1995 Ford Econoline - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I mounted a "horn button" i.e. (momentary switch)on the dash 4 inches from the key switch drilled a hole and ran wires from it to the fuse box by the radiator then attach the wires to a "new relay" which I wired to a 12 v source and ground then splice the pos/out of the new relay to the hot positive/out to the starter wire from the start relay in the the fuse box. that's how i fixed fixed my 2001 Ford Taurus. Now to start the car I turn the key to the on position and push the "horn/start " button and I'm good! This cost 37 dollars for the switch, relay, wire, crimp connectors, zip ties and liquid electric tape. Ko.

no the problem is in the start or ignition relay

Please change the mechanic

I looked at e150, 5.0L engine. Does the blower motor work? If so, does the engine reach normal operating temp? If so, are the heater hoses, hot? Circulation through heater core? Next, maybe a temp door under the dash has a problem?

SHOULD BE ON THE FUSE BOX. WHAT I WOULD DO IS TURN ON MY HAZER LIGHT FOLLOW THE CLICK, THE ONE NEXT TO IT IS THE FLASHER.

Check your local Yellow Pages , or Yellow Pages on Line ,

YOU DON'T NEED A DIAGRAM BECAUSE POWER IS GOING TO THE SEAT THE PROBLEM IS WITH EITHER THE CONNECTOR TO THE SEAT FROM THE SWITCH OR THE SWITCH ITSELF WHICH IS WHERE WE WILL START HERE IN MOST CASES THE CONTACTS ON THE SWITCH HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH OXIDIZED BURN MARKS THAT HAPPEN FROM NORMAL USE SO TAKE OUT THE SEAT CONTROL SWITCH AND OPEN IT UP AND CLEAN THE CONTACTS USING A TRIMMED EMERY BOARD THAT WOMEN USE FOR THEIR NAILS THIS WILL BRING THE SWITCH CONTACTS BACK TO SHINY AGAIN USE A CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE ON THE CONTACTS JUST A LITTLE HEAR YOU DON'T NEED A LOT THGE SIZE OF A SPRINKLE FROM A COOKIE WILL DO ON EACH ONE ALSO CLEAN THE PRONGS OF THE SWITCH THAT THE CONNECTOR PLUG INTO AND THE CONNECTOR ITSELF ALCOHOL WILL HELP HERE AND YOU MUST MAKE SURE ANY OXIDATION CORROSION OLD DRIED UP GREASE IS OFF ALL CONTACTS THEN GO TO THE SEATS CONNECTOR FOR THE MOTOR AND DO THE SAME THING THIS WILL CORRECT YOUR PROBLEM AND REMEMBER YEARS OF HEATFROM THE HEATER AND OXIDATION/CORROSION HAVE TAKEN PLACE HEAR SO IT NEEDS THIS HELP AS DO ALL YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS UNDER THE HOOD AND THE CHASSIS THE USE OF CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE IS WHAT YOU NEED DON'T USE LITHIUM OR DIE ELECTRIC GREASE FOR SPARK PLUGS THATS A MISTAKE AND WILL MAKE THINGS WORSE STOP AT A ELECTRICAL SUPPLY HOUSE OR MACHINE SHOP TO BUY THIS STUFF NOT RADIO SHACK IT COSTS ABOUT $10-15 BUCKS FOR NICE SIZED TUBE THAT WILL LAST FOR YEARS AND YEARS OF SERVICE YOU SEE THE DIFFERENCE IN THE GAS PEDDLE AFTER YOU USE THIS ON YOUR BATTERY CABLES AND ALL SENSORS THE VOLTAGE TRANSFER WILL BE 100% AND LIKE NEW AND YOUR GAS PEDDLE WILL GET A STIFFER FEEL TO IT BECAUSE YOUR WHOLE SYSTEM WILL BE FUNCTIONING AT THE TOP OF ITS GAME ELECTRICALLY AND THIS WILL GIVE YOUR TRUCK BETTER MILEAGE BECAUSE COMPUTER CONTROLLED VEHICLES TRANSMIT ELECTRICAL VOLTAGE SIGNALS FROM SENSORS TO THE COMPUTER FOR OPTIMUM RUNNING CONDITIONS AND FUEL MANAGEMENT SO DO THESE THINGS YOUR A LUCKY PERSON TO FIND THIS OUT WHILE ASKING ABOUT YOUR POWER SEAT AND IF YOU THINK ABOUT IT NOBODY EVER PAYS ATTENTION TO THIS STUFF THEY ONLY DO TUNE UPS AND CHANGE THE OIL WELL THIS IS YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TUNE UP YOU'LL THANK ME FOR THIS ONE YOU HAVE 40 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE HERE GUIDING YOU (MG CHEMICALS IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE ON THE MARKET TO THIS DAY AND IT'S THE ONLY ONE I'VE USED FOR YEARS)IF YOU CAN NOT FIND IT AT A SHOP SUPPLY GO TO AMAZON AND DO THE WORK WHEN IT COMES IN THE MAIL DO NOT USE OTHER GREASE'S OR SPRAYS THEY DON'T LAST GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

Check for a loose joint on the drag link.

You should be able to if you have the proper cord. If your portable cooler normally runs on 110 volt household current you will need a converter. If it's 12 volts you should be able plug it right into the socket.

I would start with replacing the temperature sensor.

hello,the predominant reason why all the defect\'s that you explain,that are prevalent on your vehicle are, (1)the abs system controls more than the anti skidding element,as various signals are processed through the main computer and then the correct information is sent to the \'actuator\'s, ie; the rotational speed of the wheels to make the speedometer,and subsequently the odometer display correctly,your problems may only be a simple remedy as a brake light switch,or a fuse,or often a dirty wheel speed sensor.you do need to get a local auto technician to \'scan\' the vehicles various computers for any fault codes,and do additional live data checks to see if the various wheel speed sensors are in fact transmitting the signals to the \'modulator/abs computer,check all fusible links,also asess the conditions of the multi plugs and wiring harnesses ,as well as the main relay\'s,as \'oxidization\' builds up rapidly,especially on older vehicles,impeding the flow of signals/current/voltage.hope that helps, regards.

That fuse should be an inline meaning its on the hot wire to the fan. Be a twist apart plastic on the wire.

Purchase a Haynes repair manual for your vehicle. It should have step by step instructions with pictures showing how to replace a park brake cable. Good luck, I hope this helps!

do you have spark and fuel pressure ? will it start on starting fluid sprayed into the intake ?

Replace switch heater that is looks like a dial is alone above panel

It's behind right hand front cowl panel.

On a 95 e-150 or any of them theres no code 115 ,it goes from 114-116 wrong number ,check it again

Are you getting power to the starter solenoid ?

Follow lower Radiator hose to engine block it's under the hose there.

Usually the problem is due to a dirty throttle body or a faulty idle air control valve. Stalling in reverse and not in drive is unusual.