20 Most Recent 1986 Ford Bronco II Questions & Answers

Try checking the spark plugs gap and ignition wires and cap and rotor sounds like a spark delivery problem to big of an air gap at cap/rotor or plugs what size engine? Carburetor or fuel injected? It makes a big difference

I'd use a gage and check correct fuel pressure? 2.9L engine, my info says 35--45 psi. If fuel pump has a problem, make sure gas tank is clean? The engine cranks ok, but, won't start? Did you check spark at the plugs engine cranking? I'm just trying to decide if you have more than one issue?

I'd replace dist. cap and rotor button. There might also be a crankshaft position sensor near the crank. Might be bad. Also,check the MAP sensor and vacuum to it. don-ohio (:^)

Pretty nice vehicle... You have to determine a couple of basics before you even go in... Me-thinks that car came with R12 Freon refrigerant... Kits are available.... and ALL tools you need to convert to R134a re available on AMAZON & eBay... Not a tough job... Most of your parts (or modern replacements are available on Rockauto... RockAuto Parts Catalog R12 and R134a LUBRICANTS are NOT compatible... (not not not) So you'd be VERY wise to flush all existing A/C elements before you start... Structurally the systems are identical. You need only replace all the parts... Achieve a STABLE VACUUM (meaning it closed... & will "likely hold a charge" and fill with the appropriate amount of new "refrigerant. Finally It is very important to properly lable the vehicle with WHAT-EVER "REFRIGERANT" is being used... Again... there are now several... and mixing them is ill-advised. If you are planning to source your parts from auto SALVAGE... Make sure you buy and place a new FRONT SEAL on the PREVIOUSLY OWNED (used) compressor... It is the number one failure point... and properly done could offer a couple more DECADES of satisfactory performance. Robot Check Robot Check You will need a decent vacuum pump... these tools will PAY for THEM-SELVES. (look at them first... metric only confuses this old man) R134A Manifold Gauge Set

whats the problem? is it missing? change fuel filter as well

A torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec. Necessary tools to remove the head bolts. A gasket scraper for the rocker cover gasket and the head gasket.. If you have a blown head gasket the chances of a warped head is about 98%, so be prepared to have the head machined flat before reinstalling the head. You might want to do a valve job and replace the valve stem seals since you're going to remove the head. If you decide to do a valve job, you MUST do both heads or the engine will never run good.

This model is famous for defective ignition control switch, this is the switch that the ignition key operates via a long metal rod to near the base of the steering column. See photo of swich. Color may vary, black and white.

Have you done a filter and fluid change on it? It must include a cooler flush too. DO THAT FIRST!!!! ALWAYS. Do you know what trans you have in it? is it a 4x4? auto transmissions have constant friction and get very hot, so the cooler is very important. The filter and fluid needs to be changed as regular maintenance or it breaks down AND once the filter is holding all the metal particles, etc, it all just gets pumped back into the delicate transmission. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kim_3202917d7c587455

Check your Transmission Fluid. If it is low fill to the recommended level. If it smells burnt it is time for a Rebuild.

unless you have the codes read to find which sensors are not working then you will be just wasting money chasing your tail. Have the codes read and that will indicate where the problem/s lie.

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? Lee

Timing belt may be off a tooth. Lee

If there are no loose lines laying near it , It may have just had a vacuum cap on it .

could be just head gasket and bad exhaust manifold gasket (coolant leaks past head gasket into exhaust port then leaks out of exhaust manifold gasket)
or it possible that head is cracked too
Only way to know for sure is to remove head and inspect it

let it all leak out,then it will quit leaking. no check the trans lines, they may need replaced,or the seal is bad, when running pressure builds and helps to seal,nothing is easy,but get it checked before things get worse.

Probably you need new cable

Maybe. There may be a bypass in the block, but that would not affect the oil pressure switch.Odds are the pickup screen or pump is getting clogged up, or the switch just decided to start acting up.You can replace the switch, or hook up a mechanical gauge and see what the actual pressure is coming out of the port.