20 Most Recent 2005 Ford F 350 Super Duty - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Still sounds like there is a fuel issue. I would check the obvious. Check the Air filter and fuel filter and water seperator. Debris could have gotten into the new injector, which also could have upset the other injector. Get the exact code from the dealer your truck experianced.

Check that the filter is not leaking

Check for correct coolant mixture. Also you could have a thermostat that is stuck completely open causing it to flow straight threw the engine block, cylinder heads, heater core, an radiator without stopping long enough to heat the coolant up to provide cab heat. It could also be a clogged heater core. Or a blend door on the HVAC box that is not allowing the heater core door to open. Hope this helps.

dies the truck restart once it cools off? it is very common for th 6.0 to have high pressure oil issues on a hot soak. they will run till the cows come home but once shut off they can not build up enough pressure by cranking speed alone to start truck until it cools down and the seals become rigid enough to bridge the gaps they are sealing in the first please. if this is the case. it may be the STC fitting ojn the back of the high pressure oil pump (intake and turbos must be removed to check) or possibly the branch tube o rings have worn. the branch tubes are located under the valve covers and supply the fuel injectors the oil they need to perform their "power stroke"...

Check your owners manual for a description of icon. May indicate some type of specific service is suggested. The Amber lite is usually an alert. Red lite would indicate repair needed. Once you understand description if you need more assistance, please refine your question. Every bit of info is helpful.

where is what controller ,best bet here is a direct question to emmisionwiz as hes a ford a dealer fitter and will know for sure

problem could be in temperature blend door switch or faulty blend door actuator.

check the relay and the bulb

check thickness of washer(s) with what you pulled off. if not the same that could be your issue. you may have to find the proper thickness washer to get things to line up.

Not exactly.According to the wiring diagrams, the heated seats are controlled by several fuses and two modules, plus two relays, along with input from the HVAC module. There is a module and a relay for each seat heater.The mirrors are controlled by several other fuses and modules.You may need a shop manual to trace the circuits.All of the fuses involved are in the box in the engine compartment.

change the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor - air filter and fuel filter. Also, once it's started and at operating temp - pull the vacuum line off the distributor (if equipped) and put a timing light on it. If it needs timed, do so with the vacuum line off - once it's set to where it should be, re-connect the vacuum line and adjust idle as needed.

After this, fill up the tank, (one of if two) and poor 3/4 can of SeaFoam in the tank. Pull any and all vacuum lines and insert them into the can - (hold idle up with hand or have someone help to prevent truck from dying). Run through the entire tank, and refill with desired grade fuel you usually use.

Also, make sure you have no exhaust leaks at the manifold, intake, catalytic converter, or muffler.

The catalytic converter may need to be checked as well, as if it's plugged it will suppress the engine exhaust.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @Fixya.com

You will have to take the screws out and panel on your dashboard. Before doing anything though, unhook your battery so as not to short out the system

Not understanding what your asking. But was having a similar problem.Engine was cranking but wont start.I found out that the battery volts were to low.Changed batteries and there she goes started right up.

is it a diesel engine? if so its a warning that the glow plugs havnt heated to temp yet. therefore telling you it's not ready to drive yet. if so and you never had this problem before then you may have some glow plugs that need changed, or voltage is lower not allowing them to heat up as quickly as they did before

I've never heard of that. It kinda seems like you might be seeing the low tire pressure light which has a deflated tire with an apostrophe in it.