20 Most Recent 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra - Page 6 Questions & Answers

What is the problem with the car.

Sometimes vehicles from the 1990s that are Ford have a problem with the spark plugs wearing down the electrodes until gas builds up and shoots the spark plug out of its threads when too much gas builds up in a cylinder and it detonates.

Have you changed the spark plug after changing the plug boot and ignition coil?

If the car won't turn over, the battery might be dead or low on charge.

Good luck on this repair.

Hmm,
No drama prior? Seems crazy that all this occured after having battery out of car for awhile....

http://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/ford/mustang/1999

could be cam or crank sensor. CEL light on too?

Fix the Ford P1233 FPDM Fuel No Start Problem Here's a fix for that no-start condition on 2004-2008 Ford trucks. The FPDM (fuel pressure driver module) usually shows up as a P1233 diagnostic trouble code (OBD-II) when the truck's codes are read. A Ford P1233 code is described as Fuel Pump Driver Module Offline or Fuel System Disabled or Offline. A search on Google for Ford P1233 shows that this P1233 DTC code is not limited to being a problem on just Ford trucks. Others with the Focus, Mustang, Town Car, etc. also experience this problem.
You may experience stalling, no-starts, random no-starts, or other potential symptoms. A quick search over at MotorcraftService.com (a Ford service web site), they offer the following possible causes if the P1233 code is triggered:

• Inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch needs to be reset.
• Open FPDM ground circuit
• Open circuit to FPDM PWR RLY
• Open FPDM PWR circuit
• Open or shorted FPM circuit (engine should start).
• Damaged IFS switch.http://www.fordf150.net/images/articles/fpdm4.jpg try link hope this helps it may be it would hate for you to change fuel pump and it not be fuel pump
  

Once the top of the module is unbolted from the tank you should be able to lift it up enough to shine a flashlight into the tank. There will be two tabs that need to be squeezed to unlock the lower part of the fuel pump module from the tank. Pay attention to the orientation of the lower part of the pump. The new one will need to go in exactly the same way. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

yes but proabably not

Here is a link that I found that you dont have to pay for.........

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1999/make/ford/model/mustang/1999_ford_mustang_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Good luck.......

The clutch plate is close to failure, replace it asap.

yoy have to takke the h pipe down, take out mt . mount bolts trans crossmember bolts, drop h. pipe when you jack up engine you will havw to take steering loose from rack and pinon. push trans all the way over should give you enough room to do what you need to do.

you have the polarity reversed on thosse two items just swap the 2 wires i bet that will cure the problem.

you don't adjust it. theres a pulley that keeps the tension on the belt. read the handbook and it will show you where to look for the arrow that tells you between this mark and that mark is the right tension. if its not in that area, then you need a new belt. the tensioner pulley keeps it tight

You don't unless you have papers or open the rear end and see

Its normal if your ac is on, if its on off when your using the ac it could be that the refrigerant is low and will not be sufficient to keep it on.

Generally, you can check and test alternator with this procedure...

1. Clean the positive and negative battery terminals to ensure a good connection with the tester's clamps.
2. Connect the positive and negative clamps to the appropriate battery terminals. The clamps must make firm contact with the battery terminals or the test results will be inaccurate or the tester may not work at all.
3. Turn the tester on and choose the option for "full charging system test." This will test your battery, starter and alternator and provide the most accurate picture of the problem.
4. Follow the directions on the tester's screen. These instructions will include cranking the vehicle after the battery test is performed, holding the engine at a certain RPM range and turning on certain accessories.
5. Read the results displayed on the tester's screen. The tester should scroll through the results, starting with the battery, then the starter and finally the alternator. An alternator test result showing diode ripple problems indicates a bad alternator.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Step 2 Connect the positive and negative clamps to the appropriate battery terminals. The clamps must make firm contact with the battery terminals or the test results will be inaccurate or the tester may not work at all.

Step 3 Turn the tester on and choose the option for "full charging system test." This will test your battery, starter and alternator and provide the most accurate picture of the problem.

Step 4 Follow the directions on the tester's screen. These instructions will include cranking the vehicle after the battery test is performed, holding the engine at a certain RPM range and turning on certain accessories.

Step 5 Read the results displayed on the tester's screen. The tester should scroll through the results, starting with the battery, then the starter and finally the alternator. An alternator test result showing diode ripple problems indicates a bad alternator.

Read more: How to Test a Car's Alternator | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2079784_test-cars-alternator.html#ixzz0spTYveGJ

Bracket racing is trying to run the same time, time after time. Running agaist some one faster or slower. So say you run 10.90 they run 9.90 you need to start 1 full second ahead of him and not try to hurry when you see him catching up. You need to dial in your start time when he stages. which in a case like this you just punch and go on the .4 or .5 sec. if you running against some one slower than you you dial in then difference in time if your running 9.90's they running 11.90's you dial in 2 second of delay on his stage or who ever hits the lights last. Keep the same delay or jump the light. Always dial in a bit less than your fastest time, that way you never break out.

If he knows anything about cars, he could have crawled under car & cut fuel lines &/or power or ground wires to fuelpump. Both are exposed under car by gas tank.

The starter is gone out or the bolts holding have come loose not letting it engage