20 Most Recent 2003 Ford E150 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Back cylinder on the drivers side.

Driver's side front.

Who told you you didn't have plugs? I wouldn't take your van there again. I will help you find the problem. Trace the plug wires and pull the plugs and inspect them thoroughly. I promise you have plugs. If they look bad replace them. If this doesn't solve it e-mail me at [email protected] and I will help you until your vehicle is running, and done as cheap as possible, I promise.

First, congratulations on owning what was considered one of the worst vehicles ever to come off the assembly line - I personally think you are in possession of an extremely classic vehicle. Please don't pry on the hood. Go up under the front of the car and reach up until you feel the hood latch mechanism, you should be able to trip the hood latch mechanism with your hand or a pair of pliers. Once the hood trips you should be able to open it normally. Good luck on finding a replacement cable.

Cylinder #5 is the front cylinder on the drivers side, and here is a firing order diagram to help assist you.

Under engine you will locate the OIL pan which is solid metal and you will notice Under OIL pan is a 17MM Bolt
Remove that to drain oil
Oil drain may take up to 45 Mins to fully drain

if it is leaking from the front of the diff where the drive line goes into it you have to drop the rear of the drive shaft from the diff, if you look at the flange on the diff where the driveshaft bolted to you will see a nut, possibly about 25 to 30mm, you have to remove the nut and remove the flange off the spline of the input shaft of the diff, the nut is really tight and it is difficult to get enough pressure on the nut to "crack it" while the car is on the ground as there is not enough room to get a long bar on the socket to remove the nut. if you happen to get the nut loose and you remove the flange get a big screwdriver and pry the seal out of the diff, check the surface where the seal ran on the input shaft as it may have a groove worn into it, if it has the groove the new seal will still leak, they make a sleeve you can slide over the shaft to give the seal a good surface to run on, we call them a speedy sleeve here but not sure what they may call them there. replace everything in the reverse order that you removed it and don't forget to tension the big nut that holds the flange onto the input shaft

Ford does not put fuse designations on the fuse holder covers any more,you can only find it in the owners manual.If you don't have one then you need to go to Ford and get one,it will come in handy in the future if you plan on keeping the truck.

on the passenger side under the air filter compartment

the passenger side is easy and be patient
the driver side more patients take the black pipe air filter intake
remove the power steering braket 3 bolts 8mm if you have the egr valve remove it too just make sure that you have room on the driver side loosen the fuel rail but dont have to remove completely just move out of the way
after all this you will have plenty of space just remember to lube the injector seal and clean around before you out injector rail back some wd40 would do the trick replace the coil boots those need to be replaced anyways good luck

Do you have a good ground, and are there any noises when trying to start it?

The EGR needs replaced.

Try Autozone if you already have the code(s) out of the computer. They will also do free scans of the computer if you don't have them. Good luck!

with a test light check the fuse panel. If all fuses are good, then check the connector on the transmission.

email me at [email protected] and include all the info about the truck(yr, mk, model, eng., etc).

IT DEPENDS ON IF YOU HAVE A E4OD, OR A 4R100, PRICE TO REBUILD FROM 1750 TO 2200

Try looking thru the fender well on the driver's side and it should be visible. Single wire push on connector usually elbowed.