20 Most Recent 1995 Volkswagen Passat - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Here is the firing orders for the two possible engines you might have...
1995 Volkswagen Passat Sedan
2.0 liter SOHC L4 (ABA)

1995 Volkswagen Passat Sedan
2.8 liter DOHC V-6 (AAA)

1995 Volkswagen Passat 2.0L SFI 4cyl

1. With the distributor cap removed, the rotor should be pointing toward the No. 1 mark on the rim of the distributor housing. On 8 valve engines, the notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
2. Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt.
3. Slide the timing belt from the sprockets.

Fig. Adjusting the belt tension on a 2.0L


Fig. Locate the tensioner


Good luck (remember rated this help).

Most US cars recommend change at 60,000 miles. I would say that you have gotten your money's worth out of the original belt. Some engines suffer piston and valve damage if the belt breaks.

WARNING Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! The A4 and Passat model utilize an interference-type, non-free-wheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and expensive) engine damage. The recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is at least every 6 years or 60,000-90,000 miles (96,000-144,000 km), depending on vehicle usage and engine type.
NOTE If removed and reinstalled, the timing belt must be installed in the same rotational direction as removed.

VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000 Repair Guide
Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING Do NOT turn the engine or camshaft with the timing belt removed. The pistons will contact the valves and cause internal engine damage.


2.0L (9A, ABA) Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover(s).
2. Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft to TDC of No. 1 piston. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned with the mark on the inner timing belt cover or the edge of the cylinder head.
3. With the distributor cap removed, the rotor should be pointing toward the No. 1 mark on the rim of the distributor housing. On 8 valve engines, the notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
4. Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt.
5. Slide the timing belt from the sprockets

Fig. Adjusting the belt tension on a 2.0L 8 valve



Fig. Remove the timing belt cover




Fig. Align the timing marks





Fig. Locate the tensioner




Fig. Loosen the tensioner bolt




Fig. Mark the belts direction of rotation


To install:

1. Check the alignment of the timing marks. On 16-valve engines, the mark on the tooth should align with the mark on the rear belt cover.
2. Install the new timing belt and tension the belt so it can be twisted 90° at the middle of it's longest section, between the camshaft and intermediate sprockets.
3. Recheck the alignment of the timing marks and, if correct, turn the engine 2 full revolutions to return to TDC of No. 1 piston. Recheck belt tension and timing marks. Readjust as required. Torque the tensioner nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
4. Install the belt cover and accessory drive belts.
5. If the belt is too tight, there will be a growling noise that rises and falls with engine speed.

continue...

With what you say,clean the main power leads from the battery at both ends.Especially the earth lead.Where the leads connect,there may be a buildup of corrosion that is hard to see but it does affect starter voltage in a big way.Get them really clean at both ends and where they are connected too.Hope this is a help

You must also remove the wiper / turn signal switch cluster. Before you can do this... Most of the 1995 Passats were fitted with a splined cone fitted on the steering columb just under the steering wheel. However a special pullers is needed to remove this cone. With this cone and the trim around the switches removed its a simple enough to remove the ignition switch.
All the best
John

Hard, yes you have to remove the steering wheel. You'll have to remove the airbag to get the steering wheel off. If you ever do anything w/ an air bag, disconnect the battery for at least 10 minutes beforehand.

check the car battery

check the coolant temp sender unit,disconnect it and then see if it starts,if it does you need a new one

Since you have already tried the obvious look to make sure that the new switch is properly engaging when you move the pedal. Most of these switches have some adjustment in their placement. Otherwise search through the wire harness and tape up ANY cracks or breaks in the plastic coating. Also look at all the connectors for green corrosion. If you find or suspect corrosion replace the connector. VW''s are picky when it comes to corrosion and breaks in wire insulation. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the headlight switch itself... You can verify by removing the switch and checking continuity across the switch (with a meter or powered test light) in the on position... hope this helps...;-)

Here are the cooling system diagnostic steps...First does the cooling fan kick on (with engine hot)? If not, check the fuse, if good then check the thermoswitch in the radiator (it's about an inch and a half in diameter located on the lower part of the radiator with two wires ) by disconnecting the wires and touching them together (again, with engine hot...at least 190 degrees) if the fan comes on, you have a bad switch. If not connect a 10 gauge jumper wire from the battery to the fan itself (there are three terminals,,, one high, one low and ground). With power direct from the battery (and a ground wire, if necessary) fan should run... if not replace the fan assembly... if it does run then you have a bad cooling fan relay (under the dash, I believe). Hope this helps... ;-)

no adjustments, very common pick up a new outside door handle and replace, might want to do both doors because if one broke the other isn't far behind.

in a mk3 vw this could be the fan control module thats bust. is the fan spinning at high or low speed?

either the wires to the lock motor or defective from opening and closing the gate or the gate lock motor is defective.

if your unlocking the doors with a key and the engine is starting it wont have a key fob,if your opening the doors with the key and the alarms going off and it wont start then it will have a key fob

its on top of the gearbox 2 wire connection and is not a complicated job

you have switched the trip computer to instantaneous fuel consumption rather than average.the switch on the end of the wiper stalk.press the switch until you get back to average consumption ,i think it shows a circle with a line through it from memory