Disconnect the A/C lines sticking out of the firewall beneath the hood. They are quick disconnect fittings and require a disconnection too that is fairly cheap and available at any auto parts store.
Remove the 2 (7mm) screws holding the glove box in.
Remove the glove box.
Take out the 4 (7mm) screws in the plastic that is closest to the passengers door.
Remove the 3 screws (10mm) that hold the metal brace in that was behind the plastic previous removed.
Remove that metal bar going across the bottom of where the glove box used to be. That has 2 (10mm) screws holding it on.
Remove the wire harnesses that are attached to the blower motor. Optional: remove passenger kick panel.
Remove the 3 (10mm) nuts that are holding the blower box in place. 1 is in the middle of the passengers side firewall at the bottom of the box, the second is to the right of that one about a foot over and the 3rd is in the middle of the firewall right behind the cable that controls the outside/inside air.
Now remove the vent that goes to the windshield.
Look to the left of the box you are removing. Then yank out the evaporator until it comes out, it's strong enough to not worry about breaking anything during removal. Don't forget to unhook your a/c lines on the inside the engine bay prior to pulling the box out.
Install the replacement core in reverse order.
Also see
Ford Escort & ZX2 section for the entire index of all Ford Escort and ZX2 related articles.
Seems to me you may have two separate issues, but maybe not. Could it be that leaves, a mouse, or other debris has gotten into the fan box blocking the air flow and finally jamming the fan? It maybe possible to remove some parts under the hood to gain access to the air intake and use a shop vac to get the debris out. You may still have to replace the fan fuse, motor, or resistor as well. Also check that the radiator is properly filled, as low coolant can cause the heater to work poorly.
check your fuses ,if they are good track down the hot wire leading to your switch ,if you have power going into switch ,but not coming out going to your headlights, it might be the switch went bad,also check your ground connections
Sorry to say, But doing that is the fastest way to burn up the computer. All of them. But you could luck out . Try replacing the ignition module first.
may be you should
make a diagnostic and you can do it in a garage or you can do it by yourself
if you want to do it by yourself you need
some tools
and you can find some good ones here: chinasinoy.com
If you mean that the fan\'s two highest speeds are not working, it is probably the resistor pack. The resistor pack looks like this:The back side of the part is inserted into the blower assy - only the black plastic portion with the therminals is visible when installed. This part typically sells for less than $20 and is easily replaced with common hand tools in 30 minutes or less. Below is an overview of the heating / cooling blower assembly:Access to the resistor pack is usually from under the dashboard on the passenger side. You may end up being in an uncomfortable position in order to gain access to the switch and wiring harness plug. Make sure that you note the orientation of the part on the blower housing by marking it prior to removal or by photographing it with a camera or the camera application in your cell phone. This will help ease installation of the new part.I hope this helps and good luck!
more than likely the turning signal module is shorting out and needs to be replaced or the harness connecting to it is shorting out hence the drain.. To stop the drain remove the indicator fuse and relay from the fuse box under the hood. This will also prevent an electrical fire and get this looked at asap. from a trained professional... I would also recommend you remove the negative battery terminal.
Best if you have a wiring diagram of at least the part ofthe curcuit your going to work on (wiper circuit)That applies to any electrical issue,simply can't start yourchecking or testing without a road map.If it were to guess for you,I would say the motor has failedEven with a wiring diagram it isn't always easy to jump it once out of the car,to test it. You won't have the internalwiring diagram for the motor.The switch you can turn on & use your volt meter at thewiper motor with it disconnected,but again need to have thediagram to probe the correct wires
Before even trying a new thermostat, try blocking air flow past the radiator and engine area with some cardboard in front of the radiator. If your temp. gauge shows below half all the time, try a hotter rated thermostat, one that stays closed just a bit longer. Say your t-stat is rated at 190 degrees, get one that is rated at 193 degrees- do small raises to avoid overheating-and in the summer, you may want to go back to the lower rated t-stat.. A parts store or Ford dealer could help you pick an optional thermostat.
To replace, drain enough coolant from the radiator so the level in the engine is below the thermostat housing. Take off the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. remove retaining bolts or nuts from the housing, any other obstructions, and pull the housing off, replace thermostat, clean the gasket mating area on the housing and the engine block, use a new gasket and fit all back together. Careful not to overtighten the t-stat housing bolts: the torque specs would be small-about 15-20 foot pounds of torque-just snug them down good-you can always go back and re-tighten a little if you see a leak. So, all back together, refill coolant and overflow tank, run engine with radiator cap off till engine is hot, and thermostat opens-this will helpyou bleed air out of the system. When thermostat opens, coolant level should drop a little. Shut off the engine, top up radiator and overflow tank as necessary, and replace radiator cap. Check for leaks.
The back side of the part is inserted into the blower assy - only the black plastic portion with the therminals is visible when installed. This part typically sells for less than $20 and is easily replaced with common hand tools in 30 minutes or less. Below is an overview of the heating / cooling blower assembly:
Access to the resistor pack is usually from under the dashboard on the passenger side. You may end up being in an uncomfortable position in order to gain access to the switch and wiring harness plug. Make sure that you note the orientation of the part on the blower housing by marking it prior to removal or by photographing it with a camera or the camera application in your cell phone. This will help ease installation of the new part.I hope this helps and good luck!
