20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Explorer AWD - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Clogged injectors, needs a tune up basically. Plugs, wires, PCV Valve, injector cleaner (SEAFOAM) I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_677dced97ad9bddf

Check for broken toner ring.

Pull the Engine and Transmission as a Unit, separate them, put Engine on an engine stand, swivel up-side down, pull the oil pan, remove the oil strainer/pick up & tube, Where the end of the tube comes from s your oil pump and it is pretty self explanatory how it unbolts. When installing the new pump make sure line up the pump drive properly and follow original steps in reverse.

Im having a similar problem with my 97 Exlporer, after testing the fuel regulator which was o,k. the holding pressure test failed with fuel found to be leaking into the cylinders and the strong odor of fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe as well as hard starting , and rough idle. I have decided to take the injectors out this weekend for testing. Oh and you will love this, When i took this vehicle to my mechanic, he replaced the head gasket and sent me down the road, i could tell something was wrong after few miles of driving and the nasty smell of gas. He just lost my business, guess i'll just tackle it myself......................

Tune up including fuel filter and air filter. Also check for Vacuum Leaks.

See if your cruse control is working. If not, your speedometer gear, located in your transmission, is stripped.

Sound like the ignition switch is bad, of the relay to the Solenoid switch is bad.

Ok, put the vehicle in park apply the parking break and jack up the front wheels using jack stands remove the front tires! On the inside of the caliper are two slidebolts and on the bottom slidebolt there should be a bolt remove it and flip the caliper up to the top your brake pads if not worn down to nothing are held in place by a caliper anchor assembly try to turn the rotor by hand counter clockwise and clockwise if it turns then go to the passenger side and repeat! If it turns the next question is do you have four wheel drive or two? If four wheel drive then turning the rotor listen for any noise like grinding if you don't hear it on either side then you have what's called a brake hose with a deviated inner lining causing fluid to reach the caliper but returning to the master cylinder slowly? Replace the calipers by swinging them back down onto the rotor making sure your brake pads are back in place the bottom slide bolt may need to be pushed in to clear the caliper! Replace your keeper bolt but do not over tighten the retaining bolt use a torque guage or try to recall how much force you exerted to loosen the bolt! Overtightening the bolt will break it and loss of braking can result! If you still cannot move in reverse then the clutches in the transmission may be worn out or the reverse gear may be worn and rebuilding the transmission is required! First see if the wheels turn while you have the tires on the vehicle usually it is a bearing or a brake pad has met the end of its lufe and needs to be replaced? I hope this helps you!

must determine if it lost spark or fuel to continue...

If the thermostat is not opening (coolant circulating) and getting coolant through the inlet hose of the heater core you will not get any heat. If the thermostat is working then the heater core is clogged. Some folks take the heater inlet and outlet hose off and flush each end with a garden hose, got to give it enough pressure to unclog the core.

if only the reverse is affected it will not be the converter,if you have no drive in any gears yes the converter drive splines may have stripped but when it happened on my 89 nissan skyline wagon a loud bang was heard when this occurred and i doubt you would have missed this,most likely a snapped reverse band

Brake fluid.

Is it just one door? The operating solenoid may be loose. Try and pinpoint the noise.

are you getting fuel pressure on the fuel rail , if not then you either have a bad pump or could have a short going to the pump ck for 12 volts to the pump and also ck the ground you may have a short ,ck continuity on all wires , this is not a vacuum problem should still start even if you have a vacuum leak will run bad but should still run , my guess is the pump or wires ,

if your engine is an over head camshaft you need special tools if not aling timing marks on the chine gears

there is a fuse in the output line of the alternator, but the colors you describe don't sound right, the only way you could find if one of these wires is ground would be to connect a multi-meter or battery continuity tester to ground and touch each wire(make sure battery is disconnected first) with the other lead and see if its grounded

The overdrive light is flashing due to a fault within the transmission. A scan tool is needed to retrieve the codes to see what part of the transmission has a fault.

hard job , what is your problem

Im just guessing here, but some cup holder have a rubber piece in the bottom, There may be screws under these, if not most consoles have a center cover that can be pried up and removed and there should be screws under that cover. Pry carefully as you could damage the cover. If it don't come with light prying chances are it is not made to come off. Some times the arm rest has to be remove to get to screws that hold these covers on. I hope this helps you get to what you want. I wish you luck.