If you don't know how to test automotive electrical circuit's using a DMM - digital multi-meter ,looking at wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in these system's so you know which wire's to test ,your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop . People that have no clue should not be trying to fix car's . Very weak system operation issue's indicate a high resistance's problem .
I'm thinking the solenoid ????? Guessing is not the way ! Voltage drop testing is .
Learning how to diagnose the proper way an not making part stores richer ,is the right way .
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Watch these two professional tech's teach the proper way .
sounds like you may have a issue with a bad sensor somewhere. You need to diagnose this issue. Or look for a sensor that has come unplugged. If you can restart it that shows it is getting fuel.
If it would not start at all I would say the fuel pump.
To me that sounds like a charging issue. With the other items replaced, check and make sure a wire for the alternator didn't get misplaced and if that all looks good you may want to have the alternator tested. Could be something as simple as a wire getting swung into another area while you turn and shorting out, but since it needs to be jumped after it occurs to me that sounds like a charging issue.
I know it sounds silly but i would be checking oil level to see if its been overfilled. this will cause problems like you have. The engine is probably shuddering because if oil is getting to the air cleaner it is probably in the combustion chambers as well and reducing the sparkplugs ability to perform under load. Quite possible a hose was not reconnected or has come loose giving a vacuume leak which could also cause a problem. Check for these things and see how you go.
Switched system power relay #4 supply's B+ voltage to center wire -red with yellow trace. Fuse 103 40 amp supply's B+ voltage to the relay .
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model and engine size. Under system click lighting .Under subsystem click on exterior lighting . Click the search button ,then the blue link .Third diagram down is the one for the rear tail lamps .
Wow - electrical issues with Any motor Vehicle are frustrating. I would only suggest not one but two or three calls to dealerships that focus on your car manufacturer and after chats, select one that will trouble shoot the issue with out charge?
When manually turning your engine over, even with the starter on / off, there will be some resistance. Before you condemn the engine, I would recommend you remove the oil pan and perform a visual inspection while someone else is turning the engine over. this may help you possibly find if there is something that is wrong.
If you are not mechanically inclined, I would recommend you take it to a known repair shop to perform the above mentioned inspection.
Looking at a wiring diagram ,the BCM has nothing to do with the cruise control . This vehicle has two different body control modules ,the (FEM) front electronic module an the (REM) rear electronic module . The power door locks are controlled by these two modules . The door lock switches are inputs to the (FEM) . The driver door lock is also controlled by the (FEM) . The right front and the rear door locks are controlled by the (REM) . The power windows are not controlled by these modules ,so it is not a faulty body computer . An where did you check codes ? Takes a factory or professional type scan tool to read these codes . No code reader , they just check PCM - engine codes . The power mirrors are not controlled by these modules either . Nor is the radio .
Looking at a wiring diagram i see the power mirror's and the power window share a common ground point G-305 , so does the rear radio controller ! (if your vehicle has one )
Buying an replacing parts is no way to fix these problems ! Using a wiring diagram and a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter to test the electrical circuits of these systems is the way to find the problem . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Then under system click on body an Accessorys , subsystem click power windows . Check for B+ voltage to the master window switch , check for a good ground .( Loaded circuit test ) Do you know what that means ? Watch these videos !
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to KnowVoltage Drop Essentials TST Motor AgeHow To Read Wiring Diagrams Schematics AutomotiveThe Trainer 29 Understanding How Electrical CIrcuits Work and How to Test...
Oh my, and I thought the digital dash on our '98 Caravan was the only one susceptable to this gremlin. Get a Chiltons/Haynes repair manual for your make/model/year. It will lead you, with pictures even, through the diagnosis/repair steps. It sounds as though it's the same problem as the Caravan. Corrosion at the circuit board pins on the bottom of the dash cluster. Or, worst case scenario, an actual crack in the circuit board itself. Repair of analog shouldn't be as involved as this over-thought digital. Best of luck.
I'd clean the MAF sensor and maybe replace the fuel filter.
When you get it running again,put a can of the best fuel system cleaner in the tank and run it a while.
Anytime you disconnect the battery the computer relearns your driving habits the next few times you run it. It might even run a little rough the first few miles.
Also,run that stored(old) gas out and then refill with quality Marathon or Shell.
No check engine light? don-ohio
Your owners manual shows the fuse is in underhood fuse box, number 6--30 amp. If you don't have an owners manual you can go to, fleet.ford.com and look at your owners manual.
Is it an old van? Can you see on the door frame a switch does it come out when the door is opened (push in and out a few times). 3 position switch on always / off always and door switch?
