20 Most Recent 1986 Volkswagen Wagon Camper Questions & Answers

Usually on a plate next to drivers seat, either behind the seat on bulkhead or on part of "floor" that seat mounts to.

Hi Paul,

This should help,

Plug Types/Application
7 Way - RV Trailers, Horse and Utility Trailers
6 Way - Horse, Stock and Utility
4 Way - Utility Trailers

Columns are Color, Function, Mark on the plug.

Seven wire Trailer plugs:

Horse, stock or utility trailers:
White = Ground - 1
Blue = Electric Brakes - 2
Brown = Tail and clearance lights - 3
Black = Battery, aux power - 4
Yellow = Left turn/Brake - 5
Green = Right turn Brake - 6
Orange or Purple (not both) = Auxilliary or Reverse - 7

Recreational Vehicle:
White = Ground - 1
Blue = Electric Brakes - 2
Green = Tail and clearance lights - 3
Black = Battery, aux power - 4
Red = Left turn/Brake - 5
Brown = Right turn Brake - 6
Yellow = Auxilliary or Reverse - 7


Six wire trailer plugs:

Horse, stock or utility trailers:
White = Ground - GD
Yellow = Left turn/Brake -LT
Green = Right turn Brake -RT
Brown = Tail and clearance lights - TM
Red or Black (not both) = Battery, aux power - A
Blue = Electric Brakes - S

Recreational Vehicle: (color, use, plug mark)
White = Ground - GD
Brown = Right turn Brake - RT
Green = Tail and clearance lights -TM
Black = Battery, aux power - A
Red = Left turn/Brake - LT
Blue = Electric Brakes - S


Four wire plugs:
White = Ground
Yellow = Left turn/Brake
Green = Right turn Brake
Brown = Tail and clearance lights


Ground should be 10ga.
Others 14 ga

Best regards
Mike

Interesting, what was done to the transmission... complete rebuild or just clutch? "Striped" recently or 3000 mi ago? It sounds like the clutch has failed but without more diagnostic information an exact answer is impossible

how to wire a tachometer to a 86 vw golf diesel?

It depends on what options your camper has, i.e. pop-up top, refrigerator, sink and general overall condition and mileage. I've seen alot around $2000.00 to $10,000 for a Westfalia with a pop-up top, and 40,000 miles.

Short answer...not too tough. Longer more useful answer... Get quality urethane replacement. Put car in 1st with gear lever. Block wheels and climb under with (I think10mm and 13mm) wrenches. Undo grub screw on coupler (to linkage). Undo through bolt on coupler. Push linkage forward and remove bits. Replace bits with new ones and replace through bolt. Have friend carefully put shift lever in about 1st gear position and guide coupler onto other shaft. Tighten grub screw.

It depends on the bolt type. 6pt bolt head (m11) - 1st 35 ft-lb, 2nd 50 then 3rd 65. warm engine and re-check at 65. After 1000 miles turn 90-degrees. 12pt (m12) 1st 29 lb-ft, 2nd 43, 3rd turn 90-degrees, 4th turn 90-degrees, warm engine and turn another 90-degrees. After 1000 miles turn ANOTHER 90-degrees.

If it is really a 1986 the spec is 5 degrees before top dead center at idle. Much better (and easier) to set at 35 degrees BTDC at 3000 rpm.

this is caused by a fluid leak in the braking system, either the master brake cylinder, brake lines/hoses, or wheel cylinders/calipers. Inspect or have a professional inspect it for you and replace as needed. brakes are nothing to be stingey about. Hope this helps.

You will need to re-post with better symptoms. ON a cold day the exhaust will steam as much of it is water vapor. However, if the exhaust smells of coolant (sickly sweet) then you have a dying engine in need of a rebuild/replacement. No heater? In what way is there no heater? What is a "working bolt?"

it might be breathers i have the same

First check fuses. Then check wires. Then test switch. After all these are exhausted you can think about replacing the fan. It ain't easy. Get a Bently Workshop Manual as it is quite involved. Also get a fan replacement clip set for reassembly. In a nutshell, the fan is encased in the air distribution box (clever, eh?) and that is buried behind the dash... which must come out! Then you have to split the box by cutting it open at the seams, replace the motor/fan, and reassemble with the nifty clips and then reassemble your dash. If it sounds like too much fun, you are right. I lived without a fan for years for this very reason.

The battery should be under the front passenger seat. Move the seat forward as far as it will go, and you'll see a metal plate (may be under the carpet), which comes off with four Phillips screws. To actually get the battery out, you will need to remove the seat.

Please re-post your question as it sounds like you are talking about the later vanagon and not the bay-window type 2 since the bay-window units did not have fancy idle control and stabilizer units.

I looked it up in the manual, but it says that your car is not equipped with a MAF sensor. You car is before OBD and computers were put in to run the car. It uses old fashon tech.

Dropping the fuel tank is rather involved. Beyond this sort of Q&A format.I suggest you get a Bently Workshop Manual and a seal kit from gowesty.com or similar.Also plan on replacing fuel hoses and a new filter would be a good idea.One word of caution. The plastic overflow tanks in each wheel well have nipples for the fuel lines that become quite fragile so BE CAREFUL! The tanks are not available new.

carb jets dirty,or carb needs an overhaul,roady

More than likely it needs the "cup" part on the transmission as they are prone to failure. The part is available and the job is not too awful. The Bently Manual is a much better reference and will walk you through it.

i would need to hear the noise ,could be anything from the engine to a drive shaft loose ,they are renown for them allen headed bolts coming loose on the inner drive shafts

I don't know about a caddy engine but a very successful transplant is the 2c toyota turbo engine.