20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Expedition - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If one side of your expedition is squatting.... look at your shocks and springs, parts of your suspension. Your best bet is to take it to a professional and have him take a look at it. Suspension isn't something to mess with unless you really know what you are doing.

Here is how. while the vehicle is running just unplug a coil listen to see if the it starts running rough it's good if so plug that coil back in and go to the next and do the same and if the motor dose not change when you unplug it then your coil could be bad next you will need a test light and make sure there is power to the coil plug and if there is then you will need a coil. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tom_db3a51ff0ca57f20

It could be that the brake light switch is adjusted too close to the top. Set the switch where the pedal has to move 3/8 to 1/2 inch before the lamps come on. If this is it, it's an easy fix...

Does it turn over, if so, check fuel pump.

usually fuse blown

I have never heard of a reason to replace brake hard lines. Thier are short flexable ones that can replaced but no reason to unless someone put the wrong fluid in and swelled the rubber parts. In that case you would also need wheel cylinders and a master cylinder

OK, here is an update - The torque booster pump broke, so I had transmission rebuilt at Benchmark. So far a year and 20K miles later we have no problems.

sorry to ask this but...did you check if there's power? This line is fused as well and could've been blown. I'd check power on that circuit just before the pump. I would run a wire to the battery directly to the pump just to make sure the pump is good. Once you know the pump is good, there's power on the normal circuit (just before the pump), I would start looking at the height sensors and other relays. Keep in mind the air pump power line is shared with other items like the speed sensitive steering. Its a process of troubleshooting.

it depends how many tooth you are off on the cam or crank gears. sometimes vehicles will start but will run real rough being half a tooth to one tooth off time. if you are way off time on both banks your vehicle will not start because valve timing to igntion timing are not in sync.

Remove inner door panel...Push window up with hand until you can grasp the top edge...Bring to top and hold in place with packing tape...You will need to replace regulator/motor ...saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Doubt you can You will need to look the code up & need shop to diagnose it If you have no professional scan tool, your not working on anything but mechanical issues

Code 171 and 174 are for bank 1 and 2 running too lean. The engine has compensated as rich as it can go, and it is still to lean. This does not necessarily mean your mixture is bad, but something (a sensor) is telling the ECM to correct lean. The oxygen sensors alert the ECM to how lean/rich the exhaust is, and then the ECM trips a code. Maybe you have a bad oxy. sensor, but since there are 4 of them (2 per bank), I don't think they could all go at once.

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-------NO ------ STOP USING IT NOW-- STOP-- NO MORE USING IT---- AT ALL---- The fluid will be gone Go to ---Drivetrain.Com Look up your transfer case-- by make & model There is a round label on it-have to get under truck to see it They have case savers, where you epoxy the hole & install the part But you have to pull the case & completely rebuild it

Open the door from the other side. Then... remove the inner door panel and the plastic sheeting that isolates the interior of the door from the back of the door's upholstery panel. Be careful with that plastic so you don't damage any more of it than you have to. Find the linkage between the door handle and the strike mechanism. One piece of that linkage is probably disconnected. Reconnect it (you may need a minor clip from the auto parts place, or you may be able to fashion something from wire or a bobbypin). Tape the plastic back on the door and reinstall the inner door panel. Test the door to be sure it opens correctly.

It means the motor hasn't completed it's drive cycle. If you've had work done and the battery was disconnected it sometimes trips the code. If it doesn't go away by itself after about 30 miles or so you might need to get the computer reset at a shop.

For the years 1997 to 2002 it is typical. I replaced both upper and lower. Bought them from Advanced Auto and they loaned me the tool kit to do it. Make sure that you get the lower one up high enough so the ring seats correctly. It's usually time to replace them every 100,000 to 150,000 miles in order to maintain the Expedition because the SUV is so heavy.

Get a Chiltons repair book it may have the wiring diagram You need.