Top 20 2002 Ford Excursion Questions & Answers

At a two wire cop coil, one wire is voltage and the other is ground. Does the ground wire have voltage on it? Usually if both wires have voltage, there is no ground. If you use an led test light at two wire connector on one cylinder, does the lite pulse when you crank it? If no voltage on ground and no pulse, the coil driver may be shorted? That would be a pcm problem. Don't replace pcm w/o plenty of testing. If pcm issue, you have to decide if cop coil caused the problem or wiring circuit? You would have to fix problem before replacing pcm or it may damage the new pcm. Just my opinion.

There are two main components of the cruise control system: the controller and the servo. The controller integrates all the inputs and tells the servo how far to actuate the throttle plates. Normally, there is no way you can service this item, so if you trace a problem to the controller, you'll have to buy a new one. A bad controller probably will require a service manual for specific diagnostics. You'll also need a scan tool to access any computer trouble codes to boot. The servo does the work of moving the throttle blades to speed up the vehicle. Conventional systems are actuated by manifold vacuum. Check the linkage from the servo to the throttle to ensure it's properly hooked up and not binding or sticky. Inside the servo is a diaphragm that moves to pull on the linkage. Some older systems, used on cars or trucks that don't have throttle-position sensors, may have a rod that moves in and out of a magnetic coil to tell the controller the throttle position. There are also two electrically operated solenoid valves. One valve admits vacuum to the diaphragm chamber to add more throttle. The other bleeds air back into the chamber to reduce throttle. Normally, they will never be open at the same time, so if one is sticky or leaking, cruise control operation will be erratic at best. Check for leakage with a handheld vacuum pump. A leaky valve may benefit from a quick shot of silicone spray. Diesels and some late models may use a servo that is completely electrical. These usually are mounted on the fender well or firewall, and are connected to the throttle by a second throttle cable. Other than keeping the cable lubricated and properly adjusted, there's not much to fiddle with. As always, check the shop manual for specifics on your vehicle.

It is fuse number 12 in the interior fuse box behind the panel just to the left of the steering column. Fuse #12 a 20 Amp mini fuse that powers the Cigar lighter and OBD2 diagnostic connector pin #16 (12 volts)

Is the engine dieseling? Or trying to keep running after switching it off? Hot carbon deposits used to cause this in carborated vehicles. Guess they could cause the same till the fuel pressure was gone on a newer vehicle if the pcm power relay contacts had fused.
Is that what fuel injector knock refers to?

Place a non fouler ahead of the plug of the one with the black on it is what I would try.

loose ground on ecm

This is what I could find. Hope it helps

It is located in the instrument panel relay box , near the center of I/P ! Hope this helps , this is all my service info say's !

There are a number of issues that can cause overheating disc brakes. Disc brakes, when released, separate from the disc by the action of the rotor moving between them (since no rotor is perfectly true, there is a small about of wobble and it pushes the pads away from the rotor surface). Things that can cause this to go wrong are:

1. Caliper pistons that have rust rings that cause sticking. This most often will happen right after or shortly after replacing old, work out pads with new ones. Because the caliper piston was extended out farther with the worn pads, its surface may get rusty. This rust can cause sticking when the piston is pushed back into the bore with the new, thicker pads.
2. Caliper slide bolts will rust and get sticky, not allowing the caliper to release properly and re-center itself on the rotor. What you often see here is that one pad (inner or outer) is totally worn out and the other seems normal.
3. Rusty brake lines/caliper internals can cause restrictions in the flow of brake fluid and hold pressure after the brake pedal is released.

It is highly recommended that whenever you change your brake pads, you replace the caliper slide bolts use a new brake hardware kit when reinstalling. The additional cost is almost always saved in longer brake pad life, and fewer complications.

It looks like the F250 and Excursion use the same part number for the outer fender sheet metal. You can compare part numbers on the link shown and decide if it will work for you 2002 Ford Excursion Fender Replacement Front Driver Side Replacement...

You probably hit the switch on the brake pedal lever with your feet. Check your brake lights and press the brake pedal. This switch sends a signal to the starter solenoid and is part of the interlock. If the starter does not crank, the brake pedal lever switch is probably out of position or broken. Now if the engine cranks but does not fire, it usually is the Inertia switch which is behind one of the front floor kick panels. The switch has a reset button on it. Simply press and it will restore power to the fuel pump.

on ford trucks the gem module is part of the fuse box .Go to junkyard and buy and have dealer program if cost is to high from dealer

Begin with the basics......Start with a scan/check parameters If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

Begin with consulting your owners manual... If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ralph_2f0886b7d6af32ce

Too small amperage fuse or you have a short in the wiring somewhere, the fuse is protecting the wires from burning up, search for a bare wire somewhere in the door jams or inside the door. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

ok sometime you close the back and for some reason the latch dont hit the striker properly so it lock and the only way to open the lock is with the key and sometime you have to put a screwdriver between the latch so it can open,if that dont work or not the problem the leaver inside that connect the handle may come loose at times the clip that is plastic does snap

there is a short some where most likely in between door and body there in a rubber boot take it off and look at wires.

I would disconnect the battery and then unplug each sensor and WD-40 them and the connector. Then reinstall and reconnect the battery. Check out if the system light goes off. I want to say you might research this more on the Web for videos and Utube blogs. Just don't like the idea of a serious safety concern not going to a repair shop. This posting is 6 months old.

Your horn relay is sticking.

cabling inside the seat is faulty ,,,,, nasty problem as you have to remove upholstery to repair it ,,,,,