20 Most Recent 2001 Buick Century - Page 5 Questions & Answers

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE Complete the following steps and refer to the accompanying illustrations in order to adjust the headlamp aim: 1. Ensure that the headlamps are a distance of 7.6 m (25 ft) away from the wall. 2. Mark a vertical line on the wall. Align the vertical line with the center line of the vehicle. 3. Mark a horizontal line on the wall. Ensure that the distance of the line to the floor is equal to the distance from the center of the headlamp aim dot to the floor. 4. Using the following components, ensure that the following specifications match the specifications in the illustrations: ^ The headlamp aim adjusters (1). ^ The zero set access hole (10). ^ The zero set meter (11). >

About a grand +/- $300 I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Your question is worded a bit strangely but I will attempt to answer what I think you're asking. You have a 2001 Buick Century with a Chevy 3.1 V6 mounted transverse (side to side). I believe there are four freeze plugs on that engine block, two on either side and visible from underneath. I don't know how easy or difficult they are to get to. If you change them yourself make sure you don't put tap water in the radiator afterward. Get distilled water from the grocery store for about 99 cents a gallon. It is free of minerals. Tap water is loaded with minerals that calcify and end up restricting coolant flow. Use a good antifreeze and if water is needed only use distilled water.

have you checked for power/grounds at the socket you may be missing one.

What are you wanting to know? Why it won't go up/or down? Window regulator stuck if that's what your asking.

if all else fails get an air horn and blow it at the same time the horn gets pressed to make the inspector think it works. ;) Try popping the hood on your car and look for the horn. They should be up near the front by the radiator or headlights then take the connections off and replace them securely. If no luck there replace the fuse, the fuses dont always look blown when they stop functioning. After that take the horns out of your car (usually just a screw to dismount the bracket holding the two horns to the panel.) and manually hook power up to them by touching wires to the ports and then power on the wire. (i know that we allways make sure there isnt power to the wire before we need there to be there because its just not safe...right?) At this point you should know your problem. If not than you need to test your power leading into your horn.

Try tapping on the motor while operating the switch. You might be able to get the motor to temporarily come back to life.

You need to bring your car to a BUICK dealer to had a new one.

if you do it your self ( not that hard ) 45.00 or so . If you have a garage or mech do it at least two or more --- http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=CbXxv3famVPvxKqiksAer74GoCorSsJsF0rfC06AB4ImI0-sBCAYQAigHYMnOiomIpIQQoAH5973_A8gBB6oEJk_QrRreXuelKjE-x0UjjTl7G8KAANMk8aGrFb1P8i7dD6ovWkwmwAUFoAYmgAfvh0KIBwGQBwKoB6a-G-ASs4v7quqztciWAQ&sig=AOD64_35VuUVF_TtHuqcSfQPuzLz_WgM6A&ctype=5&rct=j&q=&ved=0CHsQuxc&adurl=http://www.1aauto.com/water-pump/i/1aewp00013%3Ff%3D429407%26y%3D2001%26utm_campaign%3Dgb_csv_br%26utm_content%3DEWP

The heater consists of a small radiator, A inlet hose with a inline tap, connected to the engine cooling system. A return hose running from the heater radiator back to the cooling system. First place to look , the cable that controls the tap, then the tap is it jammed in the shut position . are the hoses perished or kinked, one of the above will be causing the fault.

there are two hoses running to the heater radiator from the engine cooling system , one has a inline tap that controls the flow of hot water to the heater , check the tap is open , may be the control cable is not opening the tap , or it frozen and must be replaced.

Look for the fuse that powers the system and pull it.

it is common for the wheel sensors to have issues and need to be replaced.

If you're talking about the Park Neutral Safety Switch, it's on the linkage right up against the transmission, driver side under the hood. If you're not talking about the Neutal Safety Switch, then spell out exactly what you want and do not abbreviate.

On top of the transmission, has a triangle shape. Backup light switch is incorporated into it. Has to be adjusted to Neutral position with transmission in Neutral to get it right. Be careful to chock the tires so the car cannot roll and use the hand brake for added safety.

P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction The code P0446 is set when the engine computer recognizes a fault or restriction at the vent control part of the Evaporative emission control system (EVAP). The description of the fault varies between different car manufacturers, but one thing is common, the code P0446 doesn't directly point to a defective part; some testing might be required to pinpoint the faulty component. What can cause the code P0446: - faulty vent control valve - blockage at the vent hose, vent filter or vent control valve - open or short in the vent control valve circuit - bad charcoal canister - EVAP system leak - faulty EVAP system pressure sensor - bad vacuum switching valve (VSV) - stuck open purge valve (solenoid)

Sounds like a fuel pressure problem. If the light was on it still has the code stored in the ecm. A good shop can check the code and fuel pressure.

Here is a bypass I had to use on my buick and it worked... It is priced right also and they give u instructions to do it yourself

go to toms auto and tire in hebron in. 701 w. st. rd 2. its on the corner. they were very honest and fair with thier price. plus they picked up and dropped my car off for me while i was at work.. john h.