying on. check the glovebox light and interior light delay and make sure they are OK. Otherwise, you will have to start checking entire system for a draw that's taking out the battery overnight. To check, you can pull one fuse at a time and see if draw goes away, then check system that fuse serves.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
have 2001 chevy cavalier, 2200 engine, need to replace oil pan. Do you have to remove engine??
e
Cavalier, Sunfire 2001-2005
Oil Pan - Removal & Installation
2.2L (VIN 4) Engine
To install:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel
Right inner fender splash shield
Starter motor and bracket
Engine mount strut bracket
Oil pan
Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan mounting and related components-2.2L (VIN 4) engine
2.2L (VIN F) Engine
Oil pan with a new gasket. Torque the nuts and bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Engine mount strut bracket. Torque the bolts to 49 ft. lbs. (66 Nm).
Starter motor and bracket. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Right fender splash shield
Right front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
Negative battery cable
To install:
Engine mount strut bracket
Drive belt
Lower then upper AC compressor bolts
Oil pan bolts
Oil pan
Fig. Remove/Install the oil pan bolts in this sequence-2.2L (VIN F) engine
Oil pan and tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
AC compressor bolts
Engine mount bracket
Drive belt
2.4L Engine
To install:
Negative battery cable
Flywheel/converter cover
Right wheel
Right wheel well splash shield
Accessory drive belt
Air conditioning compressor lower bolts
Transmission-to-engine brace
Engine mount strut bracket
Radiator outlet pipe bolts
Radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan
Oil pan to the flywheel cover bolt and nut
Flywheel cover stud for clearance
Radiator outlet pipe from the lower radiator hose and oil pan
Oil level sensor connector
Oil pan
Oil pan with the gasket. Torque the M8 bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Fig. Oil pan fastener torque specifications-2.4L engine
Oil pan to the transmission nut
Oil level sensor connector
Radiator outlet pipe to the lower radiator hose and oil pan
Exhaust manifold brace
Radiator outlet pipe. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Engine mount strut bracket. Torque the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
Transmission to the engine brace
Air conditioning compressor lower bolts. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Accessory drive belt
Right splash shield
Right front wheel
Flywheel/converter cover
Negative battery cable
Hope helped (remember rated this help). Good luck.
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
alt plug labled P L F S
what do each of these wires go to
found this at http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html
(and yes, the Cavalier does use the CS130D alternator)
P-Terminal: Provides a 12Vdc square wave as in the CS-130 application. [The
Pulse/Phase terminal can provide a 12V square wave to determine
alternator speed, used by some Electronic Control Modules or vehicle
computers.
Connects to the stator. Some ICU’s monitor this signal and adjust engine
parameters accordingly.]
F/I-Terminal: It gets a bit tricky here, as some applications do not
incorporate a lamp circuit. In vehicle applications of the “no lamp”
kind, this terminal is connected to
the Ignition Switch, and an internal resistor is used to limit current
and
voltage. Other regulators use this terminal as an output and refer to
this pin
as a Field Terminal, as such, it provides an output that is proportional
to the
field duty cycle of the alternator to an a vehicles ECM. The ECM now has
an
input to sense alternator loading and engine loading, and can
increase/decrease
engine speed accordingly. Here is an important consideration, since the
regulators on CS-130D type alternators have these two different types of
regulators (F-Type or I-Type) they cannot be interchanged. I-Type
regulators
use the F/I-Terminal as an input and this can simply be an ignition
source
12Vdc voltage that the alternator uses; F-Type regulators use the F/I-Terminal
as an output (this ion is a signal that is provided to the vehicle
computer
and the computer uses it to monitor the field intensity of the
alternator as an
input. If you supply a 12Vdc signal to this input, you may very well
ruin the
alternators regulator.
L-Terminal: This is the lamp terminal and operates in the same manner as
the CS-130 lamp circuit above. It is of interest to note that some
applications use the ECM to send the
L-Terminal a signal (5Vdc reference), and the F-Terminal responds with a
signal
sent to the ECM, in this application the ECM and the Regulator form a
“closed
loop” to control engine loading and alternator output.
S-Terminal: This is the “Sense” terminal and is connected to the
battery. It senses the voltage
level of the battery and feeds the regulator circuit this reference so
that the
regulator can adjust the Pulse Width Modulation to control the
alternators
output. The S-terminal on the CS-130D regulator is the same size as the
other
three terminals, unlike that of the CS-130.
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
how do i replace fuel pump on a 2001 chevy cavalier?
First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
2001 Cavalier Z24 Where is the BCM (body control module) located?
Below the instrument panel on the left side henge pillar,or up high behind the Instrument panel depending the model and options!
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
what is a c1275 code on cavalier
C1275 is throttle position sensor
Posted on Jan 11, 2012
1,907 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!
1,849 Questions
1,641 Questions
1,529 Questions
1,438 Questions
1,200 Questions