20 Most Recent 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab - Page 7 Questions & Answers

If you have a clogged or faulty injector it will do that exact same problem.... Start with that.. Try a inexpensive injector cleaner and see if it helps... Warning these product are helpful at best, but not a cure all like they are proposed to be...

what you need to do is add some sulfur additive to the fuel to build the viscosity rateing and also check the glow plug realy itselfs to make sure when it fires that voltage is actaully getting to the glow plugs

head gasket blown

did you test your wheel sensors?

Probably the contact for the wipers in the switch. need new one.

try replacing the vehicle speed sensor

Have you changed your transmission oil and filter in a while? Would be a good idea to do so, hopefully you have caught this in time before it is a costly repair to you.

Price is not bad, the motor set up is a great motor. I have never heard of any major problems with it. You will not get 12 mpg unless you are pulling empty on a level surface or a downgrade. A more realistic number will be 8-10 mpg with a loaded trailer at normal speeds. If you travel around 55 on highways you may be able to average 12 depending on conditions. You may also look to make sure it has a transmission cooler and weather or not it has turbo. All of these things will effect your mileage.

the only way to remove the u joint from the latern ring is to remove the axle's this requires the removal of the diff cover and the axle keepers removed from the diff then they slide out (well they might require some forcefull help ) but the good news is if you support the end you don't need to remove it all the way

\just a tip after you get this fixed when you go thru mud or high water carry a small jug of clean water and give the grease seals a good splash to wash em out when you get back to the road
fords grease seals are a bit less than desireable for keeping out water /mud and cause the early demise of the u/joints i've even seen it as far as inside the diff but thats an extreeme Mudder

sounds like you've got the a4Od blues save up your money your gonna need some tranny work done soon

the od lite blinking is an indication that the transmission has a fault code find a scan tool and retrieve it so you have an idea of what's wrong and an estimate of what it's gonna cost to fix it

Im confused how do you have a direct inject diesel in a truck made 3 years before ford had such a thing 94(suposed to ) has a indirect inject diesel there is no electric wires running to the injectors there's only a pipe with very high pressure fuel running thru it
are you sure your not confusing the glow plug wires ?
they only get power to them for like 30 seconds when first starting it

whats the real problem?

It would definately be easier and probably cheaper to trade trucks than to change motors. You will have to gut the 94 engine compartment for wire harness, filters, brackets, rad, coolers, computer,sensors. You will need to find a way to fit warning lights into your dash because the 94 dash would be different. Check to make sure your fuse box will work with the diesel harness installed or that you can make it work. Fuel lines and fuel pump need to come off the 94. Diesel ones are different from gas. It will be a lot of work and time. For me the price would have to be real good. Hope this helps.

THE POWERSTROKE IS WHOLE DIFFERENT ENGINE THAN THE NON TURBO 7.3..

Sounds like leaking O-ring seals on the fuel injectors, high pressure oil leaking into the fuel rail. Have/do all 8 injectors.

check wiring to all wheel sensors if ok, then replace fuse and scan computer before it blows, this will give a genarel idea of what is wrong. good luck.

You need to replace your glow plugs,and please dont use starting fluid after you put new one in ,it will explode,I hope this helps you?

Release belt tension and remove belt. You will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet to release tensioner. Be sure to note routing of belt on pulleys for reinstallation in case the diagram decal is gone. Remove the mounting bolt and remove tensioner. Note that there is a locating pin on the back that must engage the hole in the mounting bracket. Line up the locating pin on the new tensioner with the hole in the mounting bracket. Install the tensioner mounting bolt, making sure the locating pin stays lined up. Torque to specs and reinstall the belt according to the diagram on the hood or fan shroud. Be sure all grooves of belt line up in pulleys to avoid damage. If it is just the pulley or bearing that's bad, you can sometimes purchase these separately and use the old tensioner assembly.

REPLACE BOTH BATTERIES AND CHECK DROP VOLTAGE ONT EH WIRES USUALLY CAUSE OR STARTER DROP VOLTAGE

It sounds like a bad intake manifold gasket or head gasket.