20 Most Recent 2005 Ford F-150 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Problem is inside your transfer case. Check with a transmission shop. To do one costs about $450 bucks.

Sounds like you have a bad power draw. Start by checking all your grounds then your power source. You might have a power source grounding out, pinched wire. Good luck.

start by replacing spark plugs, then ignition coil

Maybe the gas pump or the ignition. Bring it to a near auto parts store and they will diagnose with a scanner.

You can't remove the rotors because the emergency brake is tight on the inside of the rotors. Make sure it's not engaged when you are working on the rear brakes. Block the front tires for saftey. Then you have to remove the rear calipers from the mounting brackets, there are two bolts that hold the calipers on. Make sure you hang the calipers securily with some wire so you don't damage the rubber brake line hose. Then you need to adjust the emergency parking brake shoes in order to remove the rotors. Theres a rubber plug on the backside of the rear hubs, once you look at the back of the hub you'll see the plug. It's on the top. Once you take out the plug, you need to use a screw driver to turn the star spindel. You need to turn the star spindel counter-clockwise in order to give yourself enough clearance to remove the rotors. The beauty of this design is that ford incorporated a drum and caliper system together, but it's difficult to take off the rotors if the emergency brake shoes are to tight. The inside of the rotors acts as the drums for the emergency brake system. I've done this and it's not that hard, but, I did have to replace the emergency brake shoes because they were worn out and the shoes fell off the metal backing plates when I finally got the rotors to come off. They only glued these shoes onto the backing plates, they don't rivet them so take your time getting the rotors off or you can damage the emergency brake shoes, but if you do they are cheap at napa. My service guide says to install the new rotors, use a couple of lug nuts to hold it on, then adjust the star spindal for the emergency brake all the way clockwise until you can't turn it anymore, then you must back it off 8 clicks counter-clockwise. Make sure the emergency brake is not engaged when you are doing this, the 8 clicks backwards compensates for when you do engage the parking brake because the shoes expands outwards. This adjustment sets the emergency brakes so they work properly. Once the emergency brake is properly set you can't remove the rear rotors, which is what your initial problem is. Then install the rubber plug back in the hole, put on the new pads and calipers and you're good to go.

check that control module is operational

1. Auto inspections of the vehicle may produce results contributing towards restoration. For example, the auto technician makes the evaluation as separate arrangement from which problematic areas are ascertainable. The result findings are documented as diagnostic draft plans from which repair authorizations are achievable. At which point, diagnostic without repair requirements would least requires any further procedures. However, once the vehicles diagnostics produce result requiring expert vehicle repairs, the next sequence of procedures are initiated. First, vehicle repairs require constituent components either permanent parts or depleteable resources constituents prior to workshop initiation plans. Auto technician diagnostic plans would usually contain the damage of the vehicle. A decision to commence restoration of the faults would produce estimate drafts in parts repaired for either replacement acquirable, leasable or alternately. The next sequence includes calculations estimates in resources that would be required contributing towards entire workshop restoration process procedures.

check gear oil and pray the bearing ant mess up because it sound like you fried the bearrings

TRY BACKING UP TO RELEASE PRESSURE ON 4X4.

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From my experience there's a motor on the transfer case(C) that engages the 4wd --this is controlled by an electronic relay(B) mounted in the (approx.) rear well/behind door--- inside the vehicle which in turn is controlled by the god almighty computer(A) and what buttons you push. If A doesn't talk to B---C does not work ---A talks to B but B does not talk to C same result--If A talks to B and B talks to C but C does not work same results. If your handy with a meter you can check out some of this to see if power is getting to the motor on the transfer case-- Now do to various sensors on vehicle this may cause it not to function for safety reasons which at this time are unknown(mismatched tires--wrong size tires--etc --sensors on wheels --I know it sounds goofy but this stuff happens) --but you might be able to Advance Auto, Auto Zone or someone with a code reader/computer and check it out -- also you can try some Ford Forums and see if this has happened to anybody else--- some times it's something simple as in a corroded/broken wire--- there's a lot of issues going on with

deteriorating wire connections across the board amongst a lot of vehicles -- check to see if you can obtain a wiring diagram from Auto Zone---the best I can for now

Things to check. Is the starter working? Is your changed battery fully charged Check all battery cables for corrosion or loose connections. Both neg and positive cables both ends. Dirty or loose cables will not work to let the power through the way it should.

Either it's your switch, or your starter solenoid

Burning gasoline generates some water. When your truck is cold, that water condenses in the muffler. Normal.

try to jack it up before trying to lock hubs, you should feel the hub click into place,