20 Most Recent 1993 Volkswagen Cabriolet Questions & Answers

Volkswagen Cabriolet Scirocco Service Repair Manual 1985 1993 Download for the best solution of your problem visit this site

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If that knock sensor was contributing, I'd have expected it to throw an OBDII code. If you are getting a bad knock sensor fault code, then obviously replace. But I would have expected a knock indication to the computer to change the A/F mixture rather than disable the spark, since the cause of the knock is mixture not spark timing.

hi ther you are missig 2 small parts >>>at gearbox end ,the ball end goes throw the fork and a rubber bush with a **** metel slide that goes on cable to retain it bit like a lolly pulling throw your two fingers closed together stops at the lolly pop.....lol mmm getting hungry lol

It sounds as if you have a fuel pump trouble or coil

Switch to a different grade oil. (20W50 if you're not on it already). If this does not change the symptoms(and I doubt it would) the main bearings are worn. (Despite what you read about testing the pressure switch, they rarely fail)
With bearing failure, depending on your budget, you can :

• Change main and big-end bearings
• Rebuild the complete engine
• Replace the engine with a factory rebuilt unit

Replacing with something from a breakers yard is gambling as you never really know what you get. If you're under 150000 miles (erm... the car I mean) I'd recommend having the crank resized and fitting oversize bearings which is the most cost effective DIY option. You'll need to remove the engine. Remove the sump, damper pulley, clutch/flex plate and finally the crankshaft. Everything else on the engine can remain intact. You'l need to take the crank to an engineering shop to have it resized. Once done they will give you the new sizes or perhaps they can supply you with the new bearings. In order to do this get a good quality repair manual (Haynes or Bentley- avoid Chiltons) or you can post here again.

Go into boot from rear seat and you will find a red plastic cord in the tailgate trim( sometimes under a plastic cover) pull the cord and boot opens. Locking solenoid will be faulty.

Digifant 1 (California)
Primary should be .5-.7 ohms
Secondary should be 3000-4000 ohms


Digifant 2 (Federal)
Primary should be .52-.76 ohms
Secondary should be 2400-3500 ohms

Change the relay, these go bad and they can stick either open or closed. The energy comes from the computer after it gets power from the ignition and a signal from the teperature sensor. Are there any other relays the same as the one you take out for the fan? if so swap them and see what happens. If it still stays on then I would suspect either the temperature probe or the computer.

I would remove and verify the rotor is turning when the motor is cranked over, you may have a broken timing belt. Also check the ignition control module which is mounted under the hood, driver side, upper firewall, mounted below plastic drip tray.

Yes the glass does have a runner or rubber seal on it. If you have removed it from the frame and the frame is still strong enough to hold up for a while, then here is how you do it: place the rubber seal on the winow glass, have a piece of strong string (about 24 inches long), place the window on the frame for now (don't push it in yet, just park it on top of the frame, get in the trunk, get the string to pass between the frame and the rubber window seal, use the string to position the rubber seal while someone outside the car pushes firmly on the window (helping you pop it in, inch by inch). You have to work from one corner all the way around the frame until you get back to where you started from.It takes a while, it's frustrating and remember not to remove the string before you are completely done because you'll have to start over from scratch. Also, once done, for good measure, tape some painter's tape (low-level of stickiness) about a 1/4inch from the outside rubber window seal (all the way around) and fill the inside of the rubber seal with a thin layer of clear caulking (bathroom or exterior grade). then just smooth out the rubber seal while the caulking is still wet so as to remove any bumps or uneveness. Repeat once a year and you'll be sure that your Cabby won't leak water from the back window, and won't have a rusty back window frame that rots out eventually.
Hope that helps, Cheers!

Well its not the CORRECT fluid so I would flush and put in the right stuff. It may not have correct fluids for the rest of the car either.

Ther are many components that could cause this. I had a similar problen on a 1993 MK1 scirroco, and a friend of mine pointed to the anti stall unit, a small block on the baulkhead (firewall) with 2 electrical connectors, 1 male and 1 female. This can be bypassed by simply disconnecting these connectors and plugging them together, thus bypassing the contol unit. I did check with a VW specialist before trying and he confirmed that this is safe to do.
As for the ECU this needs to be checked by a specialist, but some can be "reset" by disconnecting the battery, nleaving for an hour and reconnecting the battery. The engine will run quite rough until the ECU "learns" again. But this will depend on the type of ECU fitted to your car.

It's only takes a few minutes as long as you have all four wheels above the ground. The most I've spent is about five minutes. If it doesn't use quick release couplers then it's just a simple turning 1/4" hose clamp. The earlier models have them by the fuel distributor and connected to banjo bolts which you cover with a rag while cracking the 19mm bolt while countering it with a 21-22mm wrench on the filter body. The newer models moved the filter rear passenger side area bear the filler tube.