20 Most Recent 1988 Ford F 150 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

When you say, "will not start", does the starter turn the engine over, but no fire, just a click, nothing? Without some details, there are far too many possible things to begin.

You need to check and see if you are loosing fuel or spark when it dies. The easiest thing is to start with a fuel pressure gauge hooked to the fuel rail. Start the engine and watch the gauge, if it drops off before the engine dies then you know you need to look to the fuel system, if not....check the ignition system. you should also have around 40lbs of pressure for the system to operate correctly.

Look under the hood for a decal which shows the routing.

ford starters are subject to heat problems in the starter motor as they are close to the exhaust manifold There is a heat shield available from ford spares but I found it not to be all that effective The solution I found was to install an high performance stater ( used for modified engines) and there was no longer a problem

Check the ignition system with a timing light to see if you are getting spark to the plugs.

We really need to know more about what you are working with. There are a few thoughts that come to mind however. Not to insult but first check that wiring is in proper order. Next check for compression from each cylinder. This can easily be achieved by removing each spark plug in turn and holding a thumb over the hole. If there is air trying to push past your thumb you should have enough compression to at least get er to crank. Finally, set distributor where you think it ought to be, then with a helper turning the key slowly rotate the distributor clockwise, then counterclockwise. You won't be able to set the timing until you have it running.

it is getting to much gas more info is required full injected or has it got a carb

As it was done by a Pro shop take it back to them and ask them to put it right as it is faulty

On the trottlebody not exactly the same but it should help you out

The black soot would be unburned fuel the moisture would be condensation from engine not being at operating temperature. Do you still get moisture out of pipe after it is warmed up or just while it is warming up? Seeing it's a 1988 you should be able to make some adjustments to air or fuel mixture to make it run smoother and lose the black soot. Hope this helps.

probably the fuel pump selector under the truck gone bad.

Yes, check for any air restrictions that would hinder the engine's ability to breathe, the air filter, a dirty or carboned up throttle body, maybe the idle air passages need cleaning. Running rich means too little air or too much gas. You have throttle body injection? Observe the cone spray pattern of the gas out the bottom of the injectors. It should spray out in a fine mist cone pattern, landing on the throttle plate below it. You can observe with the engine idling and the air breather off. If you see any drips and not a cone pattern, the injectors need cleaning or replacing. Also observe when the engine is not running ,but just turned to ON: It should not show any drips. If it does, the injectors may be stuck partially open. Another possibility is a bad MAP sensor, reading out of range.

Bad ignition switch?

There are several possibilities for this problem. A "cold start" sequence is suppose to activate based on water temperature and the signal from the water temperature sensor. This makes the fuel rich and adjusts timing to make the engine run better when cold. It works like a choke only it is electronic. There may be 2 sensors with one making the dash gauges work and the other doing the engine controls. If not 2, then 1 sensor would do the whole job. Another possibility is an air leak in the fuel system which makes the system bleed dry overnight. It is far less common on gas engines but happens a lot on diesels. Some earlier Ford engines from 1984 to I don't know when they stopped on trucks, would use a step-up solenoid on the accelerator bracket that worked off water temperature. Sometimes a bad water thermostat would make the temperature controls malfunction the other way (High idle, clicking, low idle) that would stall and engine as the temperature vary.

Why do you feel it necessary to post your question twice?

Check ignition switch wiring and for internal problems.

Before doing anything make sure you have air in your spare..,A good Jack and spare tire removal kit....The kit should be under or behind the passenger seat..I don't like the factory Jack it comes with because sometimes you need a good strong block of wood to achieve the height you need to contact the vehicle..and sometimes they don't work correctly...Some spare tire release tools are under the hood..It is a long skinny rod ...You have to use rod or rod kit to stick through the rear bumper at the slot and turn the rod counterclockwise after you feel the rod connect with the release mechanism..,Lower the spare until it touches the ground then keep turning so you can have enough slack to remove cable from spare tire...Set parking brake while in park and use the lug nut removal tool to break loose the lug nuts before raising vehicle..They are removed counter clockwise..Don't take nuts off just break them loose...Block front wheels for safety with anything solid you can find if you are stranded..If you can't find anything rely on parking brake..It should be safe in park but safety first....Jack vehicle up..,remove all lug nuts put them in a safe clean place don't lose them..Remove flat tire..Install spare..Start each lug nut and tighten them all tight by hand..Snug each nut clockwise in a star pattern ..Get them good and tight but don't try to hurt yourself or break the stud...Lower vehicle,remove Jack..Snug each lug nut once again for safety..Put flat in truck bed for now rather than back in the spare storage area because it has to be repaired..Crank spare cable that held spare under truck clockwise until it stops.Remove tool..,Gather all tools used., remove blocks from front tires.,Head to a tire store...

There should be a diagram of the belt path on inside of the engine compartment. It will be on the under side of the hood or right by the latch.

ARE YOU SURE THE RIGHT THERMOSTAT WAS INSTALLED IT SHOULD BE FROM 180*-195* IF NOT THATS YOUR PROBLEM THERE COULD BE A 160* IN THERE AND THAT WON'T LET THE TRUCK GET HOT ENOUGH BECAUSE IT'S OPEN CONSTANTLY AND WILL NOT CLOSE TO BUILD UP A HIGH ENOUGH TEMPERATURE IF IT'S O.K.GO TO YOUR HEATER HOSES ON THE FIREWALL AND WITH THE TRUCK WARMED UP BY THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE GRAB YOUR HOSES ONE AT A TIME AND SEE IF YOU HAVE A HOT HOSE ON ONE SIDE AND A NO SO HOT ONE ON THE OTHER IF SO THE HEATER CORE IS CLOGGED IF BOTH SIDES ARE EQUALLY HOT THEN GO INSIDE TO THE HEATER CASE AND FIND THE CABLES THAT MAKE THE HEATER DOORS OPEN ONE OF THEM COULD HAVE BROKEN LEAVING THE DOOR OPEN IN THE COLD POSITION OR THE FRESH AIR DOOR FOR OUTSIDE IS OPEN I'M CONFUSED BY WHAT YOU HAVE WRITTEN SOME WHAT SO POST BACK WITH SPECIFICS ON WHAT YOU HAVE DONE,BUT HERE'S A PHOTO OF THE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR THE LEVER THAT CONNECTS TO THIS WILL OPEN AND CLOSE THE BLEND DOOR TO CHANGE THE COLD AIR TO HOT TRY GRABBING IT AND PULLING IT BACK OR PUSHING IN IT DEPENDS IT COULD BE STUCK IN EITHER POSITION WHEN THE DIAPHRAM INSIDE BLEW OUT OR THE HOSE THAR CNNECTS TO IT MAY BE BROKEN GOOD LUCK AND POST BACK WITH RESULTS STEPHEN

Starter. Alternator just charges the battery.