1991 Dodge Daytona - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

on the midle of the engine run whit timing belt

There is a short somewhere along the line that is causing this. Not grounded correctly

check your neg connections

sound like you have a fuel pump going bad in the tank.

Google itYou can go to YOU TUBE VIDEO also

First check for a poor ground.Try grounding the socket somewhere else on the body and see if they will come on.

NAPA is a good place to start, can also check rockautoparts.com

Well, of course it depends on the problem.If it's a solenoid or valve body problem, it can be fixed in the car.Bigger problems may require a transaxle replacement. You'll need to get a couple of estimates to make the decision.

could be the door sensor went bad

Check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Oil leak can be attributed to several factors.
1. Gasket failure.
2. Uncontrolled Crank case pressure Failure.

RECOMENDATION:
Tighten both the valve cover and oil pan bolts.
Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve and vacuum line.,

INFO: PCV
This is a valve causes a negative vacuum on the engine while its running, As to say if it had a leak in a valve cover it should not be leaking while its running, only when the engine it turned off.

Hope this tip guides you in the correct direction to solve this problem.

R/
David

ARE YOU SURE ITS NOT UNDER THE HOOD ON THE AIR CLEANER OR FIREWALL.

have no pic but it is located in the trans axle on top about 4-6" in from the passenger side half shaft were it enters the trans axle.its were the speedometer cable connects to it.there should be an electrical connection at the site.i believe this system was used before they also added one behind the instrument cluster.

no, the drive belt does but the timing does not

the fuse might be good, but the flasher canister is bad, located near fuse panel

your best bet would be to have a mechanic you trust evaluate this car. if the car has been winter driven since 1991, there is a possibility there might not be much structural integrity in the underbody. the shake could be a simple wheel balance issue, but the front end should be inspected. my personal feeling is that this car requires alot more repairs than it is worth, but as i said, someone you trust should look at it. its hard to say if it's worth fixing when i cant see it!

you can get help from autozone

could be a bad vaccum leak check any and all lines going to and from the tranny if these are ok you may have a bad torque converter the clutches inside are seizes up. also check your regulator to make sure that it is tight and that all connections are good.

Check the fuse

Tune it up