1987 Ford Ranger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+Ford+Ranger+manual+transmission.+How+to+install+the+shifter ..

There is a "block" that has wires attaching it to the distributor cap, it is the timing advance for that year model Ranger. Mine had fallen from the holding harness and landed on the exhaust manifold causing it to melt and have a direct short to the spark ditributor, causing it to "dip while idling" and also created a severe "miss" at running RPM. If you need one of those blocks, you can find one on ANY Ford in that time era, they all work. I believe it is no longer available as a new part, they'll try and sell you a new distributor to update the one you have. Keep it original, it's a classic! Hope you find your issue, I found mine and truck was running much better when it was replaced.

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10 MM

firstly the tach does not get its reading from the coil, so this wire goes somewhere else. I would get an auto electrician to check the coil issue as well as these are only low tension wires so should not get hot, this could well be your starting issues

Why do you need the pressure? I do not know of any gauge to check this pressure. If fluid does not come out when you pressure bleed the system, then you have a clutch master cylinder problem. It may have air in it , or may need to be replaced.

I am pretty sure it is below and to the right of steering column under the dash.

Your vehicle has an inertia switch, which is located on the tow board to the right of the transmission pump. Usually the fuel pump does not shut off except in the case of an accident but you can check it anyway. Being fuel injected, your fuel pump is probably in the gas tank and if there is no power to the wires coming out of the tank, you probably have a bad fuel pump

THERE IS A FUEL PUMP SHUT OFF SWITCH(INERTIA) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE KICK PANEL.INSIDE CAB UNDER DASH.IT INTERUPTS POWER TO THE PUMP IF U ARE IN A COLLISION.PUSH THE RED BUTTON ON TOP OF IT.IF THAT DOES NOT WORK CHECK FOR POWER IN AND POWER OUT.NO POWER OUT BAD SWITCH.NO POWER IN OTHER PROBLEM

Ford Ranger Fuel Pump 87 Ranger Ext Cab 2 9L V6

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indicates ignition timing 180 degrees out

Hello, I am assuming this has the 3.0L V6. Is the check engine light on? I think it probably is. If yes, then have the trouble codes read and report them back here for help with your diagnosis. My initial thoughts would be: 1. Catalytic converters plugged up (if you have an engine code reporting O2 sensor bank issues). 2. Cam shaft synchronizer (especially if you're hearing squeaking from the top of the engine on the drivers side down near the thermostat). 3. EGR Valve / IAC Valve Finally; just a regular tune-up. My money is on the Catalytic converters needing to be replaced, however please report back with trouble codes. Best regards,

https://postimg.org/image/qitbbsqrp/ Click on the link, tfi ignition module. Hope you can read it. I had to make image smaller to get more info into the diagram.

relays or fuses for relays

when car is at operating temp both heater pipes should be more or less the same temperature. If one is cold, try getting the car up in the air so the radiator or expansion tank is higher than the heater...release (carefully) the pressure cap and give the engine three good revs, see if any air comes out and heater pipes equalise. I there is no air in your system you may have a heater water valve fault. Try to locate valve and see what contols it (mechanical , electrical, vacuum)..maybe itcan be manually moved to open, maybe it neds to be replaced. If you replace it, the air must be bled from the cooling system (see above), but run car until warm with cap off and air will bubble out. always check coolant levels later when car is cold. Top up coolant as required.

https://s8.postimg.org/x2zc7x2bp/ignition_coil.jpg Click on the link. Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? Goes hot with key on, red wire with green tracer. you can use a test light to check voltage. For testing you can use digital multimeter across battery posts, have helper turn key to crank, how far does the reading drop? If it drops to zero, it is probable you won't have any spark. Generally it should not drop below 9 volts. Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. As far as testing, if the battery is down, we're just spinning our wheels.

Check there is a good spark from the ignition coil when the distributor is pulsed, if so check that the rotor is not earthing out on the distributor shaft. if no spark from the coil have it tested.

change the oil and run the fault codes take it to an accredited professional transmission specialist for a proper diagnosis

No, but the tach signal may help you determine if coil is getting signal to spark. If tach needle is moving when engine is cranking over, that means the coil primary circuit is being turned on and off, and that means the ignition control module is working.