20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Taurus - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Bleed all of your brake lines.

You have a blown head gasket,you need to get a compression check to verify.

Sometimes a motor is more sensitive to warm conditions. When the water temperature sensor does not cool off it keeps the engine in a warm run mode which is very lean. This is how lower emissions and better fuel economy are made. The "cold start sequence" makes a richer fuel mix for starting and running. I have not seen a dividing point where this switches from one mode to the other. IF it is say 180 water temperature degrees and your car stays above 180 degrees turned off after running, then the fuel mix will be very lean until the engine coolant loses heat. About all you can do is put in a new thermostat of proper temperature or a lower temperature thermostat. You could flush the radiator and back flush the block so that heat loss is more efficient. You could put in a new water temperature sensor. You want to get rid of calcium-fication of the internal surface areas so the components are more like factory new.

Have the fuel pressure tested. The check valve in the pressure regulator may be leaking down.

Time for a tranny rebuild I think.

If the oil pan gasket is split open it will run out of the gap in the gasket.

You need a special tool to hold the ABS hydraulic control valves open during the bleeding procedure. So a well equipped shop needs to do this as the tool is very expensive.

Mechanic at the local Ford dealer told me (he thought) the silver disc thingy is a device to smooth out minor pressure fluctuations in the fuel line. I think there are two main possibilities - the fuel pressure regulator might be intermittently faulty and sometimes fails to maintain a pressure, effectively sticking wide open so when the engine (and fuel pump) stops the fuel rail could empty back into the tank. The second possibility is a problem inside the tank on the intake side of the fuel pump so fuel swill/fuel level causes the pump to suck air...

sounds like you have a manual transmission. ?Worn Clutch plates will give these symptomsThe clutch plates rub together and provide connection between the gear box and the drive shaft if not worn.Also check the cable for the clutch is not loose and needs a surclip to hold it in at the firewall.Check if Hydraulic Clutch that there is adequate clutch fluid if low might have leaking clutch master cyclinder I have experienced this in a car I owned.Not a lot of fun . Resulted in needing a Tow to repair garage and new clutch was AUD $1200 a couple of years ago.

You do not mention any testing, the transmission and engine are fully electronically controlled, have the system scanned for fault codes as a first step in repair.

If you're smelling insulation burning - STOP. Fuses should be blowing before insulation melts / burns. Have the car checked my a trusted mechanic before using anything in the car that makes the wiring burn or melt.

I will tell you what I would do. I looked up the part you speak of on the internet, and found it to be inexpensive. Hence and therefore, I would purchase one and toss it into the glove box, for a spare. I would also carry along the necessary tools to change it out. I have had a few cars that have developed a chirp/squeak like yours had, and have found the same as you did. Sometimes that is all that is needed, sometimes the noise returns. God bless your efforts.

Route the new one exactly as the old one when it is removed.

What do you mean by Loosing gas?