Question edited for clarity and fix funky punctuation and lack of spaces.
Question moved to model category.
My first thought was that the timing belt had snapped, but you have a timing chain and it says this
Does a Ford Windstar have a timing belt or chain?
Best Answer. Your Ford Windstar had two engine options and they both ran a timing chain, not a timing belt. Belts need to be replaced at around 100K miles, but since you have a hardened steel timing chain, you have nothing to worry about. Your chain should last the life of the engine without being serviced.
May 28, 2019
Has the oil ever been changed. You saying there was a 'pop' concerns me but it may have been a backfire, or unburned fuel popping through the Throttle Body.
And then there is the grinding sound, but that might just be the starter on the flywheel.
The only way to diagnose is to call out a mobile mechanic.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+mechanic+near+me
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Replace the multi function switch located behind steering wheel . Hazzard switch is a part of the combo switch and is a common cause of your vehicles symptom .
The warning chime is on because the GEM - generic electronic module think's the door is open . Your best bet ,have a qualified repair shop check it out . Unless you have a scanner that will talk with the GEM & the engine computer & ABS computer , checking DTC'S - dfiagnostic trouble codes . If you don't know about this , take it to a repair shop.
one of the door/van loading door switches has failed it thinks a door is open so the the interior light stays on and the door open warning will ding the interior light should have a switch to disable it or take out the bulb but you cant stop the dinging until you find the faulty latch switch and fix it
Your engine has IMRC (intake manifold runner controls) that are supposed to stay closed under 3000 rpms. Over time they get carboned up and can hang open causing poor performance. Try to manually close the valve, if it immediately opens again the diaphragm might be bad. It would require replacing that IMRC.
If you use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic for a full charge is 12.6 volts, and yes the .6 is a big deal. Generally it says if voltage is 12.4 or below, you need to charge the battery. Just my opinion.
Leave the meter leads touching the battery posts, have helper turn key to crank position, Does the reading drop, what is the reading? If it does drop very much, then check for an open circuit to starter. If it drops all the way to zero, your going to have to check battery and battery connections.
I did look at your starter wiring diagram, it appears your security system is a starter motor disable. If the security system is the issue then you may need a scanner to communicate with your security system.
First check all spark plugs wires and boots the 0304 is a #4 cylinder misfire and if it's a +jumping to - this is affecting the other sensors a bad plug boot should be looked for and also check for cracked spark plugs at #4 cylinder next if you find that there's a leaking +to- antifreeze or oil leaking into that cylinder will cause it also and you have fixed the problem now disconnect the battery cables for 5 minutes and then reconnect them now turn your key to the on position to get the dash lights on but do not start the car and observe the lights if the check engine light goes out and abs and air bag now start the engine this is the self test mode for the obd system if the check engine light stayed on then there's still a bad sensor and read the codes again if your driving and the check engine light comes back on now do the same read the codes for other components that are bad the #4 misfire will definitely throw a bunch of codes because of the + leak to - and the other sensors here will be getting + voltage where there shouldn't be next if your getting the 0401-0402 that's the egr valve saying that it's insufficient first then excessive second the grounding could be frying that egr control solenoid next the 1537 &1538 are the intake manifold runners on both sides bank 1&2 cylinder head sides and could've been caused by the egr codes from the first problem next the 1744 is the torque converter clutch is stuck in the off position this can be also from the first problem but go to the transmission bulk head connector and unplug it and look for a fluid wet plug and connector or water from being loosely connected if water clean with denatured alcohol and let dry both sides bulk head and plug if you find fluid in the bulk head plug/connector you must drop the pan and change the bulk head and again clean the plug and change the transmission switches inside they are damaged from that same jumping off circuits from the fluid leak and also the water leak but maybe not you have to road test the van but I will tell you that the #4 cylinder misfire could be causing all the other codes but I wanted to include everything that's coming up because I am not there to check myself ok good luck Stephen
There is only thing will cause the check engine light to flash when you are driving and that is your catalyst converter is over heating and that is very dangerous if you continue to drive the van and the check engine light is flashing there is a very real possibility your van can catch on fire. What causes the catalyst converter to get hot is that raw fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system. That system can get so hot that it will glow cherry red it’s easier to see it at night. Please make sure and are expecting your problem correctly and if you are take it to a shop because you have more than one problem and the van is not safe to drive If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d
There's a bleed screw located at the bottom of the radiator. Open screw let fluid run out of radiator. Fill radiator with water run vehicle. Repeat above steps until fluid is clear. Use a coolant system flush. Refill system with appropriate amount of coolant and water.
https://s1.postimg.org/1i7q5btlu7/headlamps.jpg
Click on the link.
The top wires to headlamp are voltage for hi or lo beam.
The bottom black wire is ground. You can use a test light to check voltage and ground.
Check the wiring inside the rubber boot from the body to the door . Opening an closing the door a million times can cause these wires to break . Testing the electrical circuit using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter before replacing parts is the proper way to diagnose automotive electrical circuit's . You can find free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power locks or windows ,which ever you want to diagnose first .
Suggest you watch this video as well
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
