20 Most Recent 2003 Ford Windstar - Page 9 Questions & Answers

check radio fuses with the ignition switch in the accessories or run position

Check this fixya question for diagrams: http://www.fixya.com/cars/t9154097-need_2002_ford_windstar_central_junction I'm pretty sure 2001-2003 use the same fuse box. 2003 Windstars only came with 3.8L engines I believe you are looking for fuse #5 and relay #207

If this means the air intake sensor (usually called the intake air temp = IAT) it is usually in the air filter box or the hose leading to the throttle body.

Stay out of the Burmuda triangle. :) (It's getting late 5:AM) check for a bad ground on the instrument cluster in the dash. Good luck. Jeff M.

watch this video http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2002_Ford_Windstar_SEL_3.8L_V6/hood/open_the_hood If the handle is just broken use pliers to pull the cable that hooks to the handle. If the cable is broken you will have to work through the grill. You will see on the drivers side of the hood latch where the cable enters. You can remove the cable holding bolt if applicable and pull the cable there. If all that fails you will have to remove teh latch by removing the 2 screws on both sides of the latch.

the motors that opperate these windows are known for sticking or going bad the only fix i know of is to replace the motors.

The reason is that OBD (On Board Diagnostic Codes)
set a light on your dash

You retrieve the code
You look up the code

The code directs you to one
of your vehicles systems with a malfunction
The malfunction usually will be a sensor out of range

Where you went wrong ,was to believe that the vehicle
self diagnoses it's self

Seldom is the out of range sensor the problem
You have to component test, to find out why the
code was set.
You could have gotten lucky with the cam sensor,
but it doesn't work that way.

Not to be hurtful in any way,but very few people can
work on a car in their driveway anymore
You need basic electricity and system knowledge

If you intend to stay with it yourself you will need to
study other web sites and the causes of the codes
you get.

Without any testing,the use of a meter,scan tool or an
oscilloscope, your at a near impossible disadvantage
in terms of sucess

It could either be on the flange where the oil filter screws on or it might on top of the engine block at one end or the other. It won't be anywhere in the middle. If you don't know what it looks like, It will be screwed into where ever it is. It will be metal on the bottom to 1/2 way up where it becomes black plastic. At the middle where the metal and plastic meet, it will look like it will take a kind of large funky looking socket to remove it. If you can swing a pair of channel locks in there, and if you are careful; you won't have to buy a socket that you'll probably never use again. At the top of the plastic half, there will be either a slip-on connector or possibly a nut holding a wire onto the unit. It only needs one wire as it goes to ground when activated. good luck. Jeff M.

Is the problem the thermostat, or is the heater control blend door not diverting the blower air across the heater core....or is the heater core clogged? The thermostat is actually the least likely cause of cool air in the passenger compartment.

Right on the base of the starter. You will most likely need an extension bit for your ratchet to get to them.

its probably a bad switch and if there all in there together which more than likely they are you have to buy that whole set of switches about a 100 dollars i think

if you can get your hands up in there you should be able to depending on your clearence

check wires from the bulb may have a bad spot also check bulb for corrosion in socket also

Check throttle position switch, fuel pressure filter etc.

Open the hood. the master is on the drivers side. Remove the 2 brake lines. remove the 2 nuts holding it to the booster. Follow the instructions with the new master to bench bleed it, then install it. Then you need to bleed the entire system. Remove the tires and crack open the bleed valve, close it back. have some one pump and hold the brake pedal, release the valve, then close it. Do this three or four times to rid the system of air. Check the master after every tire and fill as necessary.

It depends if you have the rear air shocks or not. If not, it's just a single bolt at the top and single bolt at the bottom that holds them on. If it's the air shock, your better off taking it to a shop to have them do the work.

you have to compress the spring to remove the strut

could that not Be HTR ? thats a fault inthe O2 sensor heater

replace the brake lit switch is located at the middle section of brake pedal

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