20 Most Recent 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Only between the engine and transmission. It is a hose or heater core.

The problem could be anything from a power steering hose has leaked out all the power steering fluid or the steering rack could be leaking fluid. Has the car made any strange noises when turning the steering wheel? A car that is loosing power steering fluid will at some point lose so much fluid as to make the power steering pump cavitate (starve for fluid) and the pump will make a high pitched noise when it has too little fluid in it. I can't remember if the 1996 ranger had only one belt on the engine or if the power steering has it own seperate belt. The belt being gone would prevent the power steering from working but if you only have one belt the car would also overheat.

It could be a plugged fuel filter

Check for worn bearings in the power steering pump where the drive belt pulley attaches to the pump shaft.

You have a wire that is grounding out some where. Check the battery cables and make sure they are tight on both ends and no nicks or cuts where they contact the car body or engine. Also check the starter and make sure that it is tight and nothing is touching the solenoid where the battery cable is connected.

You could have a bad wire going to the sensor or the PCM is not configured to the tire size that you have on the truck. So if you have put bigger tires on you truck, it may be causing the problem. I hope this helps you locate the problem

The easiest way is to title a search for "1996 Ford Ranger Supercab fuse diagrams". Usually many good hits will be produced on a Browser result.

My guess would be weak fuel pump

The valve covers installed on the 3.0L engine incorporate integral (built in) gaskets which should last the life of the vehicle. Replacement gaskets are available if required.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs, but leave them attached to their wire looms.
2. Remove the ignition wire separators from the rocker arm cover attaching bolt studs with the wires attached, then lay the wires out of the way.
3. If the left hand cover is being removed, remove the throttle body assembly, the PCV valve and fuel injector harness stand-offs. If the right hand cover is being removed, remove the engine harness connectors, fuel injector harness stand-offs and air cleaner closure hose from the oil fill adapter.
4. Using caution, slide a sharp thin blade knife between the cylinder head gasket surface and the valve cover gasket at the four RTV junctions. CUT ONLY THE RTV SEALER AND AVOID CUTTING THE INTEGRAL GASKET.
5. Remove the integral gasket from the valve cover gasket channel. Note bolt/stud fasteners locations before removing gasket for correct installation. Clean gasket channel and remove any traces of RTV sealant.

To install:

1. Align fastener holes, lay new gasket onto channel and install by hand. Install gasket to each fastener, seat fastener against cover and at the same time roll gasket around fastener collar. If installed correctly all fasteners will be secured by gasket and not fall out.
2. Install valve cover to the engine, lightly oil all bolts and stud threads. Apply a bead of RTV sealant at the cylinder head to intake manifold rail step (two places per rail).
3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and install attaching bolts and studs. Tighten the attaching bolts to specifications.

Fig. Fig. 3: Rocker arm cover installation on 3.0L engines

1. Install all remaining components in reverse order of removal procedure. Connect the ignition wires to the spark plugs and reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and run to normal operating temperature, then check for oil and vacuum leaks.

Unbolt the slave cylinder and bleed it unbolted from the trans with the bleeder up. Then bolt it back on.

The air bag issue locks out the starting system Deployed or not the computer thinks it is.

2008 Ford Ranger no heat. I replaced the "Air Door Actuator", located behind the glove box. It is a small unit measuring approximately 4"x4"x1". The heat loss seemed to be sudden, making me think that a fuse may have blown. My research led to the "Air Door Actuator". I was getting full cold for the AC, but could not adjust the temperature. The air remained cold with the temperature control knob turned to full heat. To replace, remove the multi pin connector, remove three screws and the unit will now be free. The two front screws are easy to access, but the one screw behind the unit is not so easy to get to and is tricky to reinstall since space is very tight. A low profile, 1/4" drive, long handle ratchet is best. Also tape a length of string as a tether to your ratchet since you will likely drop the tool behind the unit, like I did. I also used a small, telescoping mirror and LED flash light to see behind the unit.

If it's a standard transmission it could be you clutch slave or your clutch is worn enough to no disengage.

PCM is short for Powertrain Control Module, AKA the brain box

Maybe it doesn't have one. If it does you can follow the heavy spark plug wire back to it from any plug. If there r no heavy wires it doesn't have a distributor. The distribution is via the computer.