2005 Nissan Sentra - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

do not jury rig the pressure lines!!! ever, it can go as high as 60 PSI, it is no carb here and if it leaks a fire is never fun. use only parts rated for fuel injection , even clamps too.

turn key and 2nd person hears the lick and finds it if not PRNDL switch bad too. answering for USA cars only. me. 1.8 L or 2.5L engine not told or VIN and I tell you. auto trans or manual trans./? not told or VIN. the relay is not named that on this cars A:/T relay is called park neutral position relay PnP m/T is called clutch relay .2 fuses must be good, one is huge 40amp if A.T the PRNDL switch must be good and key switch ST pin and then Pnp in photo below. and last the starter not dead. called the relay box, under hood.

171 is lean bank 1, JUST 1 DTC NO OTHERS? a FORD car found on road DEAD, means lost of things will be bad. parked and forgotten by other,including BAD FUEL (and collateral effects OF BAD FUEL) lean has lots of reasons, EFI it is the list is kinda short. in shop we use tools and meter to learn truth. Diagnose. 1: it is lean fuel pressure is way too low. BAD FPR (WE USE A GAUGE TOOL TO PROVE THAT EASY , RAIL TESTED. 2: fuel bad. , Old cars parked and not used get bad fuel. 3: clogged fuel filer, injectors or weak pump. from bad fuel. 4: Air cleaner packed, 17 years old , omg bad. 5:yes vacuum leaks, in shop we use smoke machine to find vacuum leaks. VAST PART HERE CAN LEAK . HOSE AND MANY MANY THINGS. But facum 6: WEAK MAF SENSOR OR ONLY NEEDS CLEANING OLD MAFS COKE UP, WITH ROAD GRIME AND READS LOW WHEN THE READ LOW INJECTORS GO LEAN. 7: BAD FRONT 02 SENSOR. (DEAD OF HEATER IN IT DEAD) vacuum leaks cause the MAF to read wrong that is because vacuum leans here, are UNMETERED AIR and that is never good on this EFI system. SO you are on track to bird dog vacuum leaks. pinch vacuum hoses to find them. or block off huge vacuum hose to brake booster. (do not drive like that) see of any hose blocked ,ends the leak. EGR casing has cracked bad and sucks air , seen some with EGR base gasket cracked and sucking air like mad. see most of them and fixed them., hoses cracked sucking air. manifold gaskets, leaking, air (vac leak) even the lower injector seals (orings) can be cracked and sucking air like made, all things to the Intake manifold must not leak air only TV and MAF path are allowed to leak, called metered air that is it, I have solve many ,even made home made smoke machine to find them.(engine off test)

There is an inline filter under the hood you know it alls

Hello,
Often the emissions system can keep an engine from starting. The most common issue is the MAF, ( mass air flow ), sensor.

If you can locate the air intake duct, ( this is the duct work that your air filter sits in ), between the location of the filter towards the engine, right on top of the duct you should see a small device with a plug that has 4 or 5 wires. Very carefull disconnect the plug. Now try to start your engine. If it starts, you should get a new MAF.

I hope this helps you.
Donnie

Hi, I'm not sure, but check and see if the back seats lay down. That if you can get inside the car of course.

The chain has a total of82 links. You should have at least 1 link that is marked. Place that one on the mark of your crankshaft. Now going up to the intake side there will be 29 links between the cam colored link and the intakes colored link. Now go up the other way to your exhaust cam. There will be 34 blank links and then the colored one for the exhaust cam. Afterwords you should have 11 links between the marked cam links. I hope this will help all of the dozens of folks who had or has the same issue.

ther vare 2 or 3 the main one is usually located under the dash on the firewall on drivers side other main one for fans blwers and a,c and engine components is usually under the hood near the battery

the diagram should be on the outside or inside of the fuse panel cover. Not there? You can go to autozone or advance auto and look at there books for free, or you can ask them to print it for you. If you're not happy with that you can stop at a nissan dealer (used) and look at one of their 2005 models, or ask them to help. They will try to get you to trade in though lol.

SMART ENTRANCE CONTROL UNIT PFP:28596 Description EKS003A2 OUTLINE The smart entrance control unit totally controls the following body electrical system operations. ? Warning chime ? Rear window defogger and door mirror defogger ? Power door locks ? Remote keyless entry system ? Vehicle security system ? Interior lamp ? Battery saver control BATTERY SAVER CONTROL Interior Lamp/Map Lamp/Vanity Lamps The lamps turn off automatically when the interior lamp, map lamp or/and vanity lamps are illuminated with the ignition key in the OFF position, if the lamp remains lit by the door switch open signal or if the lamp switch is in the ON position for approximately 10 minutes. After lamps are turned off by the battery saver system, the lamps illuminate again when: ? Driver's door is locked or unlocked, ? Door is opened or closed, ? Key is inserted into or removed from the ignition key cylinder. Rear Window Defogger/Door Mirror Defogger Rear window defogger and door mirror defogger are turned off approximately 15 minutes after the rear window defogger switch is turned on. Warning chime Key switch (Insert) Ignition switch (ON) Lighting switch (1st or 2nd) Seat belt buckle switch LH Front door switch LH Warning chime (located in smart entrance control unit) Does it have power locks ? TIME CONTROL UNIT PFP:28491 Description (Without Power Door Locks) EKS003A6 OUTLINE The time control unit totally controls the following body electrical system operations. ? Warning chime ? Rear window defogger INPUT/OUTPUT System Input Output Warning chime Key switch (Insert) Ignition switch (ON) Lighting switch (1st or 2nd) Seat belt buckle switch LH Front door switch LH Warning chime (located in time control unit) Rear window defogger Ignition switch (ON) Rear window defogger switch Rear window defogger relay

I really think you should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, parts info, wiring diag, electrical diag, fuse diag, error codes, etc everything

A lot of times original equipment manufacturers make the best for your car when you go and get something that submarket it's not going to work as well as it would getting it from the dealership so that's probably where your problem lies the one from the dealership works the one from AutoZone or O'Reilly's does not work

Possibly wheel bearing/s wearing out, or ball joints wearing.

If the dealer is calling a head gasket i would trust them. Water on the dipstick isnt something you would see. chances are coolant is getting into the cylinders and burning as you drive so you are probably low on coolant and theres enough to flow when the engine rpm is high. Which would allow some heat when driving and none when idling. Also if there was water in the engine, it would sit at the bottom due to oil being lighter than water so if anything it would just look like you ave to much oil on the dipstick. The steam your seeing might actually be exhaust fumes from a blown head gasket

That's all well and good, but do I turn clockwise or counterclockwise to move the lights up or down?

My 05 sentra with 79k miles heat will warm up and then get cold after a mile of driving, we have tried to get the air pocket out, the mechanic stated he thought it could be a blown head gasket, another mechanic said it was a bad heater core. Any advice would be appreciated.

Check the fuses, or the whole knob assembly went bad.

It sounds like your fans are not operating properly. When u accelerate cool air is forced through the radiator & condenser which can cause that problem , u can change the thermo. for maintenance anyway. Use fresh 50/50 coolant mixture. Ck those fans

I would check for heat damaged fuel pump connectors and also replace the fuel pump relay.

Disconnect battery for 15 minutes, and then reconnect. Codes reset, but you will have to reset radio , you have code dont you