20 Most Recent 2001 Nissan Altima - Page 4 Questions & Answers

lack of electricity to instrument panel check all fuses and wiring connections for the instrument panel

check for spark and injector pulse more likely you forgott to plug cam snr or deamage it in the process

remove engine mount and use jack under pan with block wood move engine up and down as you need

I have to pull the engine, If you find an easier way let us know.

You may have to wipe the ecu by a pro. Or the repair wasn't done correctly either or would work

98% of all pcv valves-- if you have one-- have been on a valve cover for the last 60 years The internet has all these vehicle questions in print, photos & video, if you use google correctly & ask the right questions

The internal damage is always the main worry with a broken timing chain, bent or broken valves, damaged valve stems and seats, I have even seen broken rings and split pistons and snapped camshafts, if the chain has stretched and the timing has jumped a couple of teeth you may be lucky, but you shouldnt turn the engine over even by hand until you find out the root of the problem, any damage may be increased tenfold. Unfortunately the timing cover will have to be released to find out before you do anything.

Likely to be a fuse.

No to the high octane gas. Regular gas is fine. Higher octane gas is more resistant to ignition and is better suited for high compression engines to prevent preignition and detonation. Check or replace your idle air control valve since the car stall at idle when the throttle blade is closed. If the IAC is not working it won't allow for air to bypass the throttle plate. Also have your throttle body cleaned.

Hello, The most likely problem is the Air Intake Control Motor. On this car, I don't believe it is next to the throttle body. I believe it is on the opposite side of the intake manifold, and it is very difficult to reach. The throttle is on the driver-side of the manifold, but the idle air control valve, I believe, is on the passenger-side. It seems strange, but I believe it is true. It has four bolts holding it in place. You could also try to clean it using carb cleaner spray and the gunk should be dislodged and the problem will go away. If the problem doesn't fully clear then a new one is needed. Good Luck! Rich Lilja

There are multiple vacuum control solenoid a

Hi The misfire could be being caused by a number of things, such as: 1. Worn/dirty spark plug - Clean/replace spark plug/s 2. Spark plug lead breaking down - Replace spark plug lead 3. Or possibly the intake gasket. If the intake gasket is leaking it causes a vacuum leak. with this vacuum leak at idle it will cause a misfire. - To check this, take a can of carb cleaner (or WD-40 may also work) and when the car is running, spray it along the intake by cylinder number If you see/hear the engine change then you have a leaking intake gasket. Trust this helps Alan

Hi John This link gives the location and operating check.. The Chad Experience Regards Alan

Trans fluid??? It is it manual

Sounds like rough idle. A full diagnosis of runnability is needed.

I seem to be answering a bunch of your questions today. Really hope they are helping in some way. White smoke can be lots of things. I little white smoke on a cool morning or a cold day when you first start the car is completely normal. Its just condensation inside the exhaust and cylinders themselves burning off. Lots of white smoke or smoking on a continual basis is not normal...and bad. Usually white smoke on a hot day, or white smoke after more than a few minutes of running the engine is a sign of coolant burn off. Most common causes there are either a warped or cracked head, or a bad head gasket. Again, hope that helps. I do hope all of these questions are in regards to a single car...if they are...it really might be time to consider either an engine swap or giving it up to the scrap yard...blue smoke AND white smoke add up to big problems. Both at the same time out of the same engine on a regular basis, really sounds like a cracked head in my opinion. Either way, good luck man!

Can't tell you exactly...but its not a small job. Depending on the shop, and how they go about it, it could take 7 or 8 hours or it could take more (or less if its an older, simpler engine). Basically they have to strip the engine from the top down to the heads, which in and of itself can take hours (removing the things you see when you open the hood is only about a quarter of the battle...they also have to strip down the timing system, remove the lashes, lifters, cams everything down to the point they have access to the valve stems...this assuming they have the tools and experience to do it without removing the heads...possible but complicated on an Altima). Once down to this point, its a matter of moving around the engine, pulling each piston to TDC, compressing the cylinder, compressing the valve springs, pulling the retainers (and not loosing them down inside the cylinder or else the heads have to come off any way), working the old seal out, new one in and reversing the whole thing...then move on to the next valve. Either 2 or 4 valves per piston, 4 to 8 pistons per engine...the time adds up quick. Its the reason us shade tree mechanics learn what we learn when we learn it. Parts might run you $100 or less, but 5 or 6 hours of mechanic labor might turn it into a $700 or $800 job or more depending on the engine. Hope that helps in some way and good luck!